Shellac From Can Needs Cut - But How Much?

[Mike Shields]

Lot's of high regard for shellac here, so I thought I'd try it.

To keep it simple, I got some Zinsser clear to go over some danish oil on a walnut frame with a raised maple inlay.

When padding it on, the shellac is drying very quickly and leaving anything but a smooth finish. I've got lot's of puddling next to the inlay and miter corners that I can't work out, and sanding it is pretty difficult.

What would be the proper way to cut this stuff?

Thanks,

Mike

[Scott Holmes]

Zinsser Clear is a 3# cut. So mixing it 50/50 with denatured alcohol (DNA) is going to give you a 1-1/2 lbs cut.

If you are padding it on then puddling means your technique needs an adjustment.

Shellac desolves in DNA so...instead of sanding the excess; use a pad damp with DNA to pad it smooth. You could also use a brush with DNA and smooth it that way...

This is one of the beauties of shellac you can redistribute it after it dries. I HARD and sanding is not fun.

[Jim Crockett]

Mike, when you say Zinnser clear shellac, are you talking about Zinnser Seal Coat or regular (waxed) clear shellac? If Seal Coat, it is a 2# cut from the can; to dilute it to a 1# cut, mix 1 part of shellac and 2/3 parts denatured alcohol. For a 1/2# cut, you would mix 1 part of Seal Coat with 2 parts dna.

Zinnser's regular shellac is a 3# cut, I believe.

1-1/2# cut - 3/4 dna :1 shellac
1# cut - 1-1/2 dna : 1 shellac
1/2# cut - 3-3/4 dna : 1 shellac

These values were obtained from the Fine Woodworking article Mixing Shellac (http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesArticle.aspx?id=28833). Hope that this helps you.

Here is an article by Jeff Jewitt, a finishing guru, about applying shellac (http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/padding_shellac.htm). Real good information!

Good luck.

Jim

[Prashun Patel]

I'm not sure putting it on over Danish oil was the best idea.
But as far as the padding goes, if you thin it to 1 - 1.5#, you'll be able to brush it fairly well with a good brush. Just don't tip off.

If you want to pad, then puddling means you've loaded too heavy and that your pad isn't absorbent enough. The fix is pretty simple, though. Here's what I do:

Let it dry.
Dampen a pad with alcohol.
Gently rub and blend out the puddle to the surrounding area. Don't rub too hard. Do it a couple times lightly until you get the feel. The puddled area might end up thin and dull, but the next coat of shellac will take care of that.

Remember, shellac blends with itself. Many thin coats will leave you even. A few thick coats will leave you puddly.

The first few coats of shellac - and any finish - are really sealing the wood; not building too much. They fill the wood fibers, swelling them a little, then lock them in place. This can be sanded off lightly. It's expected. Eventually, you WILL build with shellac. Just be patient.

[Scott Holmes]

One more point...

Shellac is not supposed to be built up like varnish or lacquer. It will alligator (crack and leave lines)

The perfect shellac finish is the thinnest possible coat that is flawless.
Contrary to what may believe; a French Polish finish while it's beauty and depth are remarkable is actually a very thin finish.

[Mike Shields]

Thanks for the replies.

Product is Zinsser bulls eye shellac clear finish and sealer. I couldn't find anywhere on the label that describes the cut.

I coulda swore I've read over and over that oil and shellac is a favorite finish.
Is it not danish oil, but BLO?

If nothing else, good thing I tried it on scraps!!