Table saw sled design

[Scot Roberge]

I'm about to build a sled for my new Grizzly 1023SL. Pretty much going to use the design I had on my previous saw. Right now, I'm pausing to think through two particular aspects: the overall size and whether to include T-track.

Width: My last sled's width (26") went from the left edge of the table to about 7" right of the blade. That would be 27" on the Grizzly. Anybody got opinions as to how far right of the blade the sled should extend?

Depth: Depth on my previous sled was 16" - allowing for about a 13½" maximum cutting width between the front and rear fences. Since I plan to also build a panel cutting sled for larger pieces of sheet goods, I don't think this is all that critical . . . but, I'd like to hear some opinions here as well.

T-track: I've seen several designs that incorporated T-track on the bed of the sled and/or on the inside of the front fence. Looks cool, sounds good . . . but is that a feature that any of you have actually found useful?

Thanks!

[glenn bradley]

My "regular" sized sled is about 36" wide and 24" front to back. I think it is around 13" to the right of the blade and I wish it were more BUT, I also don't want to give up room at the left of the blade so this is where I settled.

I always make my rear fences adjustable to prolong the life of the sled should anything go awry. I have t-track on my smaller sleds as I cut smaller stuff and these help keep my pinkies attached to my hands where they belong. I also have a very large sled that was built to handle some specific requirements. . . its still with me and still gets used not and again. Like routers, I don't know that I would like to go back to just one ;-)

[Karl Card]

my first sled was built recently and it is 48 inches x 24 i think. but I am on the ryobi 3100 and have 4 different positions in which to mount the sled on. Makes it nice for dado cuts, 45's etc. I used inca t track on front and back and the only thing i did that I am not real sure i like yet is that i used 2x6 on the front and back "fence" part.

[Terry Beadle]

On the sled shown in the picture, I would suggest you glue and screw a 2 ~ 3 inch deep by 3" w by 6 long piece of dunnage lumber where the blade comes through the push side. This bit of wood is well worth the added safty you get. Your shirt or worse can bump the blade cut the way you have it.

I guess I'm a worry wart but still....

[Michael Drew]

I'm about to build a sled for my new Grizzly 1023SL. Pretty much going to use the design I had on my previous saw. Right now, I'm pausing to think through two particular aspects: the overall size and whether to include T-track.

Width: My last sled's width (26") went from the left edge of the table to about 7" right of the blade. That would be 27" on the Grizzly. Anybody got opinions as to how far right of the blade the sled should extend?

Depth: Depth on my previous sled was 16" - allowing for about a 13½" maximum cutting width between the front and rear fences. Since I plan to also build a panel cutting sled for larger pieces of sheet goods, I don't think this is all that critical . . . but, I'd like to hear some opinions here as well.

T-track: I've seen several designs that incorporated T-track on the bed of the sled and/or on the inside of the front fence. Looks cool, sounds good . . . but is that a feature that any of you have actually found useful?

Thanks!


You might want to look at this one... http://www.woodsmith.com/plans/sliding-crosscut-box/

I built it several years ago and love it. I did not build the miter as I couldn't see a need for it, and haven't. I also used melamine and oak verses ply. I can slap a 24" wide half sheet of 3/4 on it and cut away. Part of the design is a table saw extention board to support it when it's pulled all the way to the front of the blade.

[Glen Blanchard]

T-track: I've seen several designs that incorporated T-track on the bed of the sled and/or on the inside of the front fence. Looks cool, sounds good . . . but is that a feature that any of you have actually found useful?

Thanks!

Here are a few photos of a sled I finished a few weeks ago. I placed a T-track on the top of the fence and use it to position my stop (in this case the new stop from Micro-Fence).

[Glen Butler]

Here are a few photos of a sled I finished a few weeks ago. I placed a T-track on the top of the fence and use it to position my stop (in this case the new stop from Micro-Fence).

I like this idea. I will need to incorporate it on the sled i just build. Did you build the mechanism that holds the micro adjust stop? I would like to use it on the right side of the blade.

[Glen Blanchard]

I like this idea. I will need to incorporate it on the sled i just build. Did you build the mechanism that holds the micro adjust stop? I would like to use it on the right side of the blade.

Glen - I already had a T-track based stop from Woodhaven that I have used in the past on miter gauges. I merely removed the "stop" itself and replaced it with a home-made platform to support the Micro-Stop.

