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Jack Gaskins
01-04-2010, 7:57 PM
Which scrapers should I purchase? Tips on using them.

Allen Neighbors
01-04-2010, 8:05 PM
Jack, I use a Hunter tool now, for turning the inside of small boxes.
But I used a 1/2" bull nose scraper for a few years. My tip is to cut in the (clock face) 9 - 12 o'clock quadrant, taking lighter cuts as you get deeper. I like to hold the scraper at about a 45 degree angle, with the handle low. I can make smoother cuts that way.
Somebody else chime in here, and let's hear some more tips... I can use some, too. :)

Jack Gaskins
01-04-2010, 8:25 PM
Jack, I use a Hunter tool now, for turning the inside of small boxes.
But I used a 1/2" bull nose scraper for a few years. My tip is to cut in the (clock face) 9 - 12 o'clock quadrant, taking lighter cuts as you get deeper. I like to hold the scraper at about a 45 degree angle, with the handle low. I can make smoother cuts that way.
Somebody else chime in here, and let's hear some more tips... I can use some, too. :)


When you say 45 degrees do you mean 45 with the handle pushed away form you or you turn the blade at a 45 bevel?

David E Keller
01-04-2010, 8:39 PM
I use a lot of tools for boxes. I do a lot of the hollowing with a pull cut using a spindle gouge. I also use a 1/2 inch round or square scraper depending on the shape I'm going for. For larger boxes, I sometime use a 1 inch round nose scraper as I find the extra thick tool allows for a little more distance over the rest without chatter.

I also sometimes twist the scraper to get a shear scraping action... It just depends on the wood and how I think it's cutting. Richard Raffan's video on turning boxes is a good one if you are looking for a visual reference.

Bernie Weishapl
01-04-2010, 8:43 PM
Jack I also use a hunter tool, a square scraper and a round nose scraper. I hold the scraper fairly level and the blade at 45 degs. I lay it flat on the tool rest and then turn it 45 deg.

Kyle Iwamoto
01-04-2010, 8:51 PM
I bought the PSI bowl scrapers. Came in a 2 pack, 1 and 3/4 inch I believe. They have a nice long side bevel which I use to straighten the sides of the boxes. That's in addition to a bowl gouge and a Hunter. I use the Hunter where the bowl gouge can't get to. I guess you could get away without the Hunter, if you use the bowl gouge in scraping mode and pull cut from center out. The Hunter is less scary, but not as fast.

For scrapers, more speed is good...... Light touch to true and finish. I have a scraper burnisher to burnish the scraper edge.

Just my $.02.

Reed Gray
01-05-2010, 1:13 AM
I prefer the Kelton hollowers for the roughing, and the Eliminator (carbide disc) for the finish cuts. The Kelton tools are comparable to a 1/4 to 3/8 inch scraper with a more rounded tip. I found the bigger scrapers to be a bit catchy when going from the bottom to the side of the box. I have used a spindle gouge for drilling, and some of the roughing, but found them to be a bit light weight. Using a scraper for roughing, you have it flat on the tool rest, and for finish cutting, you have it up on its edge at about 45 degrees for a shear cut which is a lot cleaner cut, and not as aggressive. The carbide disc tools are really great, and once you learn to use them, sanding at 220 and above is easy. Tried the Soren Berger tool, and never could figure it out. It is better if you want a square corner in the bottom of your box. A radius one is a lot easier. A thin parting tool is a necessity, and I do like a wider one for making a tenon. I use a 1/2 inch square one for cutting the recess on the inside of the box. Almost as many tools as I have for bowls.

robo hippy

Bob Vavricka
01-05-2010, 9:57 AM
I haven't done many boxes, but do have the Berger tool and like it for end grain hollowing. It works best for me if I drill a center depth hole and then hollow. It does make getting a square corner at the bottom pretty easy.
Bob V.

Mike Golka
01-05-2010, 2:34 PM
I have a termite and find it very effective on endgrain. Almost no sanding is required after the finishing cuts.

Jack Gaskins
01-07-2010, 6:47 PM
I prefer the Kelton hollowers for the roughing, and the Eliminator (carbide disc) for the finish cuts. The Kelton tools are comparable to a 1/4 to 3/8 inch scraper with a more rounded tip. I found the bigger scrapers to be a bit catchy when going from the bottom to the side of the box. I have used a spindle gouge for drilling, and some of the roughing, but found them to be a bit light weight. Using a scraper for roughing, you have it flat on the tool rest, and for finish cutting, you have it up on its edge at about 45 degrees for a shear cut which is a lot cleaner cut, and not as aggressive. The carbide disc tools are really great, and once you learn to use them, sanding at 220 and above is easy. Tried the Soren Berger tool, and never could figure it out. It is better if you want a square corner in the bottom of your box. A radius one is a lot easier. A thin parting tool is a necessity, and I do like a wider one for making a tenon. I use a 1/2 inch square one for cutting the recess on the inside of the box. Almost as many tools as I have for bowls.

robo hippy

I was thinking of getting the Penn State or Ray Key radius side cutting and diamon side cutting scrapers and then a large square and round nose scraper from Penn State. Dont know if I want to purchase the scrapers from Penn State or one of the Raffin or Key scrapers from CSUSA.???

Leo Van Der Loo
01-07-2010, 8:16 PM
I have a termite and find it very effective on endgrain. Almost no sanding is required after the finishing cuts.

The same here, use the Termite for the hollowing when end-grain box making, I rather cut than scrape, a hook tool would work well also.

If you are handy at all you can make your own hook tool, have a look at Darrell's site, there's also some videos on how to use them :)

http://aroundthewoods.com/hooktool.shtml

http://aroundthewoods.com/hookuse.shtml

Jack Gaskins
01-07-2010, 8:40 PM
I have a termite and find it very effective on endgrain. Almost no sanding is required after the finishing cuts.

I watched a video on the termite then watched how they sharpen it with a router. Think I'll pass on that one. I think it would be better having a bit that all you need to do is rotate to get a new edge like on one of the carbide roughers. But then again I have never used either one so what do I know :).