Table Saw

[Bob Haskett]

I recently asked whether the Craftsman 21833 was a good buy. I seemed to get mixed opinions. I did readas well as some good reviews on LJ. It got a favorable review from an owner. It has a riving knife (I would think this is a big plus for a beginner). I have been shopping for a table saw for 8 months. Nothing seems to be popping up on CL, or for sale in the paper. So, I am looking at buying new. I have $700 to spend and not a dime more. So, that being said what would you buy, if you had $700 to spend. I understand that a G1023SL would be awesome and they are on sale, but I am just not getting the blessing to buy anything over 650-700. So, with that extremely strict budget, what would you buy?

[David Prince]

I don't have a problem with Craftsman. I own several Craftsman tools, but don't have any attraction to their tablesaws. I had good luck with a couple of Delta Contractor saws in the past, but don't really like their new models. Personally, I would get the Grizzly. On sale for $644 total. I have a Grizzly 0690 and am very happy with it.

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-Table-Saw-2-HP-Single-Phase-220V-w-Cast-Wings/G0444Z

[Bob Haskett]

Only thing bad there is I do not have 220v available.

[Jim O'Dell]

Bob, the saw David linked to is their contractor saw that is 2hp and runs on 110 or 220 volt. The 690 he has is 220 only.
That being said, the Craftsman saws are reportedly made by Orion, who makes the Steel City saws, and it is possible the one you are looking at is a hybrid saw that would be closer to a cabinet saw than a contractor saw. Many people have reported that they are happy with the new Craftsman units. Jim.

[Chris Harry]

I know you mentioned you couldnt find a Ridgid 4511.....did you call each HD near you to ask? Or did you actually go to each store and look?

I bet if you went to each store and looked around (both on the floor and in overhead storage) you might actually be able to find one.

Of our 3 or 4 local stores, only 1 has any 4511s on the floor. BUT, all of the stores have SOME, most are just in overhead storage. There is also no other display of the saw, so no one really knows it even exists (much less that the price just dropped to 499)

Ive seen that Sears saw in person, and its not bad. I personally didnt like the steel wings, but it seems they are just as good as CI....or you could always upgrade to CI if you wanted

[Bob Haskett]

I know you mentioned you couldnt find a Ridgid 4511.....did you call each HD near you to ask? Or did you actually go to each store and look?

I bet if you went to each store and looked around (both on the floor and in overhead storage) you might actually be able to find one.

Of our 3 or 4 local stores, only 1 has any 4511s on the floor. BUT, all of the stores have SOME, most are just in overhead storage. There is also no other display of the saw, so no one really knows it even exists (much less that the price just dropped to 499)

Ive seen that Sears saw in person, and its not bad. I personally didnt like the steel wings, but it seems they are just as good as CI....or you could always upgrade to CI if you wanted

I physically went and looked. The one closest to me had one about 3 months ago but it is gone now.

[Greg Wittler]

If I was going to get a Craftsman saw that runs on 110, it would be this one,

http://www.searsoutlet.com/d/product_details.jsp?pid=9200&ind=2&source=googleps

which is below $700 but unfortunately far from Tennessee. Your best bet is to keep looking, maybe if there is a Sears Outlet near you, make a few friends and have them let you know if one of these deals comes through your neck of the woods. I just got my table saw this past friday and believe me I waited a long time for it and I will be waiting even longer until I can revamp the garage from a junk storage room into a usable shop.

good Luck,

Greg

[Myk Rian]

I have a Steel City Hybrid cabinet. Nice saw. The C-mans are the same thing. I would recommend them.

[scott spencer]

Bob - Whatever you get, buy the saw, not the name. The market place changes so much, so fast that basing any decisions on brand alone is difficult, so it's best to evaluate each one on it's own merit. Whatever was good in the past, likely has little to do with whatever tool carries that same name plate today. There have been some really good Craftsman hybrid saws in the past few years....the Orion made hybrids are well proven and very well liked by owners. I'm not sure if the 21833 is made by Orion (a Steel City subsidiary who also makes the Ridgid R4511). It appears very different than the Orion saws.

For $700 new, I'd include the 21833, (22114 or 22124 if you can find a deal), the Ridgid R4511, Grizzly G0444Z (http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-Table-Saw-2-HP-Single-Phase-220V-w-Cast-Wings/G0444Z), Shop Fox W1725 (http://grizzly.com/products/W1725-Shop-Fox-1-1-2HP-Left-Tilt-Saw/T21853), Delta 36-980, Steel City 35920 (http://www.toolking.com/steel-city-35920-10-inch-granite-cabinet-table-saw?___store=default), Jet Workshop (http://www.amazon.com/708100-JWTS-10-10-Inch-WorkShop-Table/dp/B000BHNAJK/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1262609232&sr=1-20) on sale, (possibly Jet Proshop on sale), and even the Hitachi C10FL, then would weigh the pros and cons of each, and would start narrowing the field from that list.

You're going to want to add a decent blade to almost any new saw you get, so save at least $40-$50 for a blade unless you can grab that later on.

[Hugh Jardon]

Bob,

There's a R4511 in HD #1777, Kennesaw GA. Depending on where you are in TN, it might be worth the trip. $499 is the price, and it was there yesterday. If you're in Chattanooga, it would be a short trip down 75. If you're in Nashville, maybe not!

[Bob Haskett]

Bob - Whatever you get, buy the saw, not the name. The market place changes so much, so fast that basing any decisions on brand alone is difficult, so it's best to evaluate each one on it's own merit. Whatever was good in the past, likely has little to do with whatever tool carries that same name plate today. There have been some really good Craftsman hybrid saws in the past few years....the Orion made hybrids are well proven and very well liked by owners. I'm not sure if the 21833 is made by Orion (a Steel City subsidiary who also makes the Ridgid R4511). It appears very different than the Orion saws.

For $700 new, I'd include the 21833, (22114 or 22124 if you can find a deal), the Ridgid R4511, Grizzly G0444Z (http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/10-Table-Saw-2-HP-Single-Phase-220V-w-Cast-Wings/G0444Z), Shop Fox W1725 (http://grizzly.com/products/W1725-Shop-Fox-1-1-2HP-Left-Tilt-Saw/T21853), Delta 36-980, Steel City 35920 (http://www.toolking.com/steel-city-35920-10-inch-granite-cabinet-table-saw?___store=default), Jet Workshop (http://www.amazon.com/708100-JWTS-10-10-Inch-WorkShop-Table/dp/B000BHNAJK/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1262609232&sr=1-20) on sale, (possibly Jet Proshop on sale), and even the Hitachi C10FL, then would weigh the pros and cons of each, and would start narrowing the field from that list.

