Does glue need to be removed

[Darren Vass]

I am making a small box for a loudspeaker. It measures about 8 W x 8 D x 13 H inches. The corners are mitered along the 8 inch sides. During the dry fit, I tried the masking tape on the mitered edges method to keep the sides tight against each other. But, when I tried to flip the four pieces over, the tape would come off some sides. So, I decided to glue up by standing the pieces on edge and use rubber bands. Well, the miters did not approximate as well as when the masking tape was used. I had to pull the pieces apart after a while (the pain). I now have glue dried on the miters. Do I need to remove the glue before I can reattempt a glue up. If so, what might be the best way to remove the glue without destroying the miters. The material is baltic birch ply. When I did use the tape in the dry fit, I found it difficult to close the open mitered sides.

Can I use carpet tape instead of masking tape to lock the mitered sides to each other? I ask this because I fear that the residual adhesive from the carpet tape might hinder a good finish on the wood.

Thanks,

Darren

[Robert Reece]

What type of glue? That will make a big difference. If you used titebond, or other PVA glue, you are not going to like the results. You can't reglue to it and you can't really remove it without trimming a little bit off the miter.

Maybe there is another glue that will bond to it, like epoxy.

[Terry Rogan]

I'd think that a well sharpened flat chisel held at a low angle would remove the glue and not dig into the wood.

As far as alignment for the next glue-up, you might try adding some dowels.
A good dowel jig (e.g. the Dowelmax) would make that very quick, easy, and accurate.

[Darren Vass]

Hi Terry,

How and where would one dowel into with a mitered corner box?

Thanks,

Darren

[brian c miller]

I would also suggest keying the miter. You could use dowels, dominions, biscuits.. the list goes on and on.

The easiest way may be just to use a thin slat and insert it into a saw kerf.

http://chestofbooks.com/architecture/Cyclopedia-Carpentry-Building-1-3/images/Fig-78-Rabbeted-Mitered-and-Splined-Joint.jpg

You want to put a saw kerf 90* to the mitered surface (the opposite of the 45* you just cut)

[keith micinski]

Two ratchet strap clamps are the best way to glue up boxes like that. They are only a couple bucks and can be used for other projects. They not only hold everything together they hold everything together in a perfect 90, plus if your joints are just a little off you can tighten them up a little and usually make up any play that there might be.

[keith micinski]

Like this one but you can get them even cheaper if you get an off brand or go to harbor freight. I think Menards has some exactly like this for about 5 bucks.

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=221781-52800-BANR400&lpage=none