Router Table Plate Leveling Screws

[Jeff Sudmeier]

Hi All,

I am building a router table and I have discovered that my router plate isn't perfect. For that reason I would like to install some leveling screws.

Anyone have a source?

Thanks! jeff

[Norman Pyles]

My Rockler router plate came with leveling screws, but I just built up the edges with masking tape. I was too lazy to drill the holes.

[Bill Huber]

I am not sure what your table is made of but I have a phenolic table and used set screws up from the bottom with lock nuts on them, it works very well. I tapped the phenolic for 1/4-20 and ran the screws up and then locked them with a nut.

I have one on each corner and one in the center of the short sides and three on the long sides, total of 12.

I used 1/4-20 set screws and got them from small parts.

http://www.smallparts.com/

[Stephen Edwards]

When you say that your router table plate isn't perfect, what do you mean? Do you mean that it sits lower than the table, thus the need for leveling screws? (Leveling screws can certainly solve this problem).

Or, do you mean that the plate itself isn't perfectly flat? For example, does it have a bad crown or dip in the plate itself? (that would be another problem altogether.)

[Joe Cowan]

I got mine from Woodhaven and they are wonderful.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

When you say that your router table plate isn't perfect, what do you mean? Do you mean that it sits lower than the table, thus the need for leveling screws? (Leveling screws can certainly solve this problem).

Or, do you mean that the plate itself isn't perfectly flat? For example, does it have a bad crown or dip in the plate itself? (that would be another problem altogether.)


When I routed the recess I used a flush trim bit and a plywood template. It turns out that the plywood wasn't exactly the same thickness. So leveling screws will solve the problem.

Just was wondering what everyone used. I have threaded inserts laying around so I thought about installing those and just using 1/4-20 bolts but didn't know what was best.

The router table top is MDF.

[Conrad Fiore]

Jeff,
Most router plates are thru drilled and tapped for socket head cup point set screws. I just made up a new aluminum plate for my router table to replace the sagging phenolic plate. I used size 10-32 set screws for mine. If you decide to go with the set screws, you will need a drill and tap for the size set screws you decide to use.

[Brian D Anderson]

I used the Kreg router levelers on my table. No need to worry about routing a recess. Just route all the way through and install these on the underside of the table:

http://216.119.73.43/products/images/prd_98.jpg

http://www.kregtool.com/products/prs/product.php?PRODUCT_ID=98

I've had them on my table for a year and they work great.

-Brian

[Rick Erickson]

Jeff, you can get those little black leveling screws at the box stores. They are in the hardware section in those metal 'specialty' drawers. They have all different sizes.

[glenn bradley]

When I used plates I just had 4 Confirmat screws screwed through a 1/4" hole, up from below in each of the four corners. I had left extra area in the rabbet for this. Worked fine for years and would probabaly still be working but, I changed tops.

[Wayne Cannon]

I'll second Joe's recommendation for the ones from Woodhaven. They work with or without a lip/rabbet around the hole in the top, are easy to adjust, and hold their settings well.

Woodhaven router plate levelers (http://woodhaven.com/search.htm?keyword=plate+levelers)

[keith ouellette]

I have a phenolic plate and I leveled mine in a different way.

I used epoxy puddy.

I rolled the puddy into thin strips and laid them around the recess that the plate fits into.

Then I put strips plastic wrap over the epoxy to create a barrier between it and the plate.

I gently placed the plate into the recess and pushed down using a jointed 2x4 across the length of the plate so it would sit flat with the table.

It worked great and the entire plate was supported on along its entire edge.

[Josiah Bartlett]

When I used plates I just had 4 Confirmat screws screwed through a 1/4" hole, up from below in each of the four corners. I had left extra area in the rabbet for this. Worked fine for years and would probabaly still be working but, I changed tops.


I have those too but I find that they slip after a while. I'm just going to drill and tap the router plate for the set screws next time, that way when I run multiple router plates in the same hole I can adjust each one individually and I can do it from the top of the table.