Removing a Recessed Dovetail ???

[Dave Ogren]

I did not want to hi-jack Baxter's thread about the recess.
But I noticed that Reed says he uses them on all bowls as do I.
Leo's comments show a bowl that is complete except for the recess removal.
What do you all do ?? Does removing the recess make it more appealing or what would be the reason to remove it ??
Thanks, all help is greatly appreciated.

Dave

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Dave I have at least a couple of reasons to remove the raw tenon, or recess.

I don't like the unfinished look of a tenon or recess, so that's one very good reason ;-)).

Next, did you ever observe what about the first thing is that people do when they pickup a bowl, even if there is a price card next to the bowl ????, yes they turn it over and look at the bottom, so a finished bottom is more appealing I think.

I also sign, number and put the wood-type on the bottom, looks better on a nicely finished bowl bottom IMO

Here's a rare tenon from me, it has to be returned also ;)
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Here is that maple bowl, with a before and after recess removed.
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Here's a 12" long, 3 bowl piece, it still has 3 recesses in the bottom here and the next shows the recesses removed with a ridge at both ends so it sits stable.
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[Baxter Smith]

Very pretty bottoms Leo! That 3 bowl piece is the first I have seen like that. (Not that I've seen much:).

Makes me think about those limbs I have sitting on the garage floor with no definitive plans. Up till now!;)

Thanks for the pics/great ideas!

[Bill Bolen]

Ahhh Leo! Your post's/photo's are always so helpful. I'm serious in saying your attitude and advice are what all we turners hope that we are like,,,Bill..

[Dave Ogren]

Leo,
Thank you once again for the advice. I have been sanding, signing, numbering, and wood type, then finishing the bottome. I will try removing the dovetail part, I think you have a good idea, I didn't know about the customers reaction to that part, no- one ever said anything about it.

Now, I have been finish turning when the bowls are green to about 3% wall thickness of the bowl dia. and getting a good amount of warp. Example a 10" bowl will vary dia. by 1/2" to 5/8" or more. Will the cole jaws still hold that centered enough to do more work on the bottom ??
I have 2 sets of them but never used them, and don't have a vacuum system yet. Or did I miss something??

Thanks in advance for all of your help, I really appreciate it.
Dave

[Reed Gray]

A vacuum chuck is probably the best way to do it, especially for warped bowls. Another toy to buy for the shop. I never bother to remove the recess. I do sand it, and write in wood type, date, and autograph it. None of my bowls sit flat because of warpage. Some warp so bad that I couldn't turn the bottom flat if I wanted (pacific madrone bowl finished moving at 9 inch wide by 13 long, with height varying about 2 inches). It kind of fits. I seldom notice anyone paying any attention to the bottom of the bowl, other than a brief look. Mostly they will fondle it. The feel of the curves and the wood seem to be a selling point as much as color. If I did turn off the recess, I wouldn't be able to get any more money for them, and it is an extra step, so, I don't bother. They can be left looking neat and clean.

robo hippy

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Dave I use whatever I think will work, If you look at the pictures you could see that there is at least one bowl in the previous pictures that has wedges under the bowl, I use them to center recess/tenon of the bowl.
Sometimes I will double up the bumpers, to get a secure hold.
A donut chuck is also a good holding device to return the recess or finish the bottom.
I know you don't have one now, but a vacuum chuck can be handy sometimes also.
Just don't get caught for one hole, just use your imagination.
It is just for that reason that I try to help out, when I started turning, there was no-one to help, never seen a turner or the tools they used, bowl gouges still had to be invented, and so by being a Dutchman ;-)) (stubborn ;-) I just kept at it, found a lot of ways to do things and not always the best, but if it worked I'd use it.
See I'm no production turner, so if it takes extra time that's just fine with me.
I do remember chatting with Robo Hippy back when he just started to turn, it was on the old Rec. wood turning site, and he thought that I should use a scraper to turn bowls, and I told him I had been turning too darn long with scrapers already and was glad I now had the bowl gouges that cut wood, rather than scrape it, of course you can sand it to finish, I rather take my time and cut it and then sand, works better for me and I like the outcome better than with the scrapers.
Now I do have a bunch of pictures that show some of my ways of holding the pieces, too many to all put in this post, and it is getting late, after just driving 400 miles to get home today, so I'll just a few now I could put some more up tomorrow, maybe :)

Here's Cherry crotch that warped pretty good, had to use a staple to keep the bark inclusion from opening up, it works :)
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This Elm was pretty shifted and oval as well, so with wedges and a couple of high placed bumpers plus the bungie cord, it did hold it in place, the string was to prevent the bungie cord from sliding off to the side while spinning
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Here's an Applewood piece that did warp and get nicely oval , again the raised bumpers and some placed in the slots to center the piece, time consuming, but it is fun :D
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[Baxter Smith]

Thanks for calling attention to the picture of the shims. Can't remember if I noticed it before or not. I was wondering today how I might use the Cole jaws I have to remount a piece that was warped. I only wanted to touch up the outside of a recessed foot. Thanks for the other pics as well. Your imagination is helping me expand mine.:)