Need Input on Table Top

[Brian J Smith]

So, I have wanted to build a cherry table for a while, I haven't picked which style at this point, but I recently found some lumber that I couldn't pass on, so I purchased it prior to X-mas.

My question is do include the sapwood in the table top? I have enough lumber that is 4/4 finished, quartersawn, from the same tree, same quarter to make a top that is 48" without the sapwood, or with it. I just think these boards it might make sense to use the sapwood parts when you look at the pictures. I have 2 other boards of 6" each not in the photos.

As you might be able to tell the centerboard isn't perfect, and my thoughts have been so far make clean cuts and remove the sapwood from it, and then place the other board's sapwood next to the center board. That way the table when completed it will have heartwood on the outside, but have an interesting pattern. It will show that it was from one tree.

Also any comments are welcome this will be the biggest project that I have (taken on/attempted) at this point. Table style, Finishing, how to glue up these puppies...

Bjs

Here are higher resolution photos...

http://picasaweb.google.com/scubabjs/WoodWorking#5422744400279312034

http://picasaweb.google.com/scubabjs/WoodWorking#5422744803638846658

[Robert Chapman]

I think that I would remove the sapwood so that your surface would be more uniform instead of having the sapwood stripes. But that is just one man's opinion. I'll be interested in how your project goes as I am about to start a 7' dining table out of walnut.

[Rick Thom]

I would remove it too.

[Frank Drew]

I've never left the sapwood on, but I know many others here feel differently.

More importantly, I finally stopped using any stains on cherry; in my experience, if the material is halfway decent it always turns a better, more interesting, color if left alone with just a clear finish.

[Daniel Kennedy]

I just posted a cherry table in the projects section. I used wider wood though. I left the sapwood because I like how it looks. Here is the link: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=127919

If you leave the sapwood, just make sure that you have sapwood along both edges of the glue up. That way you don't get any straight lines of contrast along the glue line.

I jointed the edges by hand, If you want some more info I'll be happy to share. Good luck.

[Bill Huber]

I like the way Daniel did it, it give the table unique look and will be different then any other table.


I do have a newbie type question on the wood.

How can it have sapwood on both sides of the board if it is quartersawn. I thought that they quartered a log and then cut quartersawn boards out of the quarters.

[Daniel Kennedy]

How can it have sapwood on both sides of the board if it is quartersawn. I thought that they quartered a log and then cut quartersawn boards out of the quarters.

It looks like the center board is not quartersawn, however the grain on both sides of that board is the same as quartersawn. The rest of the wood, if it is quartersawn, will only have the sapwood on one edge.

[Frank Drew]

Bill,

True quarter sawing, cutting the log into pie wedge shaped quarters before sawing the boards, isn't done so much these days, but there are other sawing methods that will give you straight grained material (both rift and "quartered").

You can get sapwood on both edges if you cut the log through-and-through, also called flitch cutting; the very center of the log, with the truest quartered material, can't be used full width because of the log's pith, but you can saw close to the center and get reasonably straight grained wide boards.

[Brian J Smith]

Yes, the centerboard isn't Quartersawn, it's a cross cut of the tree, the other boards are all quartersawn from the same tree, and I have matching slabs so that if there is 6" board with 1" of sapwood on the left of the centerboard, I could do the same on the mirror side.

Why do you say glue sapwood to sapwood? Is there some movement issues in gluing up sapwood to heartwood?

I guess I could trim everything up and lay the wood out and if I don't like the sapwood remove it later, just a run threw the tablesaw and joiner again.

[Daniel Kennedy]

The reason I say glue sapwood to sapwood is to give the table a seamless look. If you have sapwood on one side and heartwood on the other side you will have a very obvious glue line. I believe you are on to the right way to go about it as far as cutting it out and seeing how you like the layout.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I personally like the contrast that sapwood and heartwood creates. The other part of me says, "you paid for it, may as well use it."

Nice tabletop Daniel.

[Stephen Edwards]

More importantly, I finally stopped using any stains on cherry; in my experience, if the material is halfway decent it always turns a better, more interesting, color if left alone with just a clear finish.

Amen. I've never, personally, cared for stains on cherry wood. I much prefer the natural color with a clear finish.

[Chris Tsutsui]

I like wood for what it is. Sapwood, knots, and worm damage is a part of the character of wood that makes it unique.

Same with the mistakes in the fabrication process. :D