You're going to want to add a decent blade to almost any new saw you get, so save at least $40-$50 for a blade unless you can grab that later on.

Hate to put you out more than I already have seeing as how you put a lot of time into that post, but is there any order you would put those saws in? It is kind of intimidating buying a 700 dollar tool knowing so little about them. Looking at all the tools you listed, it seems like the Steel City 35920 is hard to beat for that price. Has a fully enclosed cabinet, cabinet mounted trunions, riving knife etc, but then again, Miter slots are 3/4”x3/8” grooves with no T-Slot.

[scott spencer]

It's really a personal choice and matter of your preference. What's important to me might not be important to you, so it's best you choose.

Some are hybrids, some are traditional contractor saws with the motor hanging out the back. While the hybrid format has design advantages, many of the hybrids in this range don't offer fences that are as nice as those on something like the Grizzly or Shop Fox contractor saws. Some have cabinet mounted trunnions, some table mounted trunnions. Some of the saws have steel wings, some solid cast iron (or granite). Some have better warranty than others, some have inserts that are easier to buy or make, etc. Those are all things that I'd put into consideration. They all have similar motor power. Those with shorter belts (hybrids) tend to have more efficient transfer of that motor power. Those with cabinet mounted trunnions tend to be easier to get aligned well. Alignment and blade choice have a huge impact on the end performance. Once aligned well and equipped with a good blade, all have the potential to perform well (that's why I suggested budgeting for a blade).

Since I have owned a Craftsman 22124, I'd have no hesitation recommending that saw if you can find one within budget. It has cabinet mounted trunnions and an excellent Biesemeyer fence, a decent stock blade, and 12" cast iron wings. (made by Orion). The Steel City 35920 and Ridgid R4511 are cousins...all by Orion, all with cabinet mounted trunnions. The 35920 and R4511 have a true riving knife, granite top, an elegant one-piece cast arbor carriage, and a different fence than the 22124.

I've also owned a GI 50-185 contractor saw that was a very similar design to the Griz and Shop Fox contractor saws. The GI was a capable saw with the disadvantage of an outboard motor and table mounted trunnions. I preferred my 22124, but both served me well.

You can get a very good saw within budget, but it's not likely that within that price range you'll find one saw that has every advantage listed. That's why you'll need to decide what you think you can live with and what will bother you. HTH.

Scott

[Bob Haskett]

First of all, thanks for all your help so far.

Well here is what I know. I would like cabinet mounted trunions. Would not mind sacrificing the fence up front and upgrade it later. The motor cannot be hanging out the back due to space problems. It needs to have a mobile base, preferably it would come with one to save money. Riving knife would be a HUGE plus.

What are the advantages of the different steel/granite wings? Why is CI so much better than steel wings?

[scott spencer]

First of all, thanks for all your help so far.

Well here is what I know. I would like cabinet mounted trunions. Would not mind sacrificing the fence up front and upgrade it later. The motor cannot be hanging out the back due to space problems. It needs to have a mobile base, preferably it would come with one to save money. Riving knife would be a HUGE plus.

What are the advantages of the different steel/granite wings? Why is CI so much better than steel wings?

Cabinet mounted trunnions narrows you down to the Steel City/Orion offerings...Craftsman 22114, 22124, Ridgid R4511, and the Steel City 35920. All have functional fences, but some have upgraded the fence on the 22114 and R4511 (similar fence on the 35920). The 21833, Jet Workshop, and Hitachi C10FL have inboard motors, even if they are called "contractor saws" by their description, but all have table mounted trunions. Of those, only the R4511, SC35920, and 21833 have riving knives, though an aftermarket ************ can be added to the 22114 and 22124.

Cast iron is much heavier and stronger than steel...CI is a "nice to have" feature that and can be upgraded later. Just about any 27" deep CI wings can easily be made to fit other 27" deep saws. Granite is heavier than both, though I doubt it's any stronger than CI. It's supposedly flatter and is obviously less prone to rust....the downside is potential breakage, but it's pretty tough stuff and is supposedly easy to repair. Most owners are having good luck with it, but it's much less proven than CI.

[Hugh Jardon]

Steel wings are a no-no because they are flexible, but you'll not likely find them on a $700 saw anyway.

CI is dead flat, very stable, and rusts easily (inside a day) in humid air if not protected. It can sometimes warp in cold climates.

Granite is dead flat, immensely heavy and stable, and is more brittle than CI. It will never rust, but may chip. Some chips can be repaired though.

I have a cast iron contractor saw (RIDGID TS3660) and a granite hybrid (RIDGID R4511). The CI saw is a good allrounder, but is a contractor style, with guts hanging out the back, dust collection is mediocre at best though. The granite saw is very heavy (450lbs (275 for the TS3660)), very stable. The front fence rail is, however, toilet. The fence itself is ok, but not as smooth as the aluminum setup on the 3660.

I think if I put a a smooth one piece rail on the 4511, I will have it all (at least in this price class). Riving knife, enclosed base, 4" dust port, massively heavy, mobile base built in, cabinet mounted trunnions.

[Bob Haskett]

Cabinet mounted trunnions narrows you down to the Steel City/Orion offerings...Craftsman 22114, 22124, Ridgid R4511, and the Steel City 35920. All have functional fences, but some have upgraded the fence on the 22114 and R4511 (similar fence on the 35920). The 21833, Jet Workshop, and Hitachi C10FL have inboard motors, even if they are called "contractor saws" by their description, but all have table mounted trunions. Of those, only the R4511, SC35920, and 21833 have riving knives, though an aftermarket ************ can be added to the 22114 and 22124.

Cast iron is much heavier and stronger than steel...CI is a "nice to have" feature that and can be upgraded later. Just about any 27" deep CI wings can easily be made to fit other 27" deep saws. Granite is heavier than both, though I doubt it's any stronger than CI. It's supposedly flatter and is obviously less prone to rust....the downside is potential breakage, but it's pretty tough stuff and is supposedly easy to repair. Most owners are having good luck with it, but it's much less proven than CI.

I know cabinet mounted trunnions makes the saw more precise, but how much are we talking?

[Alan Schwabacher]

It's more a question of ease of realignment. You can make a contractor's saw with table mounted trunnions very accurate. It's just that it's more trouble to get it that way, and there are a few more ways to knock it out of alignment.

[Chris Harry]

Steel wings are a no-no because they are flexible, but you'll not likely find them on a $700 saw anyway.

CI is dead flat, very stable, and rusts easily (inside a day) in humid air if not protected. It can sometimes warp in cold climates.

