Hollowing Rig Advice for Newbie

[Bob Wolfe]

Hello All, I'm trying to find out some information about building a captured hollowing rig for a jet 1220. I intend to turn hollow forms no larger than 8" dia and no taller than 8" (one or the other but not an 8" x 8" form). I've read an old article that is at many sights about a man who built one for a mini lathe using 1/2" black water pipe. I don't have access to a welder so this concept is right down my alley. The author said that he was having the system tested by a fellow turner, but I can't seem to find where any test results were reported. If you know about this system test results or if you have built a rig like this I would really like to know how it handled the vibration. Additionally, what, if anything, would you do different if you were to build another one? Perhaps I can learn a thing or two from your mistakes.

I know that there are several systems out there that people rave about (I've been scouring old posts before I asked) and if I had the extra cash I would seriously consider one, but right now it's just not going to happen. I have seen a few rigs on the net that were built with steel rods and bars, but this kind of metalwork is not within my capabilities. I want to build one myself if possible, but I want to make sure I build it right the first time. Thanks for your help.

[Thomas Canfield]

Bob,
A member in our turning club posted this:

http://www.easttexaswoodturners.org/Tips-Boring%20rig.pdf

It can be done without welding.

[Allen Neighbors]

Bob,
I made this one a couple of years ago. I've since made a few modifications to it, but it worked the way it was. The best mod was to change ways bracket to only one nut, instead of the two that are visible in Pic 1.
One of the mods was the addition of the laser (pic 2) and brazing nuts onto where the set screws are in pic three. (You can see the brazed nuts also in Pic 2)
I had the rectangular anti-torque gizmo welded together. But the entire thing could be made out of Black Pipe, using common fittings.
Al

[Bob Wolfe]

Thomas and Allen, thank you both for the quick replies. Both were very helpful and full of good ideas. I see that it can be built with hollow stock.

Allen, since you made your D-bar from square tube instead of a solid material, does it beat you up at all when you are using it? The original design I saw mentioned that the rest and the D-bar were made out of round material and there was very little contact, add a little wax and it moved like it was gliding on air. It doesn't have to be that smooth, but I don't want it to be difficult to slide or for it to just beat & bang and shake me to death.

Final question, as I'm planning on building it no larger than I need it to (small workspace) is the longer end of the captive rest supposed to on the turner's side of the lathe or on the far side and how large should it be? Thanks again for the assistance.
Bob

[Bill Bolen]

Bob, here is a link to a how-to on building a articulated system by a friend of mine. Very similar to the great Monster system..Bill..
http://www.woodturnersresource.com/extras/projects/Steel-snake.pdf

[Allen Neighbors]

Thomas and Allen, thank you both for the quick replies. Both were very helpful and full of good ideas. I see that it can be built with hollow stock.

Allen, since you made your D-bar from square tube instead of a solid material, does it beat you up at all when you are using it? The original design I saw mentioned that the rest and the D-bar were made out of round material and there was very little contact, add a little wax and it moved like it was gliding on air. It doesn't have to be that smooth, but I don't want it to be difficult to slide or for it to just beat & bang and shake me to death. The D-bar slides between the rest bars (I made longer ones) like it's greased... I used that slick plastic tape (mdhw, or something like that, from Woodcraft) I lined the upper and lower slides with it. Using the bolts that hold the square tubing apart, I adjusted it so there is no play at all. It slides smoothly.

Final question, as I'm planning on building it no larger than I need it to (small workspace) is the longer end of the captive rest supposed to on the turner's side of the lathe or on the far side and how large should it be? The last modification I made on mine... the base, that rests on the ways is mounted with only one bracket, between the ways, and (if you look at the photo) I used the near side bolt, (I also replaced the base)...so the base is longer on the off side of the lathe... so if I'm turning a hollowform with a wide shoulder, I can swing that long side toward the headstock, and it allows me to "go where I've never gone before"....
Thanks again for the assistance.
Bob
If you'll email me, I'll try to get some current pics of the system, so you can see it with the end swung forward. amneighborsATSIGNsbcglobal.net
Hope this is more clear than mud... :D

[Bob Wolfe]

Al, I sent you an email...Thanks

[Bob Wolfe]

Bill, That is one fine looking rig for sure. If memory serves, you made one very similar some time ago except the mount was different. I read a lot of advice in the last week where the experienced turners were saying that for a first hollowing system to start out with a captured bar type system instead of the articulated arms or steel snakes. Perhaps someday I will consider an upgrade. I am filing your instructions away for now though. Thanks