Home made sliding table for my table saw

[Mike Francis]

I was interested to find out if anyone made their own sliding table for their tablesaw instead of buying one. I do not want to use a crosscut sled anymore, I want something permanently attached to my tablesaw. I have looked at many of the units that you can buy and I am not sure if I want to spend the money. I googled many times to find some ideas or plans on some home made ones with no luck. I have my own welder and I wanted to fabricate my own and I have a relative who owns a sheet metal shop and I can get help from there. I am sure there may be some simple plans and some elaborate ones also that someone has created and I was hoping to find either plans or pictures to help me. I have located bearings & shafts from McMaster Carr that can be used if needed and I have access to the material but I just need some direction on the design.
Thanks,
Mike

[Philip Rodriquez]

FWW had an article a while back. I remember that someone over there posted pics of theirs.

I, however, have an Excalibur attached to my ICS Sawstop and love it. I've had the slider for 5 years and cannot imagine life without it.

[Mike Francis]

I have most of the FWW issues and I looked at all the ones I had and no luck to find any info. I was suprised I did not locate any plans for a home made version but I will keep looking.
Mike

[Kent A Bathurst]

Mike - Antique - #19 Dec 79 - TIps section - comments follow. PDF too large for SMC to swallow - will send via PM:

For stability, I selected mahogany for the solid-wood pieces and 3/4-in., 14-ply aircraft plywood for the table and guide bed; any good-quality hardwood and hardwood plywood could be substituted. You'll need a 4x4 sheet of plywood and several 4-ft. lengths of hardwood in various dimensions for the sliding table and guide bed. Make the support stand from pine or whatever is available.

The guide bed attaches to the left side of the table saw (in place of the left extension wing) using existing mounting holes and hardware. The mounting bracket for the bed also doubles as a retainer hook to keep the sliding table from tipping with long, heavy pieces. A guide rail on the bed keeps the sliding table parallel to the sawblade.

The sliding table is a plywood panel with two strips on its bottom to form a channel for the guide rail. One of the channel strips doubles as a lip to fit under the bed's retainer hook. The support stand is an H-frame dimensioned to support the bed. I used mortise-and-tenon construction. Furniture levelers in the top give needed adjustment capability.

To construct the fixture, first rip the bed, table and retainer hook strips from the plywood. Glue up the retainer hook and glue and screw it in a dado cut in the bed. Cut a groove in the support beam and install it on the left edge of the bed with glue and screws. Cut the guide rail to size but save the installation for later.

Next, cut a dado in the bottom of the sliding table and mount the left-hand channel strip in the dado, screwing from the bottom without glue so the strip can be replaced when worn. Now, to set the channel gap accurately, place the guide rail temporarily against the left-hand channel strip and glue the right-hand channel strip in place on the table bottom.

Complete the support stand, mount the bed to the saw and level it, using the furniture levelers between the stand and the support beam. Set the sliding table in place and shim out 1/16 in. or so from the retainer hook. Now slide the guide rail into its channel and carefully fasten in place with screws through the bottom of the bed. To complete the fixture, paraffin all contact surfaces to cut down friction.

[Jim O'Dell]

Kent, I'd be interested in seeing your PDF also. My email can be found in my