Granite is dead flat, immensely heavy and stable, and is more brittle than CI. It will never rust, but may chip. Some chips can be repaired though.

I have a cast iron contractor saw (RIDGID TS3660) and a granite hybrid (RIDGID R4511). The CI saw is a good allrounder, but is a contractor style, with guts hanging out the back, dust collection is mediocre at best though. The granite saw is very heavy (450lbs (275 for the TS3660)), very stable. The front fence rail is, however, toilet. The fence itself is ok, but not as smooth as the aluminum setup on the 3660.

I think if I put a a smooth one piece rail on the 4511, I will have it all (at least in this price class). Riving knife, enclosed base, 4" dust port, massively heavy, mobile base built in, cabinet mounted trunnions.

Agreed on all counts. I had a Ridgid 3660 and jumped at the chance to upgrade to the 4511 (the 3660 was still within return period when the 4511 showed up along with the Ultimate Power Tool deal)

The fence was awesome on the 3660, not so much on the 4511. I actually built a single (much longer!) rail setup for the stock fence, then got a really good deal on an Incra setup. Either option is much better than the stock setup alone.

But, that was the only negative for me going from the 3660 to the 4511. The dust collection is better, no more motor hanging off the back (just like you, I needed all the room I could get), the extra weight seems to make a HUGE difference...the first time I fired it up it was so quiet and smooth my first reaction was its a much more "professional level" saw. Riving knife for safety, etc. Ive never regretted the decision to upgrade, even if it did require taking apart my 3660 and lugging it back to the store.

Your list of requirements actually *screams* a good hybrid. Its ashame you cant locate a 4511.....perhaps look at the Steel City version of it? I forget the model # off hand.

[Stephen Edwards]

Bob, I found a R4511 at a HD near you. I sent the details to you via PM. Good luck with your search and your decision.

Best Wishes,

[scott spencer]

Bob, I found a R4511 at a HD near you. I sent the details to you via PM. Good luck with your search and your decision.

Best Wishes,

Can't beat service like that! :)

[Bob Haskett]

Bob, I found a R4511 at a HD near you. I sent the details to you via PM. Good luck with your search and your decision.

Best Wishes,

Thanks Stephen. I replied to your PM. I really appreciate that. After lunch today I actually called HD Customer service and spoke with a lady named Beth. She was extremely helpful and was able to track down one in Nashville. I am going to check it out today or tomorrow. If it is gone I may be heading down your way!

[Chris Harry]

Can't beat service like that! :)

Yeah, internet rules!!!

Ive never bothered calling HD though :) I regularly spend time wandering around looking in overhead though! I think HD thinks Im some sort of secret shopper, or someone from corporate or something.

or maybe just a random weirdo who sees things on top shelves

[Bob Haskett]

Thanks for all the help guys, I actually bought a R4511 tonight with a 10% off coupon. I was out of there at $485. I just got it unpacked and started putting it together, I didn't get far before I realized there were a few missing screws and nuts. Anyone ever have this problem before?

Anyway, I guess I'll have to go buy the nuts and bolts I need tomorrow to finish. But seems like a great saw. A few pieces are dinged up, but the granite top seems in good shape.

[Christopher Morgan]

Hi, Bob.

I didn't have any missing pieces in mine. But I do have one tip if you haven't seen it before: For details on what fasteners to use, the figures in the "Ridgid 10 in Table Saw Model No. R4511 Repair Sheet" are very helpful. The letters on the plastic bags the fasteners come in refer to the diagrams in this book, not the Manual. The Repair Sheet was not in my box, but if you don't have it, send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward it to you.

-- Christopher


Thanks for all the help guys, I actually bought a R4511 tonight with a 10% off coupon. I was out of there at $485. I just got it unpacked and started putting it together, I didn't get far before I realized there were a few missing screws and nuts. Anyone ever have this problem before?

Anyway, I guess I'll have to go buy the nuts and bolts I need tomorrow to finish. But seems like a great saw. A few pieces are dinged up, but the granite top seems in good shape.

[Bob Haskett]

Hi, Bob.

I didn't have any missing pieces in mine. But I do have one tip if you haven't seen it before: For details on what fasteners to use, the figures in the "Ridgid 10 in Table Saw Model No. R4511 Repair Sheet" are very helpful. The letters on the plastic bags the fasteners come in refer to the diagrams in this book, not the Manual. The Repair Sheet was not in my box, but if you don't have it, send me a PM with your email address and I'll forward it to you.

-- Christopher

Thanks for the tip, I actually accidentally realized that at the beginning. I opened it up as if it were the install manual and saw the figure letters. After thoroughly looking through everything, I am missing the M12 hex flange nuts, the ubolt, the ubolt tube, and the 4 casters.

[Christopher Morgan]

Sorry to hear that -- I am sure it is frustrating. It seems like it will be a great saw, though, once it is all put together.

I found that I was able to get the main parts of the saw together pretty smoothly without any help by leaning the saw on its back onto another (padded) pallet, attaching the stand, then attaching the dust chute, then attaching the lift, and then heaving the whole assembly upright. It sure isn't a lightweight, though.


Thanks for the tip, I actually accidentally realized that at the beginning. I opened it up as if it were the install manual and saw the figure letters. After thoroughly looking through everything, I am missing the M12 hex flange nuts, the ubolt, the ubolt tube, and the 4 casters.

[Chris Harry]

Thanks for the tip, I actually accidentally realized that at the beginning. I opened it up as if it were the install manual and saw the figure letters. After thoroughly looking through everything, I am missing the M12 hex flange nuts, the ubolt, the ubolt tube, and the 4 casters.

Congrats on finding one!! Bummer on the missing parts.

Ridgid customer service actually seems to be fairly helpful, just call em up Im sure they'll send the parts out to you. I needed a replacement belt for mine (the original one was twisted like a pretzel), and they sent me one no problem. It wasnt *quick* by any means, but I did get it.

It sounds like you are missing parts for the Herculift only. Did you re-check the packaging to make sure they didnt get stuck somewhere? I doubt it, I think everything was in boxes, but you never know. Maybe inside the saw somewhere? :)

[Bob Haskett]

Congrats on finding one!! Bummer on the missing parts.

Ridgid customer service actually seems to be fairly helpful, just call em up Im sure they'll send the parts out to you. I needed a replacement belt for mine (the original one was twisted like a pretzel), and they sent me one no problem. It wasnt *quick* by any means, but I did get it.

