#6 plane

[Al Bertics]

I picked up a old #6 hand plane tonight and I trying to Id it to get some parts for it. I will post a couple of picks of it tomarrow but this is what I have so far. It is fairly rusted and does not look like it has been used in a long time. It is 18 inches long. In front of where the front knob would be it is raised cast: No 6 . I am going to clean it so I will see if I can find any other info. It does not have a name cast in it any where that I have found so far.

[Matt Evans]

Welcome to SMC.

I think you came to the right place to get info on the No. 6s. There have been a few threads recently about them, so it should be fresh in folks minds.

[Jim Koepke]

Al,

Welcome to the Creek.

Your profile does not show where you are located. You may live close to one of us who would be glad to help you figure out this neander tool.

Getting parts should not be too hard if this is a Stanley.

There usually are not marks on the casting to indicate it is a Stanley until 1902 when the name Bailey was cast into the front end of the planes. The No. 6 was moved to the back of the plane when this was done. If the plane has a lateral blade adjuster, that will usually have the word Stanley stamped into it if it is made by Stanley. If not, there are ways to get an indication of the different makers by the way the lever is made. If it is before the time of lateral levers, then inside the brass adjuster there could be some patent information stamped to indicate the maker.

We will likely be able to get this figured out.

There is a "sticky" thread at the top of the this conference called Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs that contains posts with a lot of information on how to de-rust an old plane. Some use evapo-rust, others like citric acid or vinegar. There is also information on how to rehabilitate and tune a plane to get top performance from an old tool.

There are also links with information on how to determine when the plane was made or by which maker.

Have fun,

jim

[Al Bertics]

It does have a lateral lever. Currently the brass adjustment screw is frozen. I am going to take the frog out and try to clean it. Besides the front knob which is missing and the rear handle which is broken the only other part that is broken is the front edge of the blade cap at the bottom. It is to cold in my garage right now but later today I get in there and take it apart.

[James Taglienti]

any chance we can get a photo?

[Al Bertics]

here is a couple pics
http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy278/bert304/6.jpg

http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy278/bert304/62.jpg

http://i799.photobucket.com/albums/yy278/bert304/63.jpg

Sorry if the pics are bad

[Matt Radtke]

I don't mean to discourage you, but if ever the term "Beat to Hell" was appropriate. . . Did a mutant, metal-chewing beaver attack the lever cap?

If you are able to refrub it, bravo. It'll make it more fun for you.

[Al Bertics]

Most of it is beat to hell but the base is not to bad. No really bad marks mostly just surface rust. So I figure at the worst case I keep it for parts. I only paid 10 bucks for it so not to bad.

[David Gendron]

I have to say, I'm with Matt on this one. it look like a lot of work to put it to work...
Good luck!

[Jeff Heath]

On the other side of the fence, just imagine the great feeling you'll have when you've returned that fine, if hidden, tool back to working form. I've resurrected quite a few in my day, and some were in much worse condition than yours.

Depending on the maker, (and it looks like an old Stanley or Stanley clone) lever caps are pretty easy to come by, as yours is shot. Clean er' up, and tuner er' up, and it'll be taking shavings in no time.

Just some words of encouragement from afar.

[Al Bertics]

As far as I can tell right now all I need to replace is the handle the knob and the lever cap and I will recheck the blade but I think it only needs to be sharpened.

The big question I have is where do I get parts from? I would like to start by getting a few prices.

[dan sherman]

eBay, is probably the easiest place to get them. some lever caps are interchangeable, for example depending on the year a lever cap for a 4-1/2, 5-1/2, or 7 should work on your plane.





The big question I have is where do I get parts from? I would like to start by getting a few prices.

[Matt Radtke]

Some good sources for stanely parts inlcude:

A) The 'Bay
B) http://www.toolexchange.com.au/OtherPlanes&Parts.htm
C) http://www.antique-used-tools.com/comparts.htm

I'm sure others have their opinions.

Regarding the knob, I'd try to make one myself, if I was you. And see if you couldn't glue on some new rosewood and reshape the tote. Replacement wood bits are freaking expensive.

If the frog and body really are in good shape and just have surface rust, awesome. Those restores are the most fun.

[Jim Koepke]

Google Bob Kaune and check his prices.
Then check eBay and do not pay more than what Bob charges.
In the Neanderthal wisdom/FAQs are links to rexmill.com and other sites with information on how to repair totes.

There are a few others who sell parts. I just sold a hardwood tote and knob on ebay for a little more than $20. The tote had a good paint job, the knob needs paint.

The picture does not show it well, but your tote does not look real bad.

Not sure about the knob support, it looked pretty bad in the threads. If you need a tap, 12-20 is the size and there are a few places where they can be found.

jim