Toning

[Adam Cavaliere]

I am looking for some advice on toning. I have read up on it and have an understanding of the process. I am just wondering how much you guys like this process? I am considering doing it for my next project.

I was thinking of first staining the project, then toning to darken it. I figured the first coat of stain could level out any wood differences underneath the toning. My main goal it to get a nice dark finish that hides some of the grain.

I am impressed by the finishes I see on some of the furniture at Crate & Barrel and am trying to achieve that finish.

[David Christopher]

Adam, check out some of the mohawk toners, I ve done a few projects with them and they turned out great and were easy to use.. I think they have videos on the prosess also

[Scott Holmes]

Adam be careful using a lacquer based toner over an oil based stain that uses varnish as the binder. If the varnish binder has not had a month to completely cure; there is a good chance the lacquer thinner in the toner will blister the binder that is holding stain pigment in place.

I like fast drying dye as the base coat then toners; the grain can show through.

[Jamie Schmitz]

Toning is generally done with aniline dyes and the reason for the most part is to keep the wood from going blotchy. Cherry and Maple as you may know tend to look this way if stained with an oil based stain. So if you are going to color the wood before you go to the finish use the dyes. The only downfall perhaps is they can fade over time under certain situations. Toning can be a little tricky if your equipment isn't suitable. Basically it is suspended in the clear coat and so it can look striped.