It sounds like you are missing parts for the Herculift only. Did you re-check the packaging to make sure they didnt get stuck somewhere? I doubt it, I think everything was in boxes, but you never know. Maybe inside the saw somewhere? :)

I sure did. I looked inside the saw, went through every bit of packaging again, no luck. At the HD where I bought one they had one that was damaged and was missing parts. I am going to go there and see if they will let me take the casters and screws. They already have to order parts for it anyway.

[Hugh Jardon]

Congrats on the new saw and welcome to the R4511 club! Next you'll be asking about extended rails, how to get the T-square to lock down straight and how to fit a router table :)

It's a shame on the missing pieces, but even so, it's a great saw, and you got one! RIDGID CS will send you the missing pieces for free, and replace the damaged ones, but you will have to wait for them. Is it possible the pieces were just badly labelled and you missed them, or used the wrong bolts etc elsewhere? Although it's a great saw, the small parts packaging is one area where they did not invest much. In contrast to the steel tube shell it comes in!

It doesn't seem all that long ago that there were threads asking where you could buy one as it was just being introduced. Now there are threads asking where you could buy one as it's on the way out!

[Bob Haskett]

Is it possible the pieces were just badly labelled and you missed them, or used the wrong bolts etc elsewhere? Although it's a great saw, the small parts packaging is one area where they did not invest much.

I thought about this, but the only bolts I had really used were the ones to put the legs together, and I have looked back over that part and everything I used was correct. I unpacked it in my empty garage and have not thrown anything away. Ive looked over and over again and I definately have no casters, no U Bolt, no U bolt tube, or the flanged M12 nuts. I have everything else I do believe.

[Derek Gilmer]

The ridgid forums have a HUGE amount of detail about setting up and tuning the R4511 I'd suggest looking around there as well.

[Chris Harry]

I sure did. I looked inside the saw, went through every bit of packaging again, no luck. At the HD where I bought one they had one that was damaged and was missing parts. I am going to go there and see if they will let me take the casters and screws. They already have to order parts for it anyway.

Check and re-check every other part, my experience is that, if its a "nice" HD, they will let you take any part you need.

I was able to swap the main table and one of the wings because the granite was chipped/didnt match up. Along with the new belt. HD didnt seem to mind because the saw had to go back once I took any part (they even pulled it down from overhead and had it waiting for me, and helped me swap the main granite tables)

And it also wouldnt surprise me if they never intend on ordering parts for it....it apparently really is discontinued, so who knows it might just end up as an "as-is" sale.

[Bob Haskett]

The ridgid forums have a HUGE amount of detail about setting up and tuning the R4511 I'd suggest looking around there as well.

I just checked over at the Ridgid forums. Seems as if there are a few people who have ended up with 2 bags of the same bolts, missing 1 bag of bolts. So I guess this has happened before.

I am off to Home Depot to see if I can get the parts before having to go through CS.

[Bob Haskett]

I was at home depot and got everything I need out of a damaged box but the flange hex nuts for the casters. I thought it would be in the bag with the casters but when I got home it was not, so I am just going to buy the nuts and be done with it. I should have this thing built tonight...Pics to come!

[Hugh Jardon]

That's sad really, I mean production quality control is under question here, and if a company gets that wrong, it's all downhill from there.

Anyway, you can solve your issues with a call to RIDGID Customer Service, they will send you free replacements, and I would also mention the damaged parts you spoke of earlier.

This does seem at odds with my experience of RIDGID products, they have always been excellent right of the box for me, though I have heard of other tales of woe with the R4511. It's mentioned in the same sentence as the saw being discontinued. Not so much the saw is bad, but transport and distribution have been a major issue for them on this saw.

Get on the phone, wait patiently for the mailman for a week or so, and you'll be right. At least you got one!

[Bob Haskett]

the damaged parts you spoke of earlier.


On my saw there is a pretty good dent in the cabinet, 4 dings in the fence, several scratches in the granite but none of them deep, no chips so overall I would say the granite is in OK shape. The rest is minor. I would return it for another one if it was not so much trouble. My wife and I barely got it out of my truck, there is no way we could put it back in and take it back. It seems perfectly usable though. Can't wait to get it running.

[Chris Harry]

On my saw there is a pretty good dent in the cabinet, 4 dings in the fence, several scratches in the granite but none of them deep, no chips so overall I would say the granite is in OK shape. The rest is minor. I would return it for another one if it was not so much trouble. My wife and I barely got it out of my truck, there is no way we could put it back in and take it back.

A bunch of people on the Ridgid forum had success making HD pick up the existing saw at the same time as dropping off a replacement. Only a good option if they have a 2nd new in box saw, but an option nonetheless. (I would pre-check the saw at the store before they sent it over, to be sure its OK)

[Bob Haskett]

A bunch of people on the Ridgid forum had success making HD pick up the existing saw at the same time as dropping off a replacement. Only a good option if they have a 2nd new in box saw, but an option nonetheless. (I would pre-check the saw at the store before they sent it over, to be sure its OK)

Thanks for the suggestion. There are other R4511s in my area, but the particular store I bought it from is out. I wonder if they would do this with another store?

Due to the fact that none of the damage affects the saw's usability, I will most likely just hang on to it though.

[Stephen Edwards]

Thanks for the suggestion. There are other R4511s in my area, but the particular store I bought it from is out. I wonder if they would do this with another store?

Due to the fact that none of the damage affects the saw's usability, I will most likely just hang on to it though.

Bob, like you, I wouldn't worry about the minor dents and scratches, either. Now that you have acquired the missing parts, put it together and tune your new saw!

The one thing that I'd really check closely is the fence. You want to be sure that the fence is straight. A couple of dings wouldn't bother me but they may be an indication of further damage that you haven't noticed; Probably not, but you should check that to be sure.

I had called the Lebanon, TN store for you yesterday, as I think I mentioned in my PM to you. The only one that they had left was the floor model and they wouldn't sell it. I asked the person that I was speaking with to ask the manager if they'd sell it for a super duper clearance deal! He asked and the manager said no.

In the course of the conversation they guy told me that they may or may not get a notice from the home office in a month or two to drop the price and clear it out.

For what it's worth, he also told me that they may just return all of the remaining saws (the ones that are still boxed) in their stores to where ever they return them so that the granite tops could be repackaged and sold with the newer version of the saw that's coming out. Of course, I take that with a grain of salt 'cause he may not know anymore about that than I do!

Congratulations on your new saw. I bet you'll really enjoy it.

[scott spencer]

Thanks for the suggestion. There are other R4511s in my area, but the particular store I bought it from is out. I wonder if they would do this with another store?

Due to the fact that none of the damage affects the saw's usability, I will most likely just hang on to it though.

