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View Full Version : Please share pics of your tablesaw outfeed tables.



Dan Forman
01-08-2010, 8:47 PM
I need to build a permanent (non folding) tablesaw outfeed table for my Unisaw, and would like to utilize the space below for storage, either drawers or shelves. I'm thinking about 5 feet wide, and 30" deep. The 30" depth is about as much as I would want to encroach upon my workbench. The extra width would allow me to use it for assembly as well.

I thought about a folding option, but it seems it would always be in the way if I needed to get at whatever was stored underneath, and I REALLY need convenient storage space. I might consider a folding section directly in front of the saw table (minus wings), which could be utilized if the need would arise, and would only compromise a portion of the storage space.

I don't have much experience with designing this sort of thing, so pictures showing support/storage details would be most helpful. Thanks.

Dan

Van Huskey
01-08-2010, 8:55 PM
Have you looked at Marc "thewoodwhisperer"'s version it is simple easy and cheap (if you don't use walniut plywood). I haven't got around to it but plan on basing mine on it with more than just a simple shelf for storage.

Scott Hildenbrand
01-08-2010, 9:12 PM
When possible, re-purpose.

Hit up your local thrift, goodwill, restore or salvation store.

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/images/Shop/Outfeed_Table.jpg

Dan Friedrichs
01-08-2010, 9:20 PM
I never understood the need for such wide outfeed tables. At least for me, it's rare to cut such wide pieces at the TS. I have a table that is 30" wide, and 6' long butted up to my TS. If you think about it, you only need to support a little over half the width of a piece being cut - so with a 30" wide table, you can support a 60" piece being cut.

Zach England
01-08-2010, 10:23 PM
My space is tight, so mine doubles as the workbench. Between the bench top and table saw there is a piece of plywood with dadoes cut in it to allow the miter gauge to be pushed all the way beyond the blade.

"Gary Smith"
01-08-2010, 10:27 PM
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e98/oaksmith/Finished%20Shop/IMG_0476.jpg

Van Huskey
01-08-2010, 10:33 PM
My space is tight, so mine doubles as the workbench. Between the bench top and table saw there is a piece of plywood with dadoes cut in it to allow the miter gauge to be pushed all the way beyond the blade.


I think that is the reason most are larger than "needed". Mine is 4x8 (top is a sheet of MDF) I actually have it set so it is 8 feet wide, super overkill but takes up less usable floor space. Then when I use it as a workbench I have a 4x8 sheet of hardboard that is held in place with 4 pins to keep the table clean.

"Gary Smith"
01-08-2010, 10:33 PM
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e98/oaksmith/Finished%20Shop/IMG_0475.jpg

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 1:41 AM
Van---I had seen that, but would like better storage capacity. I have some cheap 8/4 soft maple lumber for legs and support, so was thinking of using that rather than all ply. Not yet sure if I want doors, drawers, or open shelving.

Scott---Dude, that's cheatin! A great solution though, maybe I should make a run to the thrift shops. I've been uderwhelmed by what I've seen in the local Habitat store, but maybe the thrift shops will have better quality and prices. Sure would save a lot of work.

Dan--- As I said, assembly and storage.

Gary---That's a beautiful shop, love the paint colors.

Here is the area I have to work with. I might only go 4 feet wide, which let me keep the trash can where it is now, which is a pretty handy location for the rest of the shop too. I have 66" from saw to the workbench, which would give me 3 feet of space between them with the new table, which I think is workable.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1020422.jpg

As soon as I finish the outfeed, I want to make a new extension table with storage under it as well, to replace the Delta one which had a pretty good hump in it.

Please keep the suggestions and pictures coming.

Dan

Dave Cav
01-09-2010, 1:57 AM
The 12/14 and the Unisaw share the same table. Under the side table is a rack holding small sheet stock cutoffs. Under the outfeed table is a rolling bin holding longer usable wood off rips and cutoffs too short or small to go on the lumber rack.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t317/sunshinenight/Unisaw/resized_DSCF0956.jpg

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t317/sunshinenight/Unisaw/resized_DSCF0958.jpg

Peter Aeschliman
01-09-2010, 3:52 AM
Wow, Dan! that is quite a tricked out table saw!

