Jointer adjustments

[stacey martin]

I got my new jointer and checking out the tables for parallel. The outfeed table is 0.008 out at the cutter head at the backside. Is this ok or should I see if I can get it closer.
Thanks Stacey

[Dave Gaul]

You should try to get it as close as possible no matter where you start. If you can get dead on .000 that would be best of course! But I believe you want to try to get it within .005 according to FWW guide to jointer set ups, which I used for my jointer. My table is ~.003 or better... my edges have been perfect so far as I can tell...

[Dave Gaul]

Just to confirm Stacey, you are talking about checking the parallelism between the infeed and outfeed tables correct? The two tables should be within .005 or better.

If you are talking about the relation of the knives to the outfeed table... that's a different story!

[stacey martin]

Just to confirm Stacey, you are talking about checking the parallelism between the infeed and outfeed tables correct? The two tables should be within .005 or better.

If you are talking about the relation of the knives to the outfeed table... that's a different story!


I haven't got that far yet. I'm trying to get the out feed table parallel to the cutter head.

Well wait a minute. My blade height was good, it's the cutter head it's self thats off. I need to go read some more.
Thanks Stacey

[Myk Rian]

You could shim the cutter head. Might be the easiest way to go.

[Dave Gaul]

That is not the first place you want to start. You want to get the infeed and outfeed tables parallel with each first. Once you do that, you adjust your blades to be parallel to the outfeed table. Then you set your outfeed table just below the TDC (Top Dead Center) of the cutters, so that when a straightedge/rule is laid across the cutterheaed the cutterhead will drag the rule 3/16". Then adjust the infeed table for the cut you want (1/32", 1/16", 1/8" etc)... and then you should be good to go!

This is the process I used, from the FWW article on jointer tune up and another article I had found. I did this not too long ago on an OLD IMS jointer I pick up from CL... this thing was in some bad shape and now it runs almost like new!

It took many hours to get the jointer just right...

[Eddie Darby]

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=40946&cat=1,43456,43407

Should do the trick. The sample pack has a 0.003" and a 0.005" shim.

Jointer Basics

Understanding this ancient but efficient machine



http://www.newwoodworker.com/usejntr.html

[Philip Rodriquez]

What type of cutter head do you have? Is it a knife system or a spiral cutter?

If it is a knife system, you simply adjust the blade height.
If it is a spiral cutter, you have to shim the cutter head. Nothing more.

If it is a new jointer, the tables should be perfect. If not, just exchange it.

[Mike Goetzke]

Is this a Grizzly. Someone posted the other day that they had a problem with some jointers with leaving a copper shim under one end of the cutter head.

Look Here Post #3 (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=128867)

[dan sherman]

This is how i did my Parallelogram jointer that had knives.

I set the infeed edge of the outfeed table parallel to the head within .001", then I made the infeed table co-planer with the outfeed table. getting the two tables co planer was accomplished with a test bar.