Bob - Usable as it is, considering the cosmetic damage and the hoops you've needed to jump through, I think you're entitled to something for your trouble. Maybe the manager would grant you another 10%, or possibly something like the Ridgid R1050C or Ridgid R1060C blade as compensation...it's worth mentioning.

[Bob Haskett]

Bob, like you, I wouldn't worry about the minor dents and scratches, either. Now that you have acquired the missing parts, put it together and tune your new saw!

The one thing that I'd really check closely is the fence. You want to be sure that the fence is straight. A couple of dings wouldn't bother me but they may be an indication of further damage that you haven't noticed; Probably not, but you should check that to be sure.

I had called the Lebanon, TN store for you yesterday, as I think I mentioned in my PM to you. The only one that they had left was the floor model and they wouldn't sell it. I asked the person that I was speaking with to ask the manager if they'd sell it for a super duper clearance deal! He asked and the manager said no.

In the course of the conversation they guy told me that they may or may not get a notice from the home office in a month or two to drop the price and clear it out.

For what it's worth, he also told me that they may just return all of the remaining saws (the ones that are still boxed) in their stores to where ever they return them so that the granite tops could be repackaged and sold with the newer version of the saw that's coming out. Of course, I take that with a grain of salt 'cause he may not know anymore about that than I do!

Congratulations on your new saw. I bet you'll really enjoy it.

Thanks for all the legwork you did Stephen, based on your PM you gave me the idea to call around and have the other stores physically look for overstock, for that I am grateful. Hopefully I can figure out how to tune this thing and get to sawing!

Good suggestion on looking for further damage. I will do that tonight.

[Bob Haskett]

Bob - Usable as it is, considering the cosmetic damage and the hoops you've needed to jump through, I think you're entitled to something for your trouble. Maybe the manager would grant you another 10%, or possibly something like the Ridgid R1050C or Ridgid R1060C blade as compensation...it's worth mentioning.

I was actually going to ask about the blade. It comes with a Ridgid blade but is it worth buying a different blade from the getgo? If so what blade would you recommend?

[Bob Haskett]

Got all the parts home and got started. When I went back in to get the last few nuts (the ones that were left out the second time) I mentioned a discount per Scott's advice. I got another 10% off. So 499 saw at 20% off works for me!

Everything is done up to the point of lifting the cabinet onto the leg stand. My wife and I cannot do this, and my neighbor is not home, so as soon as I get that piece done the rest of the assembly should be done in no time. I cant wait to try it out! My wife already caught me shopping for jointers and planers...LOL...she quickly closed the lid on my laptop and reminded me of my promise that her new comforter and sheets were next...

[scott spencer]

I was actually going to ask about the blade. It comes with a Ridgid blade but is it worth buying a different blade from the getgo? If so what blade would you recommend?

The stock Ridgid blade sucks. The Ridgid Titanium series appears to be made by Freud and is good value.

Blade selection (http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/12395) is very much proprietary to your saw and what you cut. I think the first decision should be whether to choose separate task specific blades that will perform very well in a narrow operating range, or to go with more of a “do-all” general purpose blade that will give “good” results in most applications but excel at none. Both philosophies have merit depending on the situation, your preference, budget, and cutting objectives. A decent purebred 60-80 tooth crosscut blade will certainly make “cleaner” crosscuts than a 30, 40 or 50 tooth general purpose blade of comparable quality. Inversely, a 24 tooth bulk ripper will certainly be more efficient at ripping thick material than the general purpose (GP) style blade. The key to “better” depends on how you define that term. Better performance in one aspect of cutting doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better choice overall. Consider both sides of the equation before making a decision.

Taking the approach of using task specific blades requires owning at least two blades that each excel in a limited operating region, and are typically unacceptable for tasks outside of their intended scope. They also require blade changes for each different task for optimum results. Two task-specific blades (typically a 24T ripper and a 60T or 80T crosscutter) will generally stay sharp longer than a single general purpose blade because they share the work load, but will cost more upfront and will also cost more to re-sharpen when the time comes. A general purpose blade will neither rip as efficiently as a true rip blade nor crosscut as cleanly as a dedicated crosscut blade, but you may find that it’s more than acceptable at doing both tasks for most situations. A valid argument in favor of using one high quality general purpose blade is that the GP blade leaves a cleaner edge than the rip blade, crosscuts faster than a crosscut blade, and does so with the convenience and cost of using one blade. Most higher quality general purpose blades will leave a glue ready edge, which is often as good as it needs to be. If you happen to do a lot of specialty cutting of fine veneered plywoods, veneers, melamine, MDF, plastics, etc., a blade made specifically for these materials is definitely recommended. If you tend to rip very thick dense materials regularly, then a dedicated ripping blade is a wise choice for you right from the start. Sooner a later a decent general purpose blade will be useful, so it’s always a reasonable starting point IMO, even if you pursue separates later.

[Bob Haskett]

The stock Ridgid blade sucks. The Ridgid Titanium series appears to be made by Freud and is good value.

Blade selection (http://lumberjocks.com/knotscott/blog/12395) is very much proprietary to your saw and what you cut. I think the first decision should be whether to choose separate task specific blades that will perform very well in a narrow operating range, or to go with more of a “do-all” general purpose blade that will give “good” results in most applications but excel at none. Both philosophies have merit depending on the situation, your preference, budget, and cutting objectives. A decent purebred 60-80 tooth crosscut blade will certainly make “cleaner” crosscuts than a 30, 40 or 50 tooth general purpose blade of comparable quality. Inversely, a 24 tooth bulk ripper will certainly be more efficient at ripping thick material than the general purpose (GP) style blade. The key to “better” depends on how you define that term. Better performance in one aspect of cutting doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better choice overall. Consider both sides of the equation before making a decision.

Taking the approach of using task specific blades requires owning at least two blades that each excel in a limited operating region, and are typically unacceptable for tasks outside of their intended scope. They also require blade changes for each different task for optimum results. Two task-specific blades (typically a 24T ripper and a 60T or 80T crosscutter) will generally stay sharp longer than a single general purpose blade because they share the work load, but will cost more upfront and will also cost more to re-sharpen when the time comes. A general purpose blade will neither rip as efficiently as a true rip blade nor crosscut as cleanly as a dedicated crosscut blade, but you may find that it’s more than acceptable at doing both tasks for most situations. A valid argument in favor of using one high quality general purpose blade is that the GP blade leaves a cleaner edge than the rip blade, crosscuts faster than a crosscut blade, and does so with the convenience and cost of using one blade. Most higher quality general purpose blades will leave a glue ready edge, which is often as good as it needs to be. If you happen to do a lot of specialty cutting of fine veneered plywoods, veneers, melamine, MDF, plastics, etc., a blade made specifically for these materials is definitely recommended. If you tend to rip very thick dense materials regularly, then a dedicated ripping blade is a wise choice for you right from the start. Sooner a later a decent general purpose blade will be useful, so it’s always a reasonable starting point IMO, even if you pursue separates later.