I wish I could help you with the outfeed table, but mine folds down with a piano hinge to save space.

I know this is somewhat if a hijack, but can you tell me about your overarm system? I'm thinking about making my own that hangs from the ceiling just like yours.

Thanks!

James Williams 007
01-09-2010, 4:25 AM
I purchased the top at a scratch and dent sale and made the base out of basic 4x4's and plywood that I had laying around. I use for glue ups and now I store a ton of jigs and other things on it. I can roll it around the shop as needed too. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=95844

dan sherman
01-09-2010, 4:30 AM
I don't have an outfeed table to show, as my saw has to stay mobile because my shop is a working 2 car garage. I have spent a great deal of time thinking about what I'm going to do when I get a bigger shop though. :D

I would go with 4' wide, as that would let you rip a sheet of plywood and have it fully supported. I would go with drawers, or cabinets, as they will keep stray sawdust of their contents. I hate getting out a tool, and then having to blow off the saw dust. The only other thing I would recommend would be to incorporate a power strip, as you can never have enough of those either.



Here is the area I have to work with. I might only go 4 feet wide, which let me keep the trash can where it is now, which is a pretty handy location for the rest of the shop too. I have 66" from saw to the workbench, which would give me 3 feet of space between them with the new table, which I think is workable.

Cliff Holmes
01-09-2010, 5:21 AM
http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/images/Shop/Outfeed_Table.jpg

Are your eyes that bad or do you need to identify drawer contents from 50 feet away? :D

Joshua Easter
01-09-2010, 5:57 AM
Hey Dan how do you like that Incra fence system? Pro's & Con's.

Cheers,


Josh

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 7:00 AM
Wow, Dan! that is quite a tricked out table saw!

I wish I could help you with the outfeed table, but mine folds down with a piano hinge to save space.

I know this is somewhat if a hijack, but can you tell me about your overarm system? I'm thinking about making my own that hangs from the ceiling just like yours.

Thanks!

Here is a thread about it. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=47890&highlight=overhead+guard

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 7:07 AM
Are your eyes that bad or do you need to identify drawer contents from 50 feet away? :D

Sometimes we just need a little clarity. One of my favorite Far Side cartoons:
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/far-side007.jpg

Dan

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 8:05 AM
Hey Dan how do you like that Incra fence system? Pro's & Con's.

Cheers,
Josh

Josh---It's pretty new, haven't had a chance to do much with it yet, got hijacked by the lathe over Christmas, lopped off part of a fingertip with a chisel which is just about healed up but still very sensitive. This outfeed table will be my first project with it.

Pros: The face is dead flat - dial indicator doesn't move when running along it - much flatter than the Unifence it replaced. I can set it for 1/8" and it will cut a strip .125". You can literally set it to rip to the thousandth of an inch. Handy for cutting splines, grooves, dados, etc.

I can rip up to 50" the way it is set up, rails starting at the table rather than the left extension wing, using the standard rail system.

It locks to the front and rear rails, so no deflection. I have the rear clamp set up with a cam lock, so it takes only seconds.

Positive locking for each 1/32", so if you set it for 9", it's always exactly 9". Good if you have to go back an cut another piece the same size as the last, so long as you know the measurement.

Cons: Positive locking for each 1/32". Sound familiar? This is a con if you are setting the fence to a part that you need that is not measured in 32nds. Say you want to cut a drawer face, and you don't measure it with a rule, but with a pencil mark from the opening itself, then want to set the fence to that mark. It may require fiddling with the fine adjust knob to match that, which is not as easy as moving and locking a standard fence. It can be done however, then reset the fine tuning to where it was before so it's zeroed out again.

To rip 50", you need 94" to the right of the blade. I have about two inches to spare, so no problem for me. That was dead space anyway for me.

