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View Full Version : Crafstman 20" 137.229201 Drill Press



Les Garten
01-08-2010, 12:02 PM
Hi,
First post here. I don't do wood working... yet that is. But I just bought this DP off CL for $300. The guy who had it was a Professional trim carpenter, fancy type stuff. He got this from someone who defaulted on some type of payment I think. I was looking for something to do Metal. He had a few other presses but I think tjis one was just too big and he didn't need it.
He advertised it as only about 20 min time on it. I believe him, the pulleys look new, there is still cosmoline on the chuck and no "old dirt" on anything. The Press is in incredible, "almost new" condition. Makes NICE Holes! It has a monster table on it and weighs about 300# I think.

Here's some Specs:
Crafstman 20" 137.229201

20" Swing
2 HP Motor
3/4" Chuck
12 Spd
150 -4200 RPM
Table size: 19-1/4" x 18-3/8"
45 degree tilt R/L
Spindle Travel 4 3/4"
Throat 10-t/4"
Base Size 17-3/4" x 24-1/8"
Height 66-3/4"

Runs quiet and true, haven't put a Dial on it though.

Couple questions. Looks like Craftsman makes a different 20" now with less power.

Any problems with this one?

The worm that raises and lowers the table is a little sticky, well, quite a bit sticky. I have to wiggle the table side to side a little while cranking it up and down. Should I grease that rack? Would it help or is this normal?

I'll be using it to drill computer cases and DIY Audio amplifier cases. I'm sure it is overkill, but that's how I roll! Looked like a decent deal for a basically new DP.

http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/DrillPress/AAA_1969.JPG
http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/DrillPress/AAA_1970.JPG
http://www.turbonet.biz/misc/DrillPress/AAA_1971.JPG

glenn bradley
01-08-2010, 1:21 PM
Great score. The 137 prefix designates a Rexon manufacture. They have made some nice stuff for C-man over the years.

Les Garten
01-08-2010, 1:40 PM
Hi,
Thanx for that info! This is my first DP. What are the slots in the Foot/Base for? Any mods you would suggest?

glenn bradley
01-08-2010, 2:21 PM
Slots in the base accept special t-nuts/bolts or I believe SAE 1/2" hex as well for attaching "whatever". Most mods I would know about are to make DPs more WWing friendly. Sounds like you will be drilling mostly metal products so I'd say you're good to go.

Les Garten
01-08-2010, 4:01 PM
Slots in the base accept special t-nuts/bolts or I believe SAE 1/2" hex as well for attaching "whatever". Most mods I would know about are to make DPs more WWing friendly. Sounds like you will be drilling mostly metal products so I'd say you're good to go.

Thanx! I'll hunt down a vise for sure.

Rod Sheridan
01-08-2010, 5:23 PM
The column looks rusty, that may be why the drill press table is hard to move. (You did unlock it before trying to move it?).

Clean the column with a wire brush, then some WD-40 and a Scothbrite pad

I wouldn't grease the rack, however a squirt of oil on the elevation handle "bearings" would be a good idea.

Regards, Rod.

Les Garten
01-08-2010, 5:30 PM
The column looks rusty, that may be why the drill press table is hard to move. (You did unlock it before trying to move it?).

Clean the column with a wire brush, then some WD-40 and a Scothbrite pad

I wouldn't grease the rack, however a squirt of oil on the elevation handle "bearings" would be a good idea.

Regards, Rod.

Heh, yeah I did unlock it. The column does have some rust for sure. I'll clean up the column.

I've read here about cleaning the column of all oil/grease to get the clamp to clamp to a clean column for non worm drives. I guess that doesn't count for rack setups.

Les Garten
01-09-2010, 3:29 AM
The column looks rusty, that may be why the drill press table is hard to move. (You did unlock it before trying to move it?).

Clean the column with a wire brush, then some WD-40 and a Scothbrite pad

I wouldn't grease the rack, however a squirt of oil on the elevation handle "bearings" would be a good idea.

Regards, Rod.

One more question. I live in a Humid environment. Should I oil that column after cleaning it up? If so, what would be good?

Les Garten
04-29-2010, 10:26 PM
I had a wire wheel in this Press today knocking some paint off a valve cover for 30-45 minutes. When I pulled back, the chuck fell out with the spindle. How is that spindle retained? Do I just stick it back in there and press it in? This is my first DP!

Tom Esh
04-29-2010, 11:00 PM
I had a wire wheel in this Press today knocking some paint off a valve cover for 30-45 minutes. When I pulled back, the chuck fell out with the spindle. How is that spindle retained? Do I just stick it back in there and press it in? This is my first DP!

