Been tinkering again-vise build

[Matt Evans]

I decided that I would like to add a little more functionality to my little prototype bench, so I wanted to add a good vise. The easiest vise would be a bolt on that I would have to buy, but I wanted to try something different.

So, I decided to make a screw and nut, fit them out in a leg vise configuration and bolt them on.

I still need to make a handle and finish the face of the vise, but progress has been made!

I would consider this a prototype, as I was working feverishly at odd hours with limited stock, and had to make due with reclaimed scraps I had laying about, but the next one should be really nice with some of the kinks worked out.

The face I plan on doing as a box without a top or bottom, turning the leg part of the vise into a sort of tenon, with the box opening being the mortice. It would be attached at the sides with dowels, allowing it to pivot. I don't quite have it worked out yet, but I know I want to be able to change the head of the vise out for different applications, and that seemed like a decent solution. I am open to suggestions though.

[David Gendron]

Look like you are on a mission to for the "perfect" vise. keep us posted on the development of your vise construction!

[Jeff Wittrock]

Matt,

I think your "proto" leg vice looks quite a bit better than the one I have in use :(. Can't wait to see the final one.

I think I can visualize what you are describing for the vice face. That sounds like it would let you work the top screw over a wider range without having to adjust the lower screw since the face can pivot? Is that right? Sounds like a cool idea.

I guess the one disadvantage I can think of is that whatever you clamp has to be wide enough to go down below the pivot to keep it from flopping over to one side, but maybe I am misunderstanding you description.

-Jeff

[Matt Evans]

Jeff,

You are correct. I plan on building three "heads" for the leg vise. One will pivot loosely, for wider boards. One will pivot loosely and have a sharply angled face with "v" grooves running vertically and horizontally for round or odd shaped work. And the other head will have a slight angle, fit tightly and have a pin to hold it in place. This will make it almost like a regular leg vise. I also plan on putting a dog hole in the top of this one.

[Bob Haverstock]

Matt,

What is the diameter of the wooden vise screw? What wood is recommended for the wodden screw and the mating threaded member?

I'm following the thread with grear interest. I need to build a wood working bench?

Thanks,
Bob Haverstock

[Matt Evans]

Bob,

This screw is Hard Maple, 2 3/16" diameter. Other woods that work well are hickory, ash, apple, Beech. . .Any straight grained, well seasoned wood that doesn't splinter easily. The other consideration is compression, so it has to be a pretty hard, dense wood. Tropical woods would work well, with a few exceptions. I don't have much luck with oak. It is strong, but chips and splinters easily.

I was trying something new with this screw, so there is a bunch of stuff different than I would normally do. For one, I cut almost an ACME style thread, but with a round bottom. I also thought I would make it a left hand thread, which I am not sure I like yet. I am semi-ambidextrous, but the position of the vise means I will be using it with my left hand 95% of the time. The screw is a little smaller than I wold like, and I didn't cut the threads as aggressive as I was thinking. I want a really fast acting vise, so we will have to see what I decide to do for the next few screws.

I think the next screws are going to be Maple as well, but I will have to check what stock I have.

[Josh Bowman]

How are you cutting the treads on the screw and nut?

[Pam Niedermayer]

Very cool. Can you show how left hand threads are cut vs right hand threads?

Pam

[Bruce Page]

Did you chase that thread by hand with a chisel?
I am waaaay impressed!

[Matt Evans]

I did do the screw and nut by hand. I think I will do a tutorial on how to do them and post it this evening or tomorrow, depending on how far I get. That way it is all in one place, and ya'll can get a linear progression.

I don't claim to be an expert on these, and the hand carving method is one of the slower, less perfect methods, but it is one of the best methods to use if you want a "one-off" screw, and don't want to take the time to make a special jig that you'll never use again.

[David Gendron]

Great Matt, looking forward to the tutorial!

[Josh Bowman]

I did do the screw and nut by hand. I think I will do a tutorial on how to do them and post it this evening or tomorrow, depending on how far I get. That way it is all in one place, and ya'll can get a linear progression.

I don't claim to be an expert on these, and the hand carving method is one of the slower, less perfect methods, but it is one of the best methods to use if you want a "one-off" screw, and don't want to take the time to make a special jig that you'll never use again.
Yes, I'll be watching for it too. Looks like you started another thread and didn't get any of your original questions answered. Sorry.

[Pat Zabrocki]

Looking forward to that tutorial. I can see how you would carve the screw but I'm lost on how to hand carve the nut. Awesome stuff so far!!!
Pat

[george wilson]

The correct thread form for wooden screws is a "V" thread with a 90 degree angle instead of the usual 60 degree angle found in metal threads.

This form will wear the longest,and is the least prone to chip out of any other type wood thread.

[Jim Koepke]

I was looking at the bottom screw and wondering if there is a way to rig that up with a pulley and crank to save the back.