It's a bit more of a hassle to remove than a standard fence, if you need to make wide crosscuts, but not bad, and it requires more room to store, as you have to remove the entire "T". No need to reset anything though, just as accurate when it goes back on.

It takes up more room on the extension table, not as convenient to put other stuff on the table. But then again, there isn't as much to clear off when you need to do that too.

The only con that might prove troublesome to me is the first one mentioned. I haven't run across that yet, but I suppose it could be a pain if you had to do it a lot. But then again, we're talking about splitting a 1/32", which is not a lot of real estate to niggle about in most situations.

I think that this is a pretty fair assessment of the Incra Fence. Another plus, their customer service is top notch. For better or for worse, I appreciate accuracy, and am put off by tools that can't deliver in that regard. This one delivers in spades. I hope I feel the same after a few projects using it.

Hope this has been helpful. I guess I pretty much hijacked my own thread here, or at least aided and abetted, but I find it frustrating when reading through a thread, see something interesting though maybe unrelated, only to find that further discussion goes to PM mode.

Dan

John Keeton
01-09-2010, 8:23 AM
Dan, a little late seeing this thread, and from the looks of your setup this isn't going to help much. But, for what it is worth, this is my outfeed table.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=123793&thumb=1&d=1248657003 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=123793&d=1248657003)
The table itself is cobbled together with some plywood scraps, and the top is Lexan over a plywood base. It is slick, and nothing sticks to it with any tenacity, so it is easy to keep clean. Subs as a glue up area at times, and I try to cover it with newpaper or rosin paper - but, not always!:o

There are two roll out drawer units - one on either side. I can roll them out, and use for additional "counter top area" for finishing pieces, etc.

Michael Koch
01-09-2010, 10:18 AM
Dan, I built this one out of a Fine Woodworking magazine. I believed they called it the ultimate outfeed table. MK

Michael Stanley
01-09-2010, 10:40 AM
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e98/oaksmith/Finished%20Shop/IMG_0475.jpg
Gary, you could do surgery in there it's so clean. :D

Tony Bilello
01-09-2010, 10:55 AM
Just a plain simple outfeed table. I use the butcher paper to protect the top when I am gluing up.
My oufeed table, in every shop I have ever had, always turns out to be my favorite work table/assembly table due to close proximity of table saw.

John McCaskill
01-09-2010, 11:20 AM
Mine folds when I want it to, but nowadays I rarely fold it down. I store clamps under it for the most part. The 2' segment just behind the saw doesn't fold down, but I can remove it but unscrewing the two wing nuts. The 2" outboard segment folds down at 90 degrees.

Ed Parker
01-09-2010, 12:56 PM
Gary, you could do surgery in there it's so clean. :D

God, I was thinking the same thing !! LOL

"Gary Smith"
01-09-2010, 1:37 PM
God, I was thinking the same thing !! LOL

Well guys, that photo was taken several years ago right after I rebuilt the shop from scratch.
I keep it clear and clean, but not as clean as the photo

glenn bradley
01-09-2010, 3:11 PM
Mine is a re-use of an older worktable that someone gave me once upon a time. Cut the legs down to height added a thicker top (scrap PB from some demo work) and routed clearance slots in it for the sleds and such. It won't go away . . . . I want to build one with much better, more efficient storage areas and drawers. It just keeps working and other things keep coming up. I guess the moral (if there is one) is that if you aren't sure what you want yet, be careful about what you use "temporarily".

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 4:47 PM
Dan, a little late seeing this thread, and from the looks of your setup this isn't going to help much. But, for what it is worth, this is my outfeed table.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=123793&thumb=1&d=1248657003 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=123793&d=1248657003)
The table itself is cobbled together with some plywood scraps, and the top is Lexan over a plywood base. It is slick, and nothing sticks to it with any tenacity, so it is easy to keep clean. Subs as a glue up area at times, and I try to cover it with newpaper or rosin paper - but, not always!:o

There are two roll out drawer units - one on either side. I can roll them out, and use for additional "counter top area" for finishing pieces, etc.

