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View Full Version : Sorry guys one last time small budget router table for Bosch router



Gato Markham2
01-03-2010, 1:31 AM
I have a small budget with my 2 hp Bosch router. borg Bosh table top router interesting with my gift cards but cast iron add on to my Ridgid saw seems best. I do not want to get into high dollar lifts and inserts but do not want sag or leveling problems. what does the garage ww get the most bang for his buck kreg? (do love cast iron ) but loml will not like large purchase.can you get a good budget buy? A pin in insert seems a must! The Bosch track for feather board seems cheap! I hate my old craftsmen metal table Thanks for any help>

Phillip Bogle
01-03-2010, 1:47 AM
Not sure what your budget is. I have an RT1000XL made in Canada and it is nice. Though I am looking into an Incra LS so have to get a new top. Will keep the base cabinet.

You can build one. Mine is MDF 1.5" thick and works great. Laminate on the top. You will get flex more from the plate, than the top alone. The spot that holds the router is always a challenge.

Otherwise look at the Kreg router table. Lot of features, good company.

Just my opinion.
Phil B.

Gato Markham2
01-03-2010, 2:04 AM
That is nice! also with metal insert. shipping $75 Thanks for quick reply

Glen Butler
01-03-2010, 2:48 AM
The best small budget router table is one that you make yourself. Mine is two pieces of 3/4 MDF stacked. There is a kreg miter/t track just in front of the lift. You can just use a phenolic plate instead of a lift and use the kreg insert plate levelers or make your own.

Chuck Isaacson
01-03-2010, 1:03 PM
I'm with Glen on this one. Mine is the same as his. Two pieces of 3/4" MDF laminated together with some trim pieces added on then I laminated the whole thing with a piece of Formica laminate from the BORG. I have a MLCS aluminum router plate that I got for $66. I would recommend getting the template for it as well to cut the hole in your top. It is another $20. If you are looking for a plans for the hole thing you can get them here (http://www.woodstore.net/rotaandor.html). I used this plan to build mine. I changed it just a little bit to suit me. Good plan though. Good luck.

Frank Drew
01-03-2010, 1:24 PM
I found a small (maybe 24"x30"), old formica'ed kitchen table somewhere , the kind that you saw all the time in the Fifties and Sixties.

I got a spare base for my Bosch and mounted it permanently underneath the top (I never used the legs), and clamped the top in a Workmate 300 when I wanted to use it; the rest of the time I could stick it in the corner somewhere.

Free, except for a bit of labor cutting the hole for the bits and a recess underneath for mounting the base, and making a fence, and it worked fine for years and years.

Glen Butler
01-03-2010, 2:47 PM
I'm with Glen on this one. Mine is the same as his. Two pieces of 3/4" MDF laminated together with some trim pieces added on then I laminated the whole thing with a piece of Formica laminate from the BORG. I have a MLCS aluminum router plate that I got for $66. I would recommend getting the template for it as well to cut the hole in your top. It is another $20. If you are looking for a plans for the hole thing you can get them here (http://www.woodstore.net/rotaandor.html). I used this plan to build mine. I changed it just a little bit to suit me. Good plan though. Good luck.

You don't even need to buy the template. Use plate as the template. Put the router plate where you want it to be. Frame around it with some 1/2 x 3'' material. Remove plate and route using a top bearing bit around the frame.

Curt Harms
01-04-2010, 3:52 PM
You don't even need to buy the template. Use plate as the template. Put the router plate where you want it to be. Frame around it with some 1/2 x 3'' material. Remove plate and route using a top bearing bit around the frame.

That is how I did one for a buddy. I have a 5/8" diameter top bearing pattern cutting bit. The router place's radii matched a half inch bit very closely. The cutting height was 1/2" so i didn't need a tall 'form' to contact the top bearing. I cut the perimeter with the pattern cutting bitWorked well. If I'd wanted more of a lip for the plate to sit on you could add to the form or simply freehand it. I cut the center out with a jig saw. It works well and the price was right.