Nice work looking forward to the tutorial.

jim

[Matt Evans]

The tutorial might take a day or two longer. Work is getting in the way of the fun stuff.

Jim,

I modified the bottom to make it easier to use. Will post a picture later on.

George,

Yup. You got it. I was trying something a little different on this screw. I actually have an idea for it later on, once I build the real leg vise. (Involves Marbles and children, so the round bottom and smoother edges were a must.)

[Brian Kincaid]

... I was working feverishly at odd hours with limited stock, and had to make due with reclaimed scraps I had laying about...

That sounds like my normal working environment. :o
-Brian

[David Gendron]

(Involves Marbles and children, so the round bottom and smoother edges were a must.)[/QUOTE]

Sound like "ballbearing" to me:cool:... I can't wait to see the result!

[Josh Bowman]

(Involves Marbles and children, so the round bottom and smoother edges were a must.)

Sound like "ballbearing" to me:cool:... I can't wait to see the result![/QUOTE]

That or something more basic....put his kids under the bench with thier toys and when he needs the bottom peg moved, have them do it.

[Matt Evans]

Ok, Work has really picked up. I have everything set and ready to go to do the walk-though, and I get slammed.

A good thing, since the dreaded tax time is upon us, and the last few months have been so slow, but. . .

So, it is on hold till I get a few hours during the day. I can start ya'll out though.

Step #1. Beg, Borrow, Buy or Turn a round blank a hair larger than you want your screw.

Step #2. Locate good straight grained stock the same thickness as your screw diameter, or thicker.

Step #3. Make sure you have two good drill bits. One needs to be the desired finish diameter of your screw. The other needs to be smaller by 1/8 -1/4 (1/16 for really small screws, 1/8 for 1 1/4" or under, and 3/16-1/4 for anything over 1 1/2")

If you get those three things done, you are 1/4 of the way there.

[Josh Bowman]

And the other 3/4 of the story is?

[Matt Evans]

Ok, Work has really picked up. I have everything set and ready to go to do the walk-though, and I get slammed.

A good thing, since the dreaded tax time is upon us, and the last few months have been so slow, but. . .

So, it is on hold till I get a few hours during the day. I can start ya'll out though.


Josh, Figured I would just let people know what to have ready for the walk through if they want to follow. I can do a write up, but I have a hard time with explaining the process without the pictures to illustrate.Kind of like marking trim pieces to cut off a door frame, rather than using a tape. It is easy to tell a cut-man over the phone to cut a piece 81 5/32", but Kind of useless to tell a guy to cut to a mark he can't see. . .

[Jim Koepke]

Step #3. Make sure you have two good drill bits. One needs to be the desired finish diameter of your screw.

So, if the screw diameter is going to be 2 inches you need a 2 inch bit?

Is this for the hole for the nut?

Can a hole saw or an expansion bit do the job?

jim

[Josh Bowman]

Josh, Figured I would just let people know what to have ready for the walk through if they want to follow. I can do a write up, but I have a hard time with explaining the process without the pictures to illustrate.Kind of like marking trim pieces to cut off a door frame, rather than using a tape. It is easy to tell a cut-man over the phone to cut a piece 81 5/32", but Kind of useless to tell a guy to cut to a mark he can't see. . .
I've got my wood and drill bits....and am ready to start.

[Matt Evans]

So, if the screw diameter is going to be 2 inches you need a 2 inch bit?

Is this for the hole for the nut?

Can a hole saw or an expansion bit do the job?

jim


I've got my wood and drill bits....and am ready to start.


Jim,

Yep, if you are doing a 2" screw, you need a 2" bit, and a 1 3/4" bit. The 2" bit is for the movable jaw, mainly, and the 1 3/4" is for the nut. Holesaw or expansion bit should work, though I have had difficulties with expansion bits that large. I think mine are threaded fine, and have been stripping out in the maple I was using.

I forgot to add the picture of the adjustment at the bottom. Here it is. I made it a lot larger so I could kick it rather than bend down. I think I will modify it further in the final vise build, octagonal or ships wheel. . .

Josh,

You and me both. And I have the camera ready to go too. But, I live in a town house, with a very thin concrete wall separating my noise from the neighbors. So, unless I get the time during the day, I get really limited in what I can do. I was lucky when I did the first one. They went on vacation, and I was able to make noise to my hearts content.

[David Gendron]

Harry Starsil Jr, have a "ship weel" type at the botom of his vise.

[Jeff Wittrock]

I forgot to add the picture of the adjustment at the bottom. Here it is. I made it a lot larger so I could kick it rather than bend down. I think I will modify it further in the final vise build, octagonal or ships wheel. . .


Hey, I like that oversized wheel!

When I made mine, I put the parallel screw to close to the floor so it really limited how big I could make the wheel. I can still turn it with my foot, but it takes a lot of stomping.

-Jeff