Push stick, "shoe", for TS

[Phil Phelps]

Since I have this over arm DC, (I hesitate to call it a guard), it makes it difficult to rip small stuff. I made this shoe that runs along the slot in my fence. Sure makes it simple and it stays put. Anyone with a better recipe, I'm always looking. If this is something you can use, give it a try. ;)

[Dick Parr]

Very Nice Phil,

It reminds me of the push stick/shoe that I bought for my Vega fence when I upgrade my old craftsman. Sure do miss it and the safety I felt with it.

[Steve Clardy]

:D :D

[Charles McKinley]

I'll be making one of those as soon as my saw gets hear. Wasted today waiting for the truck.

ATTN GLOAT POLICE: It's not a glaot until it it in the shop and running. Gloats to be posted soo I hope.:(

[Dave Arbuckle]

Mine is for circumstances where you have a wider rip, and want a LOT of board control:

http://users2.ev1.net/~arbuckle/ripping/3090001.jpg

Dave

[Bruce Page]

Here is mine. Of course, I have to remove the Board Buddy mounts to use it.:mad:

[Stan Smith]

Here's my low tech version. I just made a thinner one today because I had to rip some half in. x half in. spindles for the ends of a soft table I'm building. The hardboard one is 1/4" think. Works great but I too miss the slider that I had on my vega fence on my old ts. I'm going to make one that slides on the fence, too. Thanks for sharing

[Ted Shrader]

Originally posted by Stan Smith
Here's my low tech version. I just made a thinner one today because I had to rip some half in. x half in. spindles for the ends of a soft table I'm building. The hardboard one is 1/4" think. Works great but I too miss the slider that I had on my vega fence on my old ts. I'm going to make one that slides on the fence, too. Thanks for sharing

Stan -

Your push sticks look a lot lik mine. Both came from the same "Lo-Tech" factory right here in the good old U.S. of A. I need them thin to sneak between the Brett Guard and the fence.

Ted

[John Miliunas]

Phil, nice idea on the shoe. One thing I might do is to move the heel (notch) further back towards the handle. That way, you still have the same functionality, plus the added leverage up front would help hold the material down over the blade. :cool:

[Bill Esposito]

Your's are fancier than mine but it looks like we all have the same idea.
http://www.mv.com/users/besposito/woodworking/fingersaver.jpg

[Stan Smith]

Hey, Phil. I'm going to make one like yours. Beats cutting out a new shaped one each time I manage to screw it up. With yours you can just replace the damaged piece of hardboard.

[Paul Geer]

And here's another low tech version...

[PeterTorresani]

Phil: You have a notch that the work piece fits under. What do you do if you have thicker stock?

Bruce: It looks like yours is adjustable. Do you loosen the three screws to change the height, or is there an easier way to do this?

All in all This is a great thread. Lots of good ideas from simple to fairly elaborate

[Bruce Page]

Originally posted by PeterTorresani
Phil: You have a notch that the work piece fits under. What do you do if you have thicker stock?

Bruce: It looks like yours is adjustable. Do you loosen the three screws to change the height, or is there an easier way to do this?

All in all This is a great thread. Lots of good ideas from simple to fairly elaborate

Pete, I'm playing catch-up on my reading tonight.
Yes, I just adjust the side plate to the material thickness. there's also a heal plate for normal push operations, but I like the push blocks that came with my joiner better for that.

[Phil Phelps]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by PeterTorresani
[B]Phil: You have a notch that the work piece fits under. What do you do if you have thicker stock?
Sorry for the delay. I had no idea the circular saw jig was such a mess, I forgot to answer you. There was never a notch. I ran some 3/16" stuff once and it cut into the plate. When the plate becomes worn, I unscrew it and replace it. I only use it for under two inches.Thanks for askin'.