All I can say is WOW. Your knowledge on the subject at hand is second to none. I thank you (well everyone really) for taking the time to help a noob like me out. You have helped me choose a tablesaw that I hope will be with me for some time. I can't imagine outgrowing it.

Much appreciated.

[Stephen Edwards]

Got all the parts home and got started. When I went back in to get the last few nuts (the ones that were left out the second time) I mentioned a discount per Scott's advice. I got another 10% off. So 499 saw at 20% off works for me!

Everything is done up to the point of lifting the cabinet onto the leg stand. My wife and I cannot do this, and my neighbor is not home, so as soon as I get that piece done the rest of the assembly should be done in no time. I cant wait to try it out! My wife already caught me shopping for jointers and planers...LOL...she quickly closed the lid on my laptop and reminded me of my promise that her new comforter and sheets were next...

Well done, Bob! Scott's suggestion turned out to be a winner for you. Ain't SMC great?!

You might consider telling your wife that your having saved so much money on the saw should "comfort 'er" and be sure to thank her for suggesting to you that you get some sheets to cover your new saw when not in use.

[Bob Haskett]

You might consider telling your wife that your having saved so much money on the saw should "comfort 'er" and be sure to thank her for suggesting to you that you get some sheets to cover your new saw when not in use.

Classic!

My neighbor is out of town until sunday, so I took the top off and did it myself. I am at the point where I need to put on the wings and rails now, will do that piece tomorrow.

[Greg Peterson]

Congrats on the saw. I too recently bought an R4511.

You will want to read up on aligning the table top. There is a great thread over at Ridgid on this process. A dial indicator (Harbor Freight Tools) and a little patience will reward you. Getting the blade parallel is pretty straight forward. Getting it parallel at 45 degrees requires some work.

I had a Delta T2 fence on an old craftsman contractor saw that required little effort to retro fit onto the Ridgid.

[Christopher Morgan]

I had a Delta T2 fence on an old craftsman contractor saw that required little effort to retro fit onto the Ridgid.

Care to tell us what a bit more about the little effort involved, Greg? Was it simply a matter of drilling new holes in the brackets that support the rail? Or was there more to it than that?

I am thinking through upgrading the stock fence, and the options I am considering range from just replacing the front rail up to installing an Incra system. The T2 falls right in the middle of that range. I think I remember reading about someone having to shim the rail to make it align correctly on the R4511, and that put me off a bit, but if the installation isn't too bad, it is certainly a contender.

[Van Huskey]

Blade selection was mentioned and handled quite well but I will toss my two cents in.

First, I am somewhat of a blade "prostitute" I just slipped out to the shop and I have over 40 blades, each different and just about a complete coverage of the Freud Industrial line and the Forrest line. These are the only two I use and although there are other fine blades out there I have never had a dud from either. I have always been a horses for courses kind of guy and used to use a different blade for just about every cut and material until recently, the Forrest WWII (wood worker 2) and Frued P410 (my fav) have changed my mind, I use these for 90% of my cuts rip/cross/ply because the ATB grind is just so good it works well for all of them. Only when I have a lot of heavy ripping or I am breaking down a lot of ply do I bother with another blade (excepting the odd solid surface or metal cut). Both of these blades will set you back about $100 but are worth it and can be sharpened several times, in a hobby shop a pair (one to use while one is sharpened) could last you many years.

The only thing I think Scott missed was the kerf width, given the 4511 isn't a 3+ HP cabinet monster a thin kerf blade would be your friend. This knocks out the Frued P410 (std kerf only) but Forrest has a thin kerf WWII. If you prefer not to spend $100 for a blade then my next fav combo blade is the Frued LU88, it is a TK (thin kerf) crosscut blade but it does remarkably well at ripping most stock. It has a list about $75 but Amazon has it for $55 free shipping (was $40 earlier yesterday for about an hour). My advice is grab this blade use it and pick up a dedicated rip blade if/when you feel the need for one. Keep the Ridgid blade for construction lumber et al.

Remember the best table saw in the world will do a poor job with a poor blade.

Congrats on the purchase, the 4511 is what I consider a best buy in its price range and your price was excellent. Don't forget to register it for the lifetime service agreement (warranty) just makes a great deal even sweeter.

Also spend some time and tune the saw, there are some great videos floating around on youtube and elsewhere about this. Many will show you ways to tune without any test equipment and in the end even when I tune a saw within an inch of its life with plates, dial indicators, jigs and etc dynamic testing is still the proof of the pudding. If you have trouble finding a good video PM me as I am not completely sure of the direct link rules here.


Finally, as to the SAF (spousal acceptance factor) build your wife a piece of "wife-centric" furniture, you will soon have a backlog of "orders" from your wife for all manner of furniture and from experience each will require a new machine or tool, you will have a planer/jointer/router table/band saw and dust collector sooner than you ever imagined and your wife will be your greatest muse/patron, plus you will have a house full of your custom stuff that costs a lot less than Rooms to Go et al. I used this method to literally quintuple my new table saw budget at HER insistence (yes you read that right) and I was told in no uncertain terms SHE wanted (demanded) a full Incra setup (fence, router wing and positioner) for HER birthday to go on the saw so I can build some intricate exposed joinery pieces she has dreamed up. My one error in this regard is showing her a Maloof rocker never expecting her to "need" one since it is not her style, that one is gonna cost me a lot of time and effort in a direction I had never planned to go, but it may take me years to find just the right wood... thats my story and I am sticking to it.

Now quite reading my drivel and go make some sawdust!

[Chris Harry]

Classic!

My neighbor is out of town until sunday, so I took the top off and did it myself. I am at the point where I need to put on the wings and rails now, will do that piece tomorrow.

Taking the top off was a good idea anyway....in the mass of 4511 threads on Ridgid forum, someone explained in perfect detail how to make sure the top is "perfectly perpendicular" to the blade at a 45 degree bevel. It involves at least loosening the screws for the top and shimming so that the front of the blade and the back of the blade are on the same exact plane when the blade is tilted, otherwise you get bad 45 degree cuts.