It's a taper-fit (most DPs use it) and even with a good fit it's not unusual for the vibration to wiggle the chuck loose when there's no downforce being applied. When re-mounting it make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean. Use mineral spirits or alcohol to remove any oil film or residue. Then with the chuck jaws retracted (so they don't get damaged), slip it on the spindle, hold a piece of scrap wood under it and give the scrap a modest whack or two with a hammer.

Les Garten
04-29-2010, 11:02 PM
It's a taper-fit (most DPs use it) and even with a good fit it's not unusual for the vibration to wiggle the chuck loose when there's no downforce being applied. When re-mounting it make sure the mating surfaces are completely clean. Use mineral spirits or alcohol to remove any oil film or residue. Then with the chuck jaws retracted (so they don't get damaged), slip it on the spindle, hold a piece of scrap wood under it and give the scrap a modest whack or two with a hammer.

Thanx Tom, that's how it looks like it goes together! I'll re-mate it tomorrow.

Tom Esh
04-29-2010, 11:10 PM
One more question. I live in a Humid environment. Should I oil that column after cleaning it up? If so, what would be good?

I wipe mine down a couple times a year with WD-40. Grease or heavy oil on an exposed surface like that will grab dust, dirt, bugs, and generally get gummy.

Les Garten
04-29-2010, 11:15 PM
I wipe mine down a couple times a year with WD-40. Grease or heavy oil on an exposed surface like that will grab dust, dirt, bugs, and generally get gummy.

How do you dismount it, once it's been tapped in?

Tom Esh
04-29-2010, 11:29 PM
How do you dismount it, once it's been tapped in?

The same way you got it to fall off to start with.:D
Seriously, if running a sanding drum or wire wheel for awhile doesn't do it (and it usually does for me) they do make these forked wedge things:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-removal-wedges/=6vo1pd

Chip Lindley
04-29-2010, 11:49 PM
Drill presses with a Jacobs #33 taper only, cannot be depended upon for anything except vertical drilling. Radial thrust loads (such as your wire wheel) tend to loosen the chuck easily, and that could be quite dangerous under certain conditions. Not to mention, undue wear on the taper.

My older King-Seeley Craftsman ('50's) has a threaded collar which mates the chuck to the quill, in addition to the #33 taper. The collar keeps everything tightly together unless it is removed with a special spanner wrench.

Les Garten
04-29-2010, 11:54 PM
The same way you got it to fall off to start with.:D
Seriously, if running a sanding drum or wire wheel for awhile doesn't do it (and it usually does for me) they do make these forked wedge things:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#drill-chuck-removal-wedges/=6vo1pd

Thanx for that!

Les Garten
04-29-2010, 11:55 PM
Drill presses with a Jacobs #33 taper only, cannot be depended upon for anything except vertical drilling. Radial thrust loads (such as your wire wheel) tend to loosen the chuck easily, and that could be quite dangerous under certain conditions. Not to mention, undue wear on the taper.

My older King-Seeley Craftsman ('50's) has a threaded collar which mates the chuck to the quill, in addition to the #33 taper. The collar keeps everything tightly together unless it is removed with a special spanner wrench.

Yeah, I knew I was bein' a Bad Boy when I was doin' it!

Russell Sansom
04-30-2010, 4:59 AM
One comment about DP size: It's hard to have one that's too big. You can do things like drill the floor end of table legs for casters. The stiffness that goes with the greater mass will raise the natural frequency considerably, so vibration is less of a problem. This can make a big difference if you're trying to put precise holes in metal.
At this size, though, it gets harder to stall the motor, so don't let it grab a sleeve or your necktie. Don't try to hold down a sheet of aluminum with one hand while you drill it. A weaker DP might whap your hand and stall out. This one is more likely to go right through you and keep spinning. OK?

Les Garten
04-30-2010, 11:45 AM
One comment about DP size: It's hard to have one that's too big. You can do things like drill the floor end of table legs for casters. The stiffness that goes with the greater mass will raise the natural frequency considerably, so vibration is less of a problem. This can make a big difference if you're trying to put precise holes in metal.
At this size, though, it gets harder to stall the motor, so don't let it grab a sleeve or your necktie. Don't try to hold down a sheet of aluminum with one hand while you drill it. A weaker DP might whap your hand and stall out. This one is more likely to go right through you and keep spinning. OK?

Yeah, it's a serious piece of gear and I have a healthy respect for it. It scared the hell out of me when the Chuck fell out!