120V Vampire Taps

[Cliff Holmes]

Years ago, we used these things called vampire taps for installing coaxial network cable and low-voltage control wiring. Essentially, you put the existing wire and the new one next to each other in a plastic gizmo with a slotted metal tab, then squeezed the tab into the wires. It would pierce each wire and tie them together electrically.

I'm really tired of wiring in each drop for an outlet using wire nuts. I have to cut and strip nine wires and twist them together, assuming I have enough slack in the existing wire to do this, otherwise I have to replace an entire section.

Do anything like vampire taps exist for 120V wiring? Or is there some other, easier way to tap into an existing 120V line?

[Dave Gaul]

Hopefully someone with more electrical code knowledge will chime in, but I am almost 100% positive what you are asking about does NOT exist for electrical service, even if something like it existed for electrical, I can't imagine it would pass code!
Also, I'm pretty sure that all your junctions must be done inside a wiring or outlet/switch box... you shouldn't see wire nuts when you are done!

There isn't any other way to "tap" your drops for outlets, it's a pain to do, especially after-the-fact, but do it right the first time and it will pay off later!

I just recently wired up my first shop, and I never realized it would be that much work!!!

[John Cooper2]

there are such things for low voltage wiring 3M makes them some are called "suitcase" connectors, but for home wiring I don't think the would be even close for code.

If you have enough slack then cut the line completely add a junction box and do it rite.

[Heath Brandenburg]

I'm not an electrician but am familiar with the taps you're talking about. I've seen them (mis)used in a lot of car audio installs and a few other low voltage DC applications. I wouldn't recommend using these at all, let alone in higher voltage AC wiring.

My folks had a house fire some years ago. The inspector said that it was caused by a staple that had nicked a wire during the initial construction. In essence, the vampire taps will nick the wires you are tapping into and, if you're running shop equipment, you'll be drawing a lot more current than my folks were. It sounds like a recipe for disaster waiting to happen.

If you're looking for a way to make your job easier, I'd recommend investing in a good pair of wire strippers.

[David G Baker]

Cliff,
Check out the electrical area of the Borgs. Don't recall exactly what they look like but it is similar to a terminal block and fits inside of an electrical box. It is used to join several wires to one source instead of using wire nuts it uses screws. The item is fairly new.

[Tom Veatch]

...Essentially, you put the existing wire and the new one next to each other in a plastic gizmo with a slotted metal tab, then squeezed the tab into the wires. ... Do anything like vampire taps exist for 120V wiring?...

They do exist and, at least in this area, are carried by Home Depot. A few weeks ago, I used a set of 12ga size to tap into an existing circuit to get power to a sump pump in one of my outbuildings.

[Roger Frazee]

Years ago, we used these things called vampire taps for installing coaxial network cable and low-voltage control wiring. Essentially, you put the existing wire and the new one next to each other in a plastic gizmo with a slotted metal tab, then squeezed the tab into the wires. It would pierce each wire and tie them together electrically.

I'm really tired of wiring in each drop for an outlet using wire nuts. I have to cut and strip nine wires and twist them together, assuming I have enough slack in the existing wire to do this, otherwise I have to replace an entire section.

Do anything like vampire taps exist for 120V wiring? Or is there some other, easier way to tap into an existing 120V line?

Cliff

Could you go into more detail on why your having to cut and strip 9 wires in order to run a drop to a receptacle?

[Cliff Holmes]

Could you go into more detail on why your having to cut and strip 9 wires in order to run a drop to a receptacle?

Split the main line. You now have three wires on one side, three on the other, and three coming from the drop.

[Roger Frazee]

http://www.wago.com/cms/images/Installationskl3-g.jpg

Sorry I wasn't very clear in what I asked. So let me back up and just address doing it as you are in a jb above the receptacle. If you would like to try a bit easier method you might give wago's a try. These are called push in connectors and do a fine job of splicing wire as an alternative to wire nuts. They come in several different combinations from 2 to 8 terminations per connector. They look like this.... you still have to strip the wire.


athttp://www.naturallighting.com/images/cat_image/quick_connectors.jpg
(http://www.naturallighting.com/images/cat_image/quick_connectors.jpg)

[Cliff Holmes]

Hmm, those look very interesting. It appears you can put the wires in one at a time? One of the major pains is getting all three wires lined up at once for a wire nut, these would at least make it easier. Now I need to find someone selling them in bags of less than 500 :eek:

Can you pull the wires back out? Or is this a one-way trip?

I also found an auto-adjusting wire stripper that will strip romex jackets and multiple wires at one shot, that'll be cool.

[Roger Frazee]

Hmm, those look very interesting. It appears you can put the wires in one at a time? One of the major pains is getting all three wires lined up at once for a wire nut, these would at least make it easier. Now I need to find someone selling them in bags of less than 500 :eek:

Can you pull the wires back out? Or is this a one-way trip?

I also found an auto-adjusting wire stripper that will strip romex jackets and multiple wires at one shot, that'll be cool.

You can pull the wires back out by using a small screw driver on some and I think Ideal also has a way to remove the wires. There is also a test port so you can check for voltage and continuity.

I'll try to post up the links for the instructions and more detail info.

You can get these at the big box but the manufacturer may vary. Ideal, Wago and Gardner Bender make them. Wago's are the only ones to my knowledge that will handle stranded wire if that is your wiring method. All of them will terminate solid.

If you think you will tap the junction box again then just install a connector with another port that is unused.

[Roger Frazee]

Cliff

I stumbled across this picture of some being used in a junction box. The workmanship is not good but it gives you an idea.....


http://www.diychatroom.com/attachments/f18/9779d1240275625-opinions-ideal-push-wire-connectors-505340065_hmcyr-m.jpg

[Roger Frazee]

Cliff

Here is the link to the ideal brand push connector for both stranded and solid wire. Looks like ideal has made them to accept stranded.

http://www.idealindustries.com/media/pdfs/products/brochures/p-2854_in-sure_brochure.pdf

http://www.idealindustries.com/prodDetail.do?prodId=in-sure&div=0&l1=push-in

[Jeff Nolan]

lighting fixtures are increasingly coming with those push in connectors. I love 'em, they work really well and no more wire nuts.

[Jim Becker]

No. Your branching must be in a j-box or in the outlet box if you're chaining to meet code. For the latter, it's best to use pigtails so there is only one set of connections to the outlet, itself. (Don't undersize your boxes... ;) )

I personally do not like "push in" type connectors on outlets...I have experienced major problems with them over the years. I do like the straight-cut screw terminals on the "commercial" style outlets from Leviton and others where you strip, insert and then screw down. I've not had them let go ever.

[Justin Freund]

Like said above, your wires must be in a properly sized box and secured with the proper clamps. If you have nine conductors like you say, it'll be a big box. I use the Ideal connectors all the time and have no qualms about it. Halo includes them in a lot of their recessed light too. They make connections much much faster. Plus the wires rotate and stay separate unlike if they wire wirenutted together making it much easier to cram them into boxes. If you feel uneasy about them letting go of the wires, try and pull one one out after inserting it properly. Without either using a pin in the release hole or crushing the connector, there is no way to pull it out. Pulling only makes it tighter.