[John Schroeder]

Hi Scott,

I just build my second sled and based it mostly on the plans available here: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/aslidingtableforyourtablesaw.aspx - I like the stop blocks and handle as they are extremely handy and add another degree of safety. I would also highly recommend the method used to square the back fence. Using geometry might seem a bit counter-intuitive, but since it is square over the entire length of the sled, the amount of error is the width of your mark. If your sled is 24" and you use a 9" machinist square, the error from continuing the line multiplies out across the entire length.

FYI I also looked hard at the sled here, but the only thing I chose to add from this design was tracks for hold downs and jigs: http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx

Rather than just cutting a groove in the bottom, I routed and installed t-track (which meant using a slightly thicker bottom for the sled). And man is it great. The hold downs make a huge difference in precision, as I never have a piece slip, and no matter how careful I was it happened on occasion holding by hand. I would highly recommend installing t-track just for the clamping.

To your second question, I overbuilt a bit and put three tracks to the right, and two to the left. Having at least two clamps on each side turned out to be quite useful though as now I can keep both sides immobilized when I'm cutting longer pieces. I find that two clamps keeps things in place, but one isn't sufficient. Cross cutting an 8' board is a breeze. I also have a track along the top right side of the fence for a stop block, which I use a lot.

My table is 25" deep by 40 inches wide, which is pretty big. I was worried it was so big I wouldn't want to use it, but I store it next to the saw and it is so handy I pretty much use it exclusively. It's heavy, but comes on and off relatively easily. At some point I might make a smaller one, but for right now I'm very happy with mine. You can have a look at it below.

Good luck with yours!

[Stephen Edwards]

This is a very nice sled built by fellow Creeker John Nixon:

http://eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx

There's a video that steps you through the building process as well as a free plan that you can download. He calls it the Super Sled, and for good reason, IMHO.

[Bob Elliott]

John,

How thick is the bottom of your sled?

Bob


Hi Scott,

I just build my second sled and based it mostly on the plans available here: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/aslidingtableforyourtablesaw.aspx - I like the stop blocks and handle as they are extremely handy and add another degree of safety. I would also highly recommend the method used to square the back fence. Using geometry might seem a bit counter-intuitive, but since it is square over the entire length of the sled, the amount of error is the width of your mark. If your sled is 24" and you use a 9" machinist square, the error from continuing the line multiplies out across the entire length.

FYI I also looked hard at the sled here, but the only thing I chose to add from this design was tracks for hold downs and jigs: http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Super-Sled-Crosscut-and-Miter-Sled.aspx

Rather than just cutting a groove in the bottom, I routed and installed t-track (which meant using a slightly thicker bottom for the sled). And man is it great. The hold downs make a huge difference in precision, as I never have a piece slip, and no matter how careful I was it happened on occasion holding by hand. I would highly recommend installing t-track just for the clamping.

To your second question, I overbuilt a bit and put three tracks to the right, and two to the left. Having at least two clamps on each side turned out to be quite useful though as now I can keep both sides immobilized when I'm cutting longer pieces. I find that two clamps keeps things in place, but one isn't sufficient. Cross cutting an 8' board is a breeze. I also have a track along the top right side of the fence for a stop block, which I use a lot.

My table is 25" deep by 40 inches wide, which is pretty big. I was worried it was so big I wouldn't want to use it, but I store it next to the saw and it is so handy I pretty much use it exclusively. It's heavy, but comes on and off relatively easily. At some point I might make a smaller one, but for right now I'm very happy with mine. You can have a look at it below.

Good luck with yours!

[Scott Wigginton]

John,

How thick is the bottom of your sled?

Bob

Can't say about his but the link to eaglewoodworking's SuperSled is 1/2" (had to watch the video to hear it, not in the first set of drawings and no sketchup on my laptop yet)

[John Schroeder]

My sled is 5/8 inch Baltic birch with 3/8" thick rockler universal t track.

[Scot Roberge]

Thank you all for your comments and suggestions. I decided on a 33" width. That'll give me 13" of support to the right side of the blade and it will allow the sled to store standing on end under the saw's fence rail. That is important because my shop is very small. For overall depth, I'm figuring 18½". That will allow sizing 16" wide stock and it will allow the center of the blade to reach the front fence without the rear of the sled protruding past the rear of the rip fence. This will keep the sled's movement within the footprint of the rest of the saw. I am still pondering the T-track options . . .
I glued up two pieces of birch for the 1½" thick front fence and sized a piece of 1" maple for the rear one tonight.