32 mm hole drilling jig options

[Frank Martin]

I am planning to try out the euro system on several cabinets including future potential kitchen cabinet build. In general, I like router based systems. Although I have quite a few Festools, I am not sure if this is the best system out there. Seems like there a quite a few set up steps and one would need to reposition the guide rail to dril the secong or third set of holes on the same cabinet part.

What are some of the high quality and fast hole drilling systems out there? I am looking for systems for a home shop, i.e., a few hundred dollars range (not commercial machinery) but I appreciate high quality gear.

[Glen Butler]

Perhaps I am not as savvy as others but I feel doing a 32mm system without a line bore would be rough. The idea is to line bore every side piece indiscriminately for mounting doors, drawers, and shelves. The majority of the hardware is installed before you assemble the boxes, so you aren't having to climb in them or worry about tight quarters. Delta makes a manual line bore for about $1100, so more than you were thinking. Short of that you could use the 32mm system for simplifying door and drawer sizes, but manually mount everything to the box, post production. There are jigs available for positioning mounting plates and glides, which would more fit your budget, then you just have to do the tedious work of drilling shelf support pegs where ever you desire adjustable shelves.

[Karl Brogger]

With out a CNC the "32mm system" is a time consuming pain in the rear. Its not real fun even with a line bore. The nicest part about it is using the 5mm screws to mount things, pretty solid even in particle board.

I've got a pnuematic Delta line bore, I think I paid $600 for it at an auction. It paid for itself in no time.

[Rob Wright]

How about this one? http://megproducts.com/
http://megproducts.com/tool.jpg

I used one similar to it with my plunge router. I then used it to make a 5/8" Baltic birch template the exact size of a standard base cabinet with all of the rows of 32mm holes at the correct offsets from the front/back. I use a plunge router with a 5mm spiral and a 5/8" guide bushing - I think it is the one used on the PC blind dovetail jig since it is only about 1/4" long. I used the blum process 32 manual to get the offset, but used the KISS II system from knobs and pull for the actual top to bottom offsets since they use an "unhanded" side panel system. After I got that first template done - yes it was a PITA - I now can just clamp that to a properly cut side panel and plunge away. The other nice thing about this method is that I can plunge and use only the holes I need to - I don't have to drill all 24 increments for the base cab - it does save some time IMHO.

[Glen Butler]

That jig would work, or you could make your own, and use this drill

http://www.eurolimited.com/1024/eurobit/eurobit1024.htm

I still think you should not bother drilling every side. You can use this to mount your hinge plates.

http://www.ez-mount.net/SCP-0105.html

You could use this for simplifying drawer installation. It uses the same bit above.

http://www.eurolimited.com/1024/uniguide/uniguide1024.htm

[Bill Neely]

I have the Kurka jig from Woodhaven. It has three phenolic templates for both left and right hand panels, the middle being for drawer runners if used. If you are doing more than just a box or two this is a great setup. They sell a 5mm vix type bit that fits the 3/8" template holes but I use my OF1010 with a boring bit which is very fast and bores crisp clean holes.

I've used the J & R Enterprises jig and my own homebuilt aluminum jig and the Kurka is the next best thing to a line drill.

[Frank Martin]

Line boring machines are not an option due to cost/space issue. Seems like the Meg Products jig is closest to what I am looking for. At least it seems more straight forward to use compared to the Festool system.

Thanks again for all the replies and Happy New Year!

[james bell]

I have done two complete kitchens plus a bunch of cabinets for my shop with 32mm hinges - just used my drill press and excellent results. There are probably many inexpensive options from rockler/etc which will make the job easier - but you don't need to spend lots of money on this.

the only time i needed my wife to assist was when i was putting the hinges on 8' x 2' - 3/4 mdf for shop cabinets. no problem with the middle hole, but for the ones at the end I certainly needed assistance.