John---Thanks, actually it's very helpful. I like the idea of having "separates". That would let me have the use of the table while building the storage. I'm looking for a similar shape, wider than deep, only difference would be which direction drawers or shelves would face.

Dan

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 4:50 PM
Dan, I built this one out of a Fine Woodworking magazine. I believed they called it the ultimate outfeed table. MK

Michael---Thanks, I have that issue, have been considering some of those features, though would have to alter dimensions to make it wider than long.

Dan

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 4:59 PM
Mine folds when I want it to, but nowadays I rarely fold it down. I store clamps under it for the most part. The 2' segment just behind the saw doesn't fold down, but I can remove it but unscrewing the two wing nuts. The 2" outboard segment folds down at 90 degrees.

John---That's a nice solution, gotta love all that real estate when it's folded out. Mine will need a free standing table, as the Incra Fence needs clearance along the back rail. I may still do a smaller folding section right in line with the blade.

Dan

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 5:01 PM
Mine is a re-use of an older worktable that someone gave me once upon a time. Cut the legs down to height added a thicker top (scrap PB from some demo work) and routed clearance slots in it for the sleds and such. It won't go away . . . . I want to build one with much better, more efficient storage areas and drawers. It just keeps working and other things keep coming up. I guess the moral (if there is one) is that if you aren't sure what you want yet, be careful about what you use "temporarily".

Glen, can you do what John Keeton did, just build storage units to go under the table you already have?

Dan

Fred Voorhees
01-09-2010, 5:03 PM
Here is mine. Jet 10" cabinet saw purchased, two years ago. I got to the outfeed table pretty much right away, but I just within the last couple of months got around to doing the under-table cabinet.

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 5:47 PM
Fred---Looks good. I'm pretty sure I'm going to do separates too. Now get to work on the storage for the outfeed side! :D

Dan

John Nesmith
01-09-2010, 6:49 PM
Here's mine. A piece of plywood screwed to a Ridgid flip top stand. Do I win?

137834

Dan Forman
01-09-2010, 7:46 PM
John---Um, no. :D I'm using one of those stands now, without the plywood. They are really handy, but my floor is at such an angle, I have to wedge up one side to put it close to the same plane as the saw table.

Dan

Brian D Anderson
01-09-2010, 7:49 PM
A little late . . . but here's mine. It's basically two lower kitchen cabinets back to back, with a little space in between them.

http://www.jfreitasphotography.com/Temp/Outfeed4.jpg

http://www.jfreitasphotography.com/Temp/Outfeed6.jpg

Nice practice for making kitchen cabinets. :D

And later, I did the same thing with the router table:

http://www.jfreitasphotography.com/Temp/RT1.jpg

-Brian

Stephen Edwards
01-09-2010, 7:51 PM
When possible, re-purpose.

Hit up your local thrift, goodwill, restore or salvation store.

http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/images/Shop/Outfeed_Table.jpg

I like it! That's my kinda thinking, too. It's certainly better than my sheet of plywood supported by two boards laying across a pair of saw horses.

Glen Walker
01-09-2010, 10:55 PM
Brian,
That is a really great layout on your outfeed table. Im thinking of building one very simular to it, only Im going to build it on casters so I can move it around in the shop as needed. I was thinking of framing it in metal to keep it rigid.

Nick Mastropietro
01-09-2010, 11:20 PM
There are some really great looking and functional outfeed tables posted here. This is my humble attempt at one I found in a mag and decided to build.

Glen Butler
01-09-2010, 11:48 PM
Mine is pretty much like everybody else that is like mine. You can see the beginning of the cabinets that will be under the outfeed table. They are in place now but I don't have the drawers installed yet.

Interesting note: The base of the powermatic is so heavy I can extent the casters and retract the feet on the legs of the outfeed and extensions wing and the whole saw can be held up by just the base of the saw. You can see that I have nearly a full sheet of MDF supported by maple "joists" supported by 2x2x1/4 angle iron that runs from the front rail to the rear of the outfeed.

