Router Table Door Question

[Don Abele]

I'm hoping to finish up my router table this upcoming weekend. Had a question for those of you with one...why make the door out of plexi? My previous table (an extension on my old tablesaw) had a plexi door and I don't think it ever really came into use. So is there a good reason for it? I can work with plexi/lexan/polycarbonate just as well as I can wood, and have an abundant supply of it, just curious if there really is a need for it.

Be well,

Doc

[Steve Clardy]

Mine is wood Don. Don't see the need to peek in there too often, as the collector keeps in fairly clean in there around the routers. [2]
It does have a couple of 1" holes drilled in it for more air flow.
Steve

[John Miliunas]

Don, I'm with Steve on this one. Wood for mine works just fine. I guess you can do plexi for the "cool factor". :) Hey, you can probably do like they have now on some of those funky computer cases and throw a xenon bulb behind it, too! :D Now that's "cool factor" X2! :cool:

[Jim Becker]

It's not necessary, but I like that I can look in the cabinet. BTW, make sure you put a slot near the bottom of the door to allow a little air in to "sweep" the dust to the back of the cabinet. Without this, it will tend to collect in the front corners of the cabinet.

[Don Abele]

John, I've seen lights inside the cabinets - said they were to help them see better when making adjustments. I didn't have one in my last one and never had a problem seeing in there. Though a hot pink neon light does sound appealing :p

Jim, I had a slot in my last door and was thinking of going with a series of holes this time, not sure yet and don't think it makes a difference. Just need the sweeping action across the floor of the cabinet and extra air to stop from starving the DC. This table, like my previous one, will have down-draft collection as well. In messing with my previous design, I also added an internal sloped plenum and some angled pieces in the back corners. Seemed to help some with the last table, so I put them in this one too.

Hopefully I'll finish it up this weekend and post pics. Thanks for your input.

Be well,

Doc

[Don Selke]

Doc:
I am going to start on a new router table myself in a few weeks. I was planing on using wood for the door myself with make up air holes drilled into the door. I will be anxious to hear how yours turns out.
By the way, I need to post some pictures of my shop to show that I really have one.
In addition, thanks for the kind words Doc.

[Cecil Arnold]

I use wood and can see no need for plex. I also have a bottom slot for a cabinet sweep as Jim suggested.

[David Rose]

Doc, I put clear plastic in mine, and have no idea why now. :rolleyes: I did put a light in it so that I would notice when it is running. I find the most dangerous time to be when it's shut off and hasn't wound down. The light was no help for that of course as it went out when switched off. So I pulled it. I would go back with a wood panel next time.

David

[David LaRue]

Don,


I opted for a wood door on mine with a outlet insde that I pluig in a low wattage light. Best of both worlds!

D

[Mike Scoggins]

Doc,

I made doors with wood stiles and rails with plexi-glass for the panels in a rabbeting frame for my router table. I think it was really for the "cool factor" as John calls it; I just like being able to see inside the cabinet and see the chips being swooped to the DC. (I obviously don't actually see them when I'm working, but it's nice for demonstrations for friends and fellow woodworkers.) With the rabbeting frame, it would be very easy to replace the plexi-glass with a wood panel if desired. The panels are held in place with four friction twist catches held in place with a screw (official name escapes me at the moment). Shoot, you might start something here and have inerchangeable designer panels.

Mike