Salem Ganzhorn
01-11-2010, 8:49 PM
Here is my version of the Eagle Lake Woodworking sled
(http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx) Top view:
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6039.sized.jpg
Bottom view (dado's are 5/8th, through holes are 3/8):
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6040.sized.jpg
The first runner is dado'd in (very, very shallow) as per Alan In Little Washington's advice:
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6044.sized.jpg
Setup for crosscut:
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6042.sized.jpg
The hold downs are bandsawn out of maple:
(http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=42644)
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6043.sized.jpg
Setup for miter (note the plastic square will be removed before the cut):
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6041.sized.jpg
It turned out very nice. There is no slop in the runners (UHMW PE). And using the 5 cut method it was only off .016 in over 60" of cut (off by .015 degrees http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif). I really, really like the design of the sliding clamps on this sled. They are very fast to lock down/release and hold the work very stable. Really great when the stock is very long or very short.
The only thing I would change is the material used for the sliding clamps. I used MDF and it is really too weak where I routed out the long 3/8 through hole. But this only really matters when using the back edge to set an angle referenced off the fence. Just have to be careful.
I still have to make stop blocks, put a block of wood where the blade exits the fence and add a mechanism to make sure the sled is not pushed too far. The left hand edge of the sled is flush with the edge of my saw so I will bolt a piece of wood onto the saw wing and a matching piece on the edge of the sled to set the maximum depth.
I pretty much stuck to the plan with a few exceptions:
1) I did not add the handle and I don't think I will.
2) I did not cut big through holes in the slots. 3/4" as in the plans is not big enough and I don't think they are really needed.
3) I used 3/4" ply instead of 1/2" ply. It is what I had http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif.
I will probably also build their tenoning jig that rides on the sled. If you need a new sled check out EagleLake's plans and video.
Salem
(http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx) Top view:
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6039.sized.jpg
Bottom view (dado's are 5/8th, through holes are 3/8):
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6040.sized.jpg
The first runner is dado'd in (very, very shallow) as per Alan In Little Washington's advice:
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6044.sized.jpg
Setup for crosscut:
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6042.sized.jpg
The hold downs are bandsawn out of maple:
(http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=42644)
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6043.sized.jpg
Setup for miter (note the plastic square will be removed before the cut):
http://photos.ganzhorn.org/albums/album764/69CG6041.sized.jpg
It turned out very nice. There is no slop in the runners (UHMW PE). And using the 5 cut method it was only off .016 in over 60" of cut (off by .015 degrees http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif). I really, really like the design of the sliding clamps on this sled. They are very fast to lock down/release and hold the work very stable. Really great when the stock is very long or very short.
The only thing I would change is the material used for the sliding clamps. I used MDF and it is really too weak where I routed out the long 3/8 through hole. But this only really matters when using the back edge to set an angle referenced off the fence. Just have to be careful.
I still have to make stop blocks, put a block of wood where the blade exits the fence and add a mechanism to make sure the sled is not pushed too far. The left hand edge of the sled is flush with the edge of my saw so I will bolt a piece of wood onto the saw wing and a matching piece on the edge of the sled to set the maximum depth.
I pretty much stuck to the plan with a few exceptions:
1) I did not add the handle and I don't think I will.
2) I did not cut big through holes in the slots. 3/4" as in the plans is not big enough and I don't think they are really needed.
3) I used 3/4" ply instead of 1/2" ply. It is what I had http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif.
I will probably also build their tenoning jig that rides on the sled. If you need a new sled check out EagleLake's plans and video.
Salem