Band Saw on Steroids

[james bell]

After receiving numerous suggestions on my old bandsaw - 1970's Craftsman 12", 1/2HP, I went ahead and souped her up. My MM16 is great, but I have started playing around with bandsaw boxes and needed tighter turning radii than the MM16 could do. However the 1/2HP just could not get through thick wood.

I first installed a Carter stablizer and then a 1 1/2HP Grizzly motor. The fan belt is a little loose but even under load doesn't slip (next purchase will be the link belt). I cut through a 6" block of coffeewood with ease - only problem was the the 1/16" blade got dirty and literally burned through the cuts, not slowing down. Next time I smell/see anything I will clean the blade. But what a wonder to cut. Sure was a lot less expensive than a new BS.

Until I blogged on this forum, it never occured to me that I could up the HP - thanks ...

[Karl Card]

i have a 14 inch bandsaw with a 3/4 hp motor and would love to run it with a 2hp on it. I just wonder if the rpm's are the same will the difference in torque hurt anything? Alot of difference in money bs vs. new motor..

[mickey cassiba]

I put a 2HP on my 14" and haven't had any problems. I also robbed a set of step pulleys(5 step) so I have the option of changing speeds. Had to cut the cabinet base to accommodate the outside steps, but it works good.
Mick

[Larry Fox]

My MM16 is great, but I have started playing around with bandsaw boxes and needed tighter turning radii than the MM16 could do.

I am interested in this part. What won't the MM16 do that the Craftsman will?

[Rick Moyer]

How do you like the stabilizer? Often thought about purchasing. Have watched the demos. I assume you need their guides first to use the stabilizer?

[Phil Phelps]

I cut through a 6" block of coffeewood with ease - only problem was the the 1/16" blade got dirty and literally burned through the cuts, not slowing down.
...

Is the blade size a typo?

[Pete Bradley]

If you're really running a 1/16" (more likely 1/8") band, the only way to get it through a 6" block of wood will be to burn it through with excessive horsepower. Get yourself a 3/16 X 4TPI and you could use the original motor with no burning.

[Van Huskey]

Is the blade size a typo?

I use a 1/16 once in a blue moon but never on anything that thick, I would have used a 1/8" as I know this is doable, I have cut cones from 6" walnut so it is atleast equal to 7-8" wood with a 1/8" blade.

[Mike Cruz]

There is no problem upping your band saw to a 1 1/2 or 2 HP motor. As long as you get a motor with the same rpm (likey 1725). Don't get a 3450, that is for TS's, etc.

Also your MM16 can do anything your Craftsman can do (even better). You just have to have a smaller blade on your MM16. Don't get me wrong, I fully understand the want/need/desire for two BS's with different blade sizes...

[james bell]

The carter stablizer works great and you do not require or even use guides. i tried a 1/4" blade on it, and it seems to be too wide to work
well, at least in my initial attempt. The 1/16" works very well and can
get tight turns. Next time I will only use it on these type turns, and use 1/8 or 3/16 (just purchased a number of them) for the less agressive curves.

The MM16 won't handle the 1/16 or 1/8, although somebody comments previously that with replacement guides, you can get either a 3/16 or 1/4 blade to work - I decided to put the money into a new motor.

I had a 1 hp 3450 rpm motor, but could not double the slave pulley (needed to go 10") or get a smaller feed pulley, and the price difference between the 1 hp and the 1/5 hp motor was minimal. grizzly did have the best prices here.

I was concerned on what would happen with increased hp, but if the rpms are the same, no problem.

This was a great and fairly inexpensive way to get a powerful bandsaw which is more flexible than my mm16. if you don't have a sears 12", i have seen them advertised on craigs list for less than $75.

i have just purchased a book on bandsaw boxes and now ready to start playing (especially with a new supply of blades).

[Kirk Poore]

The main problem with cutting something that thick is you need fewer teeth in the cut. Fewer teeth generally means larger teeth, with gullets that are bigger and don't clog up with sawdust as fast. Larger teeth mean a wider blade. Unless you're doing some tight curves, for something that thick you probably should have a 3/8" or 1/2" wide blade, maybe 3 tpi.

Kirk

[james bell]

Fully agree on the fewer TPI the better for not clogging. However, being dumb I went ahead and cut everything using the 1/16 blade with a high tpi count - thus the clogging/burning.

Next time hopefully i will be smarter, but I was impressed with the power generated by the new motor, just made for a lot of sanding! I did purchase a number of narrow blades with low tpi.

I am surprised that my belt did not slip, since there is some play due to the motor mount being off some with the larger motor. Does anybody have experience with the link-belts?