Thats what the silver shims under each corner of the top were for. Hopefully you kept them in the same spots. If not, no biggie, you'll just have to shuffle them around if you follow the alignment instructions

[Cliff Holmes]

I have over 40 blades

:eek:

You, my friend, need help :D

[Van Huskey]

:eek:

You, my friend, need help :D

It is actually worse, I gave up counting and didn't even look at the dedicated SCMS blades, dado, box joint and any of the junk I use for green and construction type lumber. The real number is probably over 60. It just hit me that I have more money in blades than the PM2000 I am waiting to be delivered... I see now, I indeed do need help!

[scott spencer]

...I have over 40 blades...

:eek:

You, my friend, need help :D

I think Van deserves a medal!

"Sharpest Blade in the Drawer" award! :D

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y203/hewood/sawparts/Saw%20Blades/0sharpestbladeaward.jpg

[Bob Haskett]

Thats what the silver shims under each corner of the top were for. Hopefully you kept them in the same spots. If not, no biggie, you'll just have to shuffle them around if you follow the alignment instructions

Well, I actually didnt know they were there, when I pulled the top off they were all stuck to the granite and fell off and rolled around and got mixed up on my garage floor. I have no idea what went where. When I put the top back on, I did move them around to keep the top from rocking, not sure if that is correct or not. I guess I should have read further for alignment instructions.... DOH!

Do you happen to know where that post is?

[Chris Harry]

Well, I actually didnt know they were there, when I pulled the top off they were all stuck to the granite and fell off and rolled around and got mixed up on my garage floor. I have no idea what went where. When I put the top back on, I did move them around to keep the top from rocking, not sure if that is correct or not. I guess I should have read further for alignment instructions.... DOH!

Do you happen to know where that post is?

This will help: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

Not sure if you need to be registered to get the PDF, but thats what you'll need. And, mine was slightly off from the factory anyway, so its probably best to do it regardless of where the shims ended up :)

[Bob Haskett]

This will help: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

Not sure if you need to be registered to get the PDF, but thats what you'll need. And, mine was slightly off from the factory anyway, so its probably best to do it regardless of where the shims ended up :)

Great thanks! I actually registered yesterday when I had my missing pieces debacle.

[Bob Haskett]

This will help: http://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=25836

Not sure if you need to be registered to get the PDF, but thats what you'll need. And, mine was slightly off from the factory anyway, so its probably best to do it regardless of where the shims ended up :)

So after putting it all together, aligning the top, aligning the fence, and checking the blade so that is perfectly perpendicular, is there anything else I need to do before I slice and dice? I have found some info on these things over at the R4511 forum so I should be good to go if that is all I need to do, only thing that stinks is the tools I need to do it are going to be about $150. Is there a cheaper way?

[scott spencer]

So after putting it all together, aligning the top, aligning the fence, and checking the blade so that is perfectly perpendicular, is there anything else I need to do before I slice and dice? I have found some info on these things over at the R4511 forum so I should be good to go if that is all I need to do, only thing that stinks is the tools I need to do it are going to be about $150. Is there a cheaper way?

5¢ Table Saw Alignment (http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/09/06/table-saw-alignment-for-005/) An inexpensive Harbor Freight dial indicator can be helpful, but isn't really necessary.

[Paul Johnstone]

Only thing bad there is I do not have 220v available.

If you have an open slot on your breaker box, it's relatively easy, inexpensive and safe to DIY another 220v outlet.

[Paul Johnstone]

What are the advantages of the different steel/granite wings? Why is CI so much better than steel wings?

I have a contractor's saw. It came with stamped steel wings.
It's really no big deal. I just don't use them.
I had to build my own table on the right side anyhow to support the 52" fence. On the left side of the saw, there's a very ugly cabinet with drawers that is the same height as the saw (first thing I ever built).

The wings/side tables don't have to be within .000001" of being level.
So, IMO, if you are on a tight budget, sacrifice the cast iron wings.

EDIT: I guess you already bought the saw.. I'm behind. :lol: Enjoy.

[Chris Harry]

So after putting it all together, aligning the top, aligning the fence, and checking the blade so that is perfectly perpendicular, is there anything else I need to do before I slice and dice? I have found some info on these things over at the R4511 forum so I should be good to go if that is all I need to do, only thing that stinks is the tools I need to do it are going to be about $150. Is there a cheaper way?

Another option is a large drafting triangle/square from Staples, Office Depot, etc. Pretty cheap (6 bux or so?) and dead on for 90 and 45 degree. I aligned my 4511 using various methods, and the drafting square was pretty darn accurate for the price.

A cheap dial indicator can help too, but the square helped me a lot (its easier than a combo square because Ive never liked how the combo square fits into a miter slot while you are trying to make it parallel with the blade)

[Stephen Edwards]

5¢ Table Saw Alignment (http://www.toolcrib.com/blog/2007/09/06/table-saw-alignment-for-005/) An inexpensive Harbor Freight dial indicator can be helpful, but isn't really necessary.

Scott is giving you some really good advice here. This is exactly how I did it before buying a dial indicator. Here's the original post here at SMC.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=352716&postcount=10

You absolutely do not need to spend $150 bucks to tune your new saw. As Scott said, a dial indicator is nice to have, but not necessary. If you do get a dial indicator, the cheap one from HF is plenty good enough for this purpose. The only other thing you'd need is a stick to which you'd attach the DI.

Even if you go with the stick and the 5 cent screw, you can align your blade and your fence to the miter slot so that it will be well within the acceptable range.

In fact, I did just that and then checked it with the DI. I was within .002 of my target using the stick and screw, confirmed by the DI method immediately afterward. If I can do it, anyone can!

[Bob Haskett]

Scott is giving you some really good advice here. This is exactly how I did it before buying a dial indicator. Here's the original post here at SMC.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showpost.php?p=352716&postcount=10

You absolutely do not need to spend $150 bucks to tune your new saw. As Scott said, a dial indicator is nice to have, but not necessary. If you do get a dial indicator, the cheap one from HF is plenty good enough for this purpose. The only other thing you'd need is a stick to which you'd attach the DI.

Even if you go with the stick and the 5 cent screw, you can align your blade and your fence to the miter slot so that it will be well within the acceptable range.

In fact, I did just that and then checked it with the DI. I was within .002 of my target using the stick and screw, confirmed by the DI method immediately afterward. If I can do it, anyone can!

Thanks for the advice guys, good to hear, as I just went to Woodcraft and saw the prices of all the blades :eek:. I can already tell this hobby can get expensive.

[Bob Haskett]

Am I missing something though? You would need about a 6 inch screw to do this not 1 inch?

EDIT: Nevermind, had a senior moment. Was thinking he was saying to insert it in the slot as you would the bar on the miter gauge.

GOT IT NOW SORRY!

