Glass cabinet door joint strength...

[Michael Donahue]

Hey folks. I was thinking of picking up a glass door router bit set like this one http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=9985&filter=glass%20cmt

I was wondering about the strength of the joint though. It seems that if you allow for the rabbet on the back of the rails/stiles, you lose the normal stub tenon and have alot of end grain in the joint. How well would it stand up in the long run?

If the strength is an issue, should it be reinforced some how? I was thinking pocket screws and plugs, but that's not the prettiest look!

Thanks for the help!

[Brian Kincaid]

I did a similar job with some plexiglass doors. My rail and stiles were only 1" thick for some small doors, maybe 20" x 20". Fastened them using the coped joint glue area only. The doors fell apart within a month of use. I fixed them with my domino (loose tenon). There are probably other good options too.

-Brian

[David Duke]

The rabbet for the glass doesn't go through the joint. What I normally do is use the normal rail/stile bits, put the door frame together without a panel then rabbet the backside for the glass to fit in (you will need to chisel out the corners). If you want to cut the slot in the rabet for the push in glass stop you will need to use a 1/8" slot cutter with a top bearing.

[Neal Clayton]

i agree, i would make them thicker and set the glass as you would in a french door, or glaze the glass as you would with a window so that the glass holds the wood in place.

[J.R. Rutter]

We assemble with standard cope/stick with groove. Then rabbet them out on the router table. Trim corners with chisel.

[Bob Elliott]

I bought that set from Sommerfeld for $100 on clearance last summer because i knew I would build a china cabinet with glass doors. I wanted that set because I used the CMT 6 piece cabinet door set to make the doors on the cabinet below the china cabinet.

I am in the middle of making the china cabinet. I figured the doors would be 34 1/8" h x 13 7/8" w. I intended to make multiple panels although I haven't put much thought into how many panels I would have per door yet.

Would it be better to install one solid piece of glass with a wood grill on the front or make the grill and install a piece of glass in each field? I also wonder if the glue joints will be strong enough. My lower cabinet doors haven't had a problem but they aren't carrying near the weight that the glass doors will.

Bob

[Lee Schierer]

Two options.

First if your design will allow it (overlay or semi overlay doors) use lap joints for the corners. The lap end grain may be hidden by the overlay or maybe it will look okay.

Second option. Use the cope and stick method and adhere your glass in place in the frame with beads of silicone. The glass will then act as part of the frame. If the glass ever needs replaced, a razor blade will cut the silicone.

[Byron Trantham]

I bought the rail and stile glass door bit combination from MLCS. Before I cut the cope and stick I predrilled 1/4" holes for dowels (two at each corner). After making sure they "assembled properly" I then cut the cope and stick. During assembly I applied glue to the dowels and clamped them together. These doors are 6 feet (of 1/8" tempered glass) and about 20" wide. I used three hinges and they have been hanging for about 12 years! I hate using dowels but they are strong.

[Rod Sheridan]

I make them with mortise and tenon joints, and rebate the glass in.

I also made two using cope/stick cutters and cut the rebates afterwards.

All of the doors are still together, although I like the first method better if it fits with the style.

Regards, Rod.