Note also how I actually have dust in my shop.:D

Joe Jensen
01-10-2010, 12:26 AM
Here are pics of mine. I have a space for a router in it as well. When not using the router table I swap the plate for one that is undrilled. I also have dust collection from the dust collector to the router. The drawers are deep and on full extension slides.

With this version the top overhangs the sides by 1.5" giving me nice room to clamp things to the table.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1422-1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1440.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1441.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1442.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1443.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1476.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3374Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3376Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3379Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3377Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3378Large.jpghttp://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3380Large.jpg

Matt Stiegler
01-10-2010, 1:14 AM
A little late . . . but here's mine. It's basically two lower kitchen cabinets back to back, with a little space in between them.

Nice practice for making kitchen cabinets. :D

And later, I did the same thing with the router table:


Brian, that is some beautiful work, I love the look of that.

Jason White
01-10-2010, 8:05 AM
Joe, that's a beauty!!

I think I just might copy your design. :)

Jason


Here are pics of mine. I have a space for a router in it as well. When not using the router table I swap the plate for one that is undrilled. I also have dust collection from the dust collector to the router. The drawers are deep and on full extension slides.

With this version the top overhangs the sides by 1.5" giving me nice room to clamp things to the table.

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1422-1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1440.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1441.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1442.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1443.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK1476.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3374Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3376Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3379Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3377Large.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3378Large.jpghttp://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3380Large.jpg

Pat Meeuwissen
01-10-2010, 8:10 AM
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3374Large.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3379Large.jpg

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w99/AZEngineer/_NIK3380Large.jpg
Joe, love to entire concept of your outfeed table, could you tell me how you made the perfect recess for the router inlay? Sorry for the newby question but got to start somewhere. Also I see several guys have the phenolic sides on their TS fence could you share a supplier for those? Thanks Pat

Pat Meeuwissen
01-10-2010, 8:19 AM
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=6731 the first image is my outfeed table not the best but it works pretty well and it only adds about 8' in the folded position. Pat

Dan Forman
01-10-2010, 5:24 PM
Brian---Those are some really nice looking units you have there. Great use of space.

Nick---That looks like the FWW version. are the giant screw eyes levelers or brakes to keep it from rolling? Either way, an interesting solution.

Joe---That's a fine setup, thanks for the detailed pictures. Looks plenty stout too.

Pat---Looks good for outfeed, but I need solid table to put things on. On the other hand, you probably never have to clean yours off.:)

Dan

Michael Drew
01-11-2010, 11:34 AM
It locks to the front and rear rails, so no deflection. I have the rear clamp set up with a cam lock, so it takes only seconds.
Dan

Dan - can you elaborate on this some? Where did you get the cam? It sounds like something I'd like to do to mine.

Jerome Hanby
01-11-2010, 12:12 PM
Dan, I built this one out of a Fine Woodworking magazine. I believed they called it the ultimate outfeed table. MK

Since they call everything else Ultimate whatever, not sure why they switched up this time. Looks like it's the
Best-Ever Outfeed Table (http://www.finewoodworking.com/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=31716)(Subscription required to read article)

Steve Kohn
01-11-2010, 12:41 PM
I use a my outfeed table as a sanding table and assembly table on top of a storage cabinet. It is made out of excess countertop.

Barry wines
01-11-2010, 3:29 PM
Here is my Unisaw setup. It has permanent tables.The outfeed table has Incra miter tracks inlaid into it and also has an accessory cabinet under it.
The side table has an aux. fence extension so that I can cut full sheets of plywood without permantily taking up that much floor space.

ken gibbs
01-11-2010, 6:25 PM
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e98/oaksmith/Finished%20Shop/IMG_0475.jpg
I built a hinged outfeed table for my used Unisaw with miter tracks. When its "up" my miter gage runs through to the miter on the hinged table. It folds down to wtihin 1" of the floor. I had to mount my Unisaw on caters due to space considerations so I had to hinge it.

brian c miller
01-11-2010, 7:55 PM
Here's a link to the FWW Best ever one... looks great

http://eberhardt.bz/GME_Wood_Land/GME_Woodworking_Stuff/1_Jigs_Tools/12_Best_OutFeed_Table.pdf

Dan Forman
01-11-2010, 10:38 PM
Dan - can you elaborate on this some? Where did you get the cam? It sounds like something I'd like to do to mine.

