russ garcia
01-06-2010, 6:26 PM
Metal infill Smoother
-9" by 2", brass, steel.ebony, MOP
-o-1 steel blade 5/16' thick, set at 55 degrees
-oil and wax finish
-designed to plane difficult grained woods
-takes .001 to .002" shavings chatter free
-adjusting hammer: brass and walnut
It took me several months to build from scratch. Steel: 5/16" starrett O-1 for blade, milled , heat treated and tempered using a homemade propane forge, RC 62. 360 brass .41" thick for sole, 3/16" 1018 steel for sides(back of plane was bent with a wood vise and hardwood forms (tricky to keep straight).Milling was done with a knee type manual mill(wells-index). Moldings and round shapes were done with a rotary table and end mills.
Sides were through riveted with 3/16" mild steel rod on 5/8" centers. this created very rigid sides that are perpendicular to the sole. Tolerances were held to one thousandth or less, including the length of the sole. This method limits the flexing and movement of the sides when dovetailing.
Threads were cut using 1/2-13 tap and die, by hand. Inlay was done with a dremel and small chisels.
The tight tolerances and thick plane blade make for effortless and chatter free planing. The blade is easy to change and sharpen. The O-1 steel holds an edge as well as the A2 blades on my LN and is easy to forge and heat treat.At 55 degrees and 1 5/8" wide (the blade) it is easy to push the plane through harder woods. Woods I have planed are : bubinga, birdseye maple, quilted cherry, purpleheart, mahogany with grain in 2 directions. It takes a thin shaving with no tearout, even against the grain.
thanks, Russ
-9" by 2", brass, steel.ebony, MOP
-o-1 steel blade 5/16' thick, set at 55 degrees
-oil and wax finish
-designed to plane difficult grained woods
-takes .001 to .002" shavings chatter free
-adjusting hammer: brass and walnut
It took me several months to build from scratch. Steel: 5/16" starrett O-1 for blade, milled , heat treated and tempered using a homemade propane forge, RC 62. 360 brass .41" thick for sole, 3/16" 1018 steel for sides(back of plane was bent with a wood vise and hardwood forms (tricky to keep straight).Milling was done with a knee type manual mill(wells-index). Moldings and round shapes were done with a rotary table and end mills.
Sides were through riveted with 3/16" mild steel rod on 5/8" centers. this created very rigid sides that are perpendicular to the sole. Tolerances were held to one thousandth or less, including the length of the sole. This method limits the flexing and movement of the sides when dovetailing.
Threads were cut using 1/2-13 tap and die, by hand. Inlay was done with a dremel and small chisels.
The tight tolerances and thick plane blade make for effortless and chatter free planing. The blade is easy to change and sharpen. The O-1 steel holds an edge as well as the A2 blades on my LN and is easy to forge and heat treat.At 55 degrees and 1 5/8" wide (the blade) it is easy to push the plane through harder woods. Woods I have planed are : bubinga, birdseye maple, quilted cherry, purpleheart, mahogany with grain in 2 directions. It takes a thin shaving with no tearout, even against the grain.
thanks, Russ