Freud P410 saw blade.

[Ken Shoemaker]

Does anyone have experience with this blade. I have a woodworker II and have never liked it from the day I got it. It makes fine splinters on everything I cut, oak, cherry, walnut.

Any thoughts would be helpful. Thanx, Ken



http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/510KVM8CYAL._SL160_AA115_.jpg (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1262652034&sr=8-10)
Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade with 5/8-Inch Arbor and PermaShield Coating (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P410-Premier-10-Inch-PermaShield/dp/B000JNTG76/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1262652034&sr=8-10) by Freud

[Todd Reinbold]

I have one that I picked up a few weeks ago. So far I really like it. I've been building some maple cabinets, and it works great for ripping ,crosscuts , and does better on the plywood than my ww2. I'd buy it again.I bought mine at rockler with a 20% coupon they had out.
Todd

[jerry nazard]

I've had one for about three years, and I am quite pleased. I leave it on the saw except for when I need to rip more than one or two boards. It is a very good all-purpose blade.

[Gary Muto]

I tried the P410 and the WWII. The P410 had a cleaner crosscut surface. It was burnished with no signs of blade swirl. It rips well too.

The WWII did not crosscut as cleanly on my saw.

I also bought the Glue line rip blade and am not as happy with that. It doesn't cut as clean but it is easier to rip with.

[scott spencer]

Ken - I have the new Infinity "Super General" 010-044, which is extremely similar to the P410, and I have spun a WWII, Ridge Carbide TS2000, Tenryu Gold Medal, original Infinity "General" 010-040, Tenryu RS25550, DW7657, DW7640, DW7150PT, CMT 213.040.10, Leitz, Freud LU84, LU86, LU88, LU82, D1060, Avanti TK406, Ridgid R1060, Amana 610504 and other general purpose/combo type blades. I saw Jerry Coles demo the Fusion at a show when it first came out, but have not owned one.

Even though both the Super General and the Fusion have 40 teeth, and are in the same class as the other 40T general purpose blades, these two really have a very different tooth geometry compared to the others, and thus have a different set of strengths than the others. Both of these blades have a 30° Hi-ATB grind and dual side grinds. The Hi-ATB grind has the lowest tearout of all grinds, and the dual side grind means theres' more contact between the side of the teeth and the workpiece, so it leaves a very highly polished edge. The Super General is the cleanest cutting of any 40T or 50T blades I've tried to date, and would assume that the Fusion will have similar traits. For a 40T blade it excels in fine crosscuts, ply, sheetgoods, and clean ripping. That's all good if those are the benefits you need, but there's never a free lunch, and there are pros and cons to every design choice. The downside of this design is that it's not as efficient in very thick ripping, and can be a bit more prone to burning of the saw bogs and binds. The steep points of the Hi-ATB tips are likely to abrade more rapidly than a lower bevel grind, but for hobby use you should still get considerable mileage. It's also worth noting that both are only available in a full kerf.

It sounds to me like your WWII may have had some issues. I've now spun at least 4 WWII's, and all have been excellent...very difficult to differentiate between other premium blades like those mentioned above. Which is best for you really depends on what you're cutting and what specific performance features you're looking for.

[Danny Burns]

Here is a page that has some links to blade tests.

http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2008/01/11/results-from-wood-magazines-table-saw-blade-retest/

Here is the link to Wood Magazines blade test in PDF file form.

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/WOOD-Saw-Blades-II-The-Retest.pdf

The Freud P410 rates high.

[Randal Stevenson]

I tried the P410 and the WWII. The P410 had a cleaner crosscut surface. It was burnished with no signs of blade swirl. It rips well too.

The WWII did not crosscut as cleanly on my saw.

I also bought the Glue line rip blade and am not as happy with that. It doesn't cut as clean but it is easier to rip with.
Ripping blade verses combination/general purpose blade.
Help quantify your answer a little more. How thick was the wood you were ripping for comparison? How much wood?

[Gary Muto]

Ripping blade verses combination/general purpose blade.
Help quantify your answer a little more. How thick was the wood you were ripping for comparison? How much wood?

I was ripping and crosscutting for a cutting board. Hard Maple, Walnut, Yellowheart and some other dense dark wood (darker and denser than Walnut). All were ~1" thick and less than 24" long. The P410 was used for the project and the WWII was tested on scraps from the same. The WWII left swirls on the rips and cross cuts and as mentioned the P410 actually polished the end grain during the cross cuts. Both sides of the cut looked great.

[Ken Shoemaker]

I read reveiws on Am!z*n who reported the blade "burning" more than the Woodworker II. But others said they increased the feed rate and solved the problem.

Your thoughts???? Ken

[Randal Stevenson]

I was ripping and crosscutting for a cutting board. Hard Maple, Walnut, Yellowheart and some other dense dark wood (darker and denser than Walnut). All were ~1" thick and less than 24" long. The P410 was used for the project and the WWII was tested on scraps from the same. The WWII left swirls on the rips and cross cuts and as mentioned the P410 actually polished the end grain during the cross cuts. Both sides of the cut looked great.


Thank you. This goes with where else I heard the preference was for the ripping blade in 2" or better lumber and the general purpose in 1" or less (never heard a definitive answer in between).

[scott spencer]

I read reveiws on Am!z*n who reported the blade "burning" more than the Woodworker II. But others said they increased the feed rate and solved the problem.

Your thoughts???? Ken

The dual side grind and tight side clearance will make the blade more prone to burning...it can go from "burnished" to "burned" if you're not careful. Faster feedrate or raising the saw blade can both help, So can making sure the lumber is flat and straight from the start, good alignment, etc., or you can keep ripping to under 6/4". That's the trade off for potentially more highly polished edges.

[Van Huskey]

The P410 is my favorite blade. I like it better than my WWII for quality of cut. I do have a new 48T WWII I have not tried out yet. I have a TON of blades but unless I am doing a lot of ripping (or 8/4 or thicker) or breaking down a lot of ply panels the P410 stays in the saw.

I honestly am curious if you have an issue with your Forrest, if I were you I would get in touch with Forrest explain your issues and maybe they would check it for you. A sharp WWII just shouldn't give you the kind of issues you describe.