Michael---I just removed the hex bolt on the far lock and replaced it with a cam lock mechanism from Lee Valley. Actually, I think the same thing that comes on the the near side lock might even be preferable, as the cam lock sometimes takes a little fiddling with. They just use the hex bolt because they don't want you reaching over the blade with the saw running. I not only have a blade guard, but with my fence ending where it does, I would never reach over the blade anyway to lock the fence.

Dan

Ben Martin
01-11-2010, 10:48 PM
Here is a picture of mine. Made from FWW plans from their beginning in woodworking set...

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp325/martbj/Bow%20Arm%20Morris%20Chair/IMG_2362.jpg

Dan Forman
01-11-2010, 11:13 PM
Steve---That looks good. Nice jointer you have there too.

Barry---Like that aux fence setup. I really need a similar blade storage thingy.

Ben---That looks a lot like my workbench.

Dan

Pat Meeuwissen
01-16-2010, 6:41 AM
Brian, that was a really good link. Very well build with plenty of storage.

Pat

Chris Kehl
01-18-2010, 11:39 AM
Mine is nothing fancy, cheap and easy to build. 2x4's with a sheet of MDF on the top. Have not cut miter slots yet. And my shop is much cleaner now than it was in the picture!:D

Bob Haskett
01-18-2010, 11:50 AM
Does it matter if the infeed and outfeed tables are PERFECTLY aligned to the table saw table? I am just wondering if it has to be as perfect as the extension wings are in respect to the table. If so, that seems like it would be extremely hard to do some of the stuff I have seen here.

thanks

BTW: This site is so depressing, I see some of the work here and it just baffles me how talented some of you guys are...

John Keeton
01-18-2010, 1:36 PM
Bob, I don't have an infeed table, but on my outfeed table, I purposefully made it just a bit lower (perhaps 1/8"), so I would not ever have an issue with anything catching as it passed thru the blade. I am sure if one were to be able to have it dead flush, it would be fine. But, I haven't seen an issue with the way I have it and I never have to worry about a "catch."

Bob Haskett
01-18-2010, 1:43 PM
I see what you mean. It seems like a few people are using the outfeed tables in lieu of a rear rail for a larger fence, in that case I would think it would have to be flush correct?

Chris Jackson
01-21-2010, 11:09 PM
Thought I'd share some shots of my outfeed. It's loosely based on one from a 2008 FWW issue...wasn't able to locate phenolic plywood locally so I just covered some 1/2" Birch ply with fomica for the top. It has 4 drawers with 100 lb sliders, an oversized bay for my crosscut sled, and clamp rack at the rear, with coarse thread lag screws on the bottom for height adjustment...all in all I'm very happy with it.

Jon Todd
01-21-2010, 11:30 PM
There are some nice lookingg tables here.

Steve Clardy
01-22-2010, 1:47 PM
Yep. Theres some awesome looking outfeeds in here.

Mine is just a simple 2x4 framed table with a sheet of osb on top. 3'x7'
I routinely rip 12' material so I need the length.
I've never got around to putting a shelf or drawers underneath.

Cliff Holmes
01-22-2010, 2:27 PM
I have the rear clamp set up with a cam lock, so it takes only seconds.

That's a clever idea. Consider it stolen :D

I even have a spare cam clamp sitting here on my desk.

Cliff

Dan Forman
01-22-2010, 5:26 PM
That's a clever idea. Consider it stolen :D

I even have a spare cam clamp sitting here on my desk.

Cliff
It sounds good, but in practice it tends to release on it's own a lot if not adjusted just right. There is a pretty small sweet spot for the set up. I think one similar to the standard turn lock on the operators side is more secure. It would be just as fast, as it's only a half turn to lock. I'll probably replace the cam lock eventually with a turn knob.