[Bob Haskett]

I found this pdf, while looking around at the methods some of you have suggested. I think I am just going to run down this list of checks and get to hackin!

Sorry to everyone that I have probably made this way harder than it is...

Here is the pdf
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf

[tim young]

Hi Bob, I would be patient and wait for a nice used Powermatic model 66 on Craig's list. For a 2 year period of time I was rebuilding PM saws. I was able to find a nice used model 66 saw w/ a 5hp, 3 phase motor for approx. $200-500. You can usually sell the 5hp, 3 phase motors for $25-100, pending condition. Put a new 3hp, single phase Baldor motor on it for about $400 (leeson motor on eBay is about $75 less), new bearing $40, paint $25 and a lot of elbow grease. Total investment was usually about $700. For $700, you might be able to find one of the nice green PM w/ a 2hp, single phase motor. Very nice saw IMO. Tim

[Greg Peterson]

I think I remember reading about someone having to shim the rail to make it align correctly on the R4511, and that put me off a bit, but if the installation isn't too bad, it is certainly a contender.

If you rad about the shimming on the Ridgid forum that was my thread.

It's a simple process. You have to use the Ridgid angle iron bracket. The shims consist of three 1 1/2" x 3' x 1/8" aluminum stock easily purchased at the borg.

You will have to drill and tap new mounting holes in the rail, but it's pretty simple. I'm going to finish up that thread pretty soon. There's a comedy of errors and what not that are beyond the scope of this thread.

[scott spencer]

If you rad about the shimming on the Ridgid forum that was my thread.

It's a simple process. You have to use the Ridgid angle iron bracket. The shims consist of three 1 1/2" x 3' x 1/8" aluminum stock easily purchased at the borg.

You will have to drill and tap new mounting holes in the rail, but it's pretty simple. I'm going to finish up that thread pretty soon. There's a comedy of errors and what not that are beyond the scope of this thread.

It's worth noting that shimming a new tools is fairly common, and one that needs shimming isn't necessarily an induction that others will too...it's usually pretty random.

[Chris Harry]

It's worth noting that shimming a new tools is fairly common, and one that needs shimming isn't necessarily an induction that others will too...it's usually pretty random.

yeah. Id be more worried if the tool was so far out that shimming wouldnt fix it.

[Terry Welty]

call Ridgid... they replaced some missing washers on my Ridgid Oscillating sander without problems... Check out the Ridgid Forum. Great site with a ton of information... The person that wrote the assembly instructions for the saw wah high on crack... there are much better instructions available via the forum. Especially on putting together the hercu-lift and the dust collection bin... It's a great saw for the money... I don't have much problems with the fence and rails as some do... I've worked with a heck of a lot worse... Good luck with your new toy!!

[Bob Haskett]

Done with assembly! Nothing to it right?? ;)

I put on this blade: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2020099/29292/Freud-Fusion-10-x-40T-x-58-Thin-Kerf-Saw-Blade.aspx

Anyways I tuned it as well. I followed some tips from this forum as well as from the PDF doc I linked above. It may not be accurate to .001 but it should be OK for now.

I really appreciate all the tips, tricks, encouragement, advice, etc.

One other question I had is....

How do I make this fence slide more smoothly? I got it dead accurate, it just does not slide very smoothly.

Also, how big of a chip in the granite should it be before it needs to be replaced? The left wing came with 3 small chips right where it butts up to the main table.

[Greg Peterson]

Bob - you may be able to repair those chips. However I would contact Ridgid first.

This is a really nice saw. It's a shame they discontinued it. But it seems there were too many QC problems. My first saw was severely damaged and had to be exchanged. On the replacement saw the front angle iron bracket that supports the fence rail was distorted so that it resembled a lasagna noodle. Granted it was slight, but when the fence rises up 1/8" from the blade to the edge of the right wing, something is amiss. For $500 I am not expecting perfection, but this was not a deficiency I was willing to live with. Ridgid replaced it no questions asked.

[Bob Haskett]

Does your fence slide smoothly? If so, did you do anything to it?

[scott spencer]

Does your fence slide smoothly? If so, did you do anything to it?

Once you get it adjusted, wax the top and the inside of the rail, but not the frontside where the clamp tightens.

[Jason White]

Ditto what Paul said.

Jason



If you have an open slot on your breaker box, it's relatively easy, inexpensive and safe to DIY another 220v outlet.

[Hugh Jardon]

Changing the rail seems to be the way forward to get it to slide smoothly. That also addresses two other issues, namely the ridiculous 2-piece construction with the join under the most used area, and the overall shortness of it.

I haven't taken the plunge yet, but others have. I'll be looking for the smoothest surface I can get, I may even spring to have it chromed. I only want to do this once.

[Terry Welty]

Man, sucks to be you, Huh? :) Just kidding... I've read posts that Ridgid is great on replacing damaged tops... I'd definately do that, as you'll be looking at those chips for many years... would take the enthusiasm out of me... If they send you replacements, I'd keep the old ones as back ups.

Where did you find your missing screws and stuff??

In regards to your fence- Can you see where it is hanging up? Front? Back? Middle? Mine is as smooth as butter. I did give the saw a couple of coats of Johnson Paste Wax... but I didn't need it, but make everything super slick. Perhaps your adjusting lever is too tight on the fence. Does it fully release when in the down position... you may have to adjust it??????

[Bob Haskett]

Ditto what Paul said.

Jason

I do have an open slot. Do you mind explaining how to do this, or point me to a resource?

[Bob Haskett]

Changing the rail seems to be the way forward to get it to slide smoothly. That also addresses two other issues, namely the ridiculous 2-piece construction with the join under the most used area, and the overall shortness of it.

I haven't taken the plunge yet, but others have. I'll be looking for the smoothest surface I can get, I may even spring to have it chromed. I only want to do this once.

I saw that someone changed to a Shop Fox Classic fence system. I may go that route in the future.

[Bob Haskett]

Where did you find your missing screws and stuff???

Got the missing screws out of another damaged R4511 at HD. They took the screws and stuff out of the damaged box.



In regards to your fence- Can you see where it is hanging up? Front? Back? Middle? Mine is as smooth as butter. I did give the saw a couple of coats of Johnson Paste Wax... but I didn't need it, but make everything super slick. Perhaps your adjusting lever is too tight on the fence. Does it fully release when in the down position... you may have to adjust it??????

It is not hanging up perse. Its more an audible feedback and feeling in my hand I am getting while sliding it. Sounds like I am grinding metal on metal instead of feeling like I am sliding felt on granite. I will have to look back through the manual. the only thing I saw that you could adjust was the line that indicated what measurement you were on.