That said, I was dumb and did the first kitchen using a router mounting under a piece of scrap corian on top of some 2x4 legs. adjusting to get the raised panel/cope/stile bits were a challenge. Large kitchen with approximately 30 cabinet doors! for the second kitchen, i got a jess'em router table - what a difference. If I knew I was going to do another kitchen, probably would have gotten a router table earlier.

[Steve Roxberg]

I have the Kurka jig from Woodhaven. It has three phenolic templates for both left and right hand panels, the middle being for drawer runners if used. If you are doing more than just a box or two this is a great setup. They sell a 5mm vix type bit that fits the 3/8" template holes but I use my OF1010 with a boring bit which is very fast and bores crisp clean holes.

I've used the J & R Enterprises jig and my own homebuilt aluminum jig and the Kurka is the next best thing to a line drill.

If you use your router with the Kurka Jig do you need to pick it up for every hole? That would wear me out.

It looks really nice for under $200 and I like the idea of being able to set it up once vs the multiple steps required with the LR-32.

[Matt Meiser]

There's an episode of NYW where Norm makes his own version of the MEG jig. I made one and have used it on numerous projects and its quick, accurate, and easy. I made mine to the 1" standard and use a 1/4" spiral bit but there's no reason you couldn't make it to the 32mm standard and use a 5mm bit.

[Steve Rowe]

Frank,
I had a line bore but sold it because it simply took up way to much floor space. While it bored 29 holes perfectly, I found the setup way too time consuming.

I have a Rockler jig which was good for drilling holes 37mm from the front edge but not very good anywhere else. Also, if you drill a lot of holes, this will be very tiring and cumbersome.

I had considered the MEG but this meant lifting the router after each hole, lining the collet up with the jig and this was in my mind very cumbersome and would be even more tiring than the drill with the Rockler jig.

I ended up with the Festool LR32 system. Honestly, the first few times I used it, it was cumbersome with setup for the initial drilling timeconsuming. Once I got used to it, I drill holes accurately and relatively fast although not as fast as the line bore. It is not cumbersome any longer and I don't have to pick up a router after every hole like the MEG. The router just slides along the guide rail and locks into the next hole position which is much less tiring. It is not the fastest thing in the world but, it is cost effective and accurate.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I make my own line boring jigs, which are similar, but better than the MEG. I make both 1" OC, and 32MM OC jigs. Mine uses a router with guide bushing, and either 1/4", or 5MM bits. I use a little B&D Quantum router, originally made by ELU, and later sold under the DeWalt brand. It's the one with the funny handle on one side. I include the ability to compensate for the rabbet of the back (MEG doesn't) so lines of holes are spaced the same from front and back (inside) of the cabinet. My neighbor turns me pins that are 1/4" on one need, and 5 MM on the other for advancing jig. Because my jig is plywood, I can take fence off and use it on the back of a wide cabinet. Total cost per jig, labor not included) is between $1.00, and $4.00 depending upon whether I use wing nuts, or knobs. Deadly accurate, unlike Norms. Tried his, and it wasn't close enough for my needs. MEG also makes a plywood version of their jig, which is cheaper.

[Bill Neely]

If you use your router with the Kurka Jig do you need to pick it up for every hole? That would wear me out.

It looks really nice. for under $200 and I like the idea of being able to set it up once vs the multiple steps required with the LR-32.

It is a nice setup.

I tried drilling the holes with a vix type bit first and wasn't real happy with the outcome so I used a small Makita plunge router 3620, now I use the OF1010. Both the routers are light and it isn't any more work than using a drill but there is no tearout on the holes.

I've also used my homemade aluminum jig and one from A&R and I like the Kurka much better.

[frank shic]

another vote for the J&R drill jig although i hope they've developed a slightly better website by now... i've tried router driven drill jigs in the past but they're so noisy and i hate picking up the router every time. keep in mind that you do not need to drill EVERY hole if it's not needed using the manual method. i love using the delta line drill as all you have to do is shove a measured piece of wood behind the fence to calibrate for front holes and back holes for upper or lower cabs and if you set up the fence stops correctly, you can bore an entire line of holes in just two passes.

just found the updated website:
http://jandrdrilljig.com/