Dan

Michael Dunn
01-27-2010, 3:15 PM
I built this from woodmagazine.com plans. It suits my needs perfectly. I usually cannot leave everything all setup all the time. This doubles as a workbench and outfeed table. When I am finished it straddles the table saw and takes up no more room than one or the other.

Check out this quick youtube video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A46hUz7gNnU

Thanx,

shotgunn

Dan Forman
01-27-2010, 4:47 PM
Hey Michael, welcome to the Creek. I see you have a helper there! :D

Dan

Joe Jensen
01-27-2010, 6:35 PM
Joe, love to entire concept of your outfeed table, could you tell me how you made the perfect recess for the router inlay? Sorry for the newby question but got to start somewhere. Also I see several guys have the phenolic sides on their TS fence could you share a supplier for those? Thanks Pat

I bought the insert from Woodpeck and they sell a template for your router so you can route the recess. Super simple. I think the template was list $10.

Joe Von Kaenel
01-28-2010, 12:57 PM
Dan,

Mine is not fancy but when not in use it rolls over the saw and shares the same footprint. When in use the wheels lift up an the table site on leveler feet.


Joe

I can't upload the pics again. See Joe Von Kaenel Condensing the work shop (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1317010#post1317010) 01-18-2010, 6:30 PM Thread

Kevin Womer
01-28-2010, 4:24 PM
Dan,
Someone may have mentioned it already, however, there is a podcast on The Woodwhisperer that I copied for my saw. You could modify it to suit your needs as I did. I believe he made it out of walnut plywood, very simple joinery and took a weekend give or take.:rolleyes:

Good Luck!

Dan Forman
01-28-2010, 5:28 PM
Kevin- I saw that, was going to go that way when I decided I was leery of dedicating that much permanent space so close to the workbench. So what I've decided to do is go with a two stage folding table, 20 inches out on 4 legs, then another 24" folding section hanging from that. I'm going to try to put that on casters, so I can wheel the whole thing out of the way if I need that space for something, like putting together the new workbench I'm planning. I still need to have the legs adjustable, as the floor isn't flat, so it might need to have a mobile base kind of setup, with the legs adjustable on the base. It would fasten to the rails of the Incrafence to keep it from moving in use. The saw is stationary.

On a related note, I think I will borrow the idea of the cabinet from his assembly table, and use it for the base of the new side extension table I'm planning.

Dan Forman
01-28-2010, 5:42 PM
Dan,

Mine is not fancy but when not in use it rolls over the saw and shares the same footprint. When in use the wheels lift up an the table site on leveler feet.


Joe

I can't upload the pics again. See Joe Von Kaenel Condensing the work shop (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1317010#post1317010) 01-18-2010, 6:30 PM Thread

Joe---That's pretty cool, too many things in the way in my setting though. Wheels are our friends. :)

Dan

Jon Todd
01-28-2010, 10:54 PM
All this talk of tables made e want to redo mine. So I did. I built it like a torsion box so I can also use it for assembly and I just wanted it to be really solid. I laminated the entire box top sides and bottom. I had moisture get to the last table and the laminate started coming off.

The table is also bigger its now 4x4

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/1120/Table_saw_2_.JPG

Glen Walker
01-28-2010, 11:04 PM
I actually started in the opposite direction from what your talking about Dan. I built my workbench first and now Im trying to figure out a design on my outfeed table. I believe Im going to stick with the metal frame on the outfeed table and actually mount the table saw on the frame so everything will stay level and true. Ill mount the whole thing on casters so it can be moved around the shop as needed, and as I get time Ill build my cabinets simular to the way I laid them out on my work bench. Here are some pictures of what Im talking about.

Thanks guys, there are some really great ideas here.

Dan Forman
01-28-2010, 11:17 PM
Jon---Nice job on the table. Wish I had the room for a nice big stationary combo table like that. I'm going to lam both sides of mine too.

Glen---That's a beautiful bench with a serious top! Good luck with your rolling saw station.

Dan