Looking for a TS blade

[Dave Gallaher]

Just finishing a rebuild on a 12 Delta table saw. I'm wondering what type of blade would be best? I'm really looking for two, ageneral purpose and some type for a good finish.

[Jim O'Dell]

Lots of good ones out there. Amazon had some good pricing on the larger Forrest blades recently, but seems like 14" and up. Might be worth a look. I'm looking at the Infinity blades for my 10 saws. I've read some good reports on them, as well as the upper line Freuds, Tenryu, and Ridge Carbide. Do a search here for saw blade comparisons. Scott (sorry Scott, last name escapes me) did a very extensive personal study on blades that has some really good information. Not sure he looked at 12", but the same model blade should cut the same as the 10". I've also got a couple Systimatic blades that have been good. If you use Amazon, be sure to go through the portal here at the Creek. Both Infinity and Holbren ( Amanna, CMT, Forrest, Tenryu, Ridge Carbide, and Oshlun) offer 10% off to members here. Use code SMC10 in the comments and they will take the deduction before charging your card. Doesn't work on their coupon code line, but they will apply it manually. Good luck! Jim.

[Glen Butler]

I own one tenryu blade and several freuds. I am completely impressed with the tenryu. It is the mel-pro and works beautifully. Perfect melamine edges. I am ready to try something other than freud for my general purpose blades though.

3 of my 4 freud industrial blades have a lot of wobble on start up of the saw. I don't know if that is normal. I feel it may contribute to not as clean of a cut. When I gauge the teeth of the 3 they vary, but not on the 1 that doesn't wobble. I feel this may contribute to not as clean of a cut. Cause when you feed wood into the blade, the blade slows down slightly, this change in speed causes vibration in the blade, and may be the reason I am seeing tooth marks in my cuts. And the fact that the blade is not laterally stiff will contribute to this.

Someone else please confirm or deny the truth of this.

[Lee Schierer]

I have owned several Freud blades and the cut on all of them has been excellent. They are about half the price of Woodwrker II blades. Check out Rockler Woodcraft and others. I typically use a 24 tooth rip blade and a LU72 for the majority of my cuts.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Starting a Forrest war again? I like the Forrest, don't own a Tenryu, so can't compare. I also have 3 Freuds, it all depends on what you like. IMO, as long as you are spending over 50 bucks, you're getting a good blade. IMO there is no BEST blade. I do like the Forrest, cuts clean, stable. For bang for the buck, I'd say Freud.

[scott spencer]

I agree with Kyle...there really is no "best". There are several excellent blades available from a variety of brands. Which is best usually boils down the what's being cut and on what saw. Buy the blade, not the brand. Identify the type blade that best suits your needs, then scope out deals from Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu, Amana, CMT, Freud, DeWalt/Delta, Leitz, or Systimatic.

I'm often a supporter of thin kerf blades for smaller motors, but I'd use caution picking a TK for a span as wide as a 12" blade.

[Richard McComas]

I just bought one of these about a week ago. So far I'm happy with it. For general purpose blade it cuts very well with a nice smooth surface.


http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P412-Premier-12-Inch-Perma-Shield/dp/B00119R51G

[Joel Blauvelt]

I bought the Ridge Carbide. As others have stated, this is an awesome blade. Sort of like a shark...lots of big sharp teeth :D:D This new blade seemed to be a nice improvement over a Diablo blade that was on my saw when I bought it. Glass like finish on the cuts.

I would not hesitate to get this blade again.

Have not tried Forrest blades however.

[Dave Cav]

I have a couple of 12" Oshlun blades from Holbern in my 12" table saw. One is a rip blade, the other is a combination. Both work fine and the price was very reasonable. The carbide isn't as thick as an Amana, but for the price I am very happy with them. I do mostly ripping on the 12" saw, little to no crosscut work.

On my Unisaw I use Amana blades for finer work, and Freud or Oshlun for regular or rougher work.

I believe SMC members still get a discount from Holbern.

[Kent A Bathurst]

heh-heh-heh - you had to do it, eh? ask about TS blades. Get ready for the standard responses from the usual suspects:D including me

get one blade to do both - Forrest WWII.

[Van Huskey]

I just bought one of these about a week ago. So far I'm happy with it. For general purpose blade it cuts very well with a nice smooth surface.


http://www.amazon.com/Freud-P412-Premier-12-Inch-Perma-Shield/dp/B00119R51G


+1 for the P412. I like the P410s (10 inch version) I have better then my WWIIs. The HiATB grind gives nice polished cuts, you may find that it covers all your needs. I rarely put on another blade unless I am doing a lot (or over 8/4) ripping or a lot of plywood cuts.

[Rod Sheridan]

I buy FS Tools blades, they're available from various suppliers.

I'm lucky, I live close to their Markham headquarters, very handy when I need things sharpened or custom ground.

Regards, Rod.

[glenn bradley]

I buy FS Tools blades, they're available from various suppliers.

I'm lucky, I live close to their Markham headquarters, very handy when I need things sharpened or custom ground.

Regards, Rod.

Impressive stuff. Serious tooling. Is $90 about their normal price for a rip blade or do you have a more reasonable source?

[Rod Sheridan]

Impressive stuff. Serious tooling. Is $90 about their normal price for a rip blade or do you have a more reasonable source?

Glenn, it's been years since I bought a rip blade from them. That may well be the current price, their tooling is very good, better than the normal retail branded stuuf in my opinion.

Regards, Rod.

[Erik Christensen]

I understand frugal - I was hardwired at a young age for that mindset & it is hard to change; but there are times when it gives you the wrong answer.

If you only use your tools a couple of times a year it probably does not make that much difference if you buy a mid-priced or high end blade (never do dirt cheap on tooling). On the other hand if you are in your shop pretty much evey weekend you should consider the value of materials you are going to be consuming - for example is it really a good idea to save maybe 50 bucks on a blade that is going to have 10's of thousands of $$ worth of wood pushed through it if the high end blade gives noticably superior results?

[Tom Henderson2]

Hi Dave-

I'd suggest that you also buy a mid-grade blade for use when rough-sizing stock.

By mid-grade I'm thinking $30ish. Like an Avanti, or similar. They do pretty darn well and there is no sense using up the life of your primo blades for surfaces that will be removed later anyway.

You'll be surprised that most of your cuts will fall into the "rough" cut category. At least that is my experience.

This will allow you to save your primo blades for the cuts that really count, thus extending their life and saving you many dollars.

Lots of ways to skin this cat.

-TH

[Jeff Monson]

Forrest WWII for me also, I love this blade.