The chicken and the egg. . .

[Matt Radtke]

Or in this case, the benchtop or the square lumber to build it.

I started down the neander path specifically because I don't have and don't want a powered jointer or planer. After futzing with other tools, topics, a new daughter, and trying to plane on my workmate (too light) and "homeowners" bench (not flat enough, top mounted vise in the way), the time came to start building my handtool bench. I've got the under carriage 90% done and should have it put together this weekend.

Time to start wood shopping for the top.

I'm cheap, which to me means buying either SYP or rough-sawn maple (or similar of each.) The problem I'm having wrapping my head around is how to get some nice, square pieces of lumber without a bench to plane on.

I've got a good arsenel of bench planes, a table saw, workbench base, and a willingness to build a temporary top to get me to my real top. How do I get there? Woodworking MacGyver tricks certainly welcome.

[Sean Hughto]

Between your bench planes and yyour table saw, you should have no problems. Buy wide board (e.g., SYP 2x12") and use your saw to rip them down to 3" widths while cutting off the rounded stock edges. If the faces need attention, bring your hand planes to bear. Your going to need some glue and a bunch of clamps too. Glue up only a stick or two at a time - and whent eh glue has set in like 2 hours, add another one or two until you get to the top width you desire.

You'll then need to flatten the faces with your handplanes.

What'cha thinking for vises and dog holes?

[Matt Radtke]

You'll then need to flatten the faces with your handplanes.


Of course. I'm just having problems figuring out the where I'll be doing that part. I don't have a good reference/work surface to get those faces flat enough, unless I'm missing a obvious trick.



What'cha thinking for vises and dog holes?

Square dogs and a wagon vise, unless my mind gets blown by something sufficiently more-betterer in the very near future.

[Sean Hughto]

As far as flattening, if the stock is already at least 2S2 (has had it's wide faces run through a planer), you shouldn't have too much to do. Pick boards that are as straight as possible, and even if they bow somewhat, as you clamp and glue them together those with mild bows will be constrained by the others around them. You want to just reject boards with any significant twist. You are cutting the pieces from wider stock, so you should also not have to worry much about cupping.

Cobling together a temporary flattening station shouldn't be too hard. Some 2 x 4s and a plywood top with a planing stop screwed to it. Put one end against a wall and plane in that direction, and the thing should stay realtively still and stable.

[harry strasil]

A pair of saw horses, leveled by shimming the feet will give you a means of glueing up a nice flat top. put the top side of your boards down, and wrap the sawhorse tops with saran wrap to keep the glue from sticking to the saw horse tops. Use a quality level to level them with, and put some temporary strechers between them to keep them from moving.

[Jim Koepke]

I once saw a Japanese wood worker who had built a "bench" only for planing. It was basically a long beam with a planing stop on one end.

An 8 or 10 foot long 4X4 would likely do the job with a sturdy base underneath. Maybe attach it temporarily to your base.

jim

[Sean Hughto]

Good idea, Jim. I forgot he already will have a base!

[Matt Radtke]

An 8 or 10 foot long 4X4 would likely do the job with a sturdy base underneath. Maybe attach it temporarily to your base.


Now why didn't I think of that? I even have a 8' 4x4 in the basement.

[Eric Brown]

Follow Jr's advice and glue it together upside down. Just make sure that your supports are straight and level with each other. Look across like winding sticks. You can use almost any solid support for truing the edges. Don't worry about the board flexing. Just make sure your boards are thick enough in the first place. If you make them so thin in thickness that they do flex it will not make a good bench. Also, make sure your lumber is dried in your shop for a few weeks/months/years before cutting. This would reduce the amount of shrinkage and possible opening up at the ends. You can also plane a slight hollow the length of the boards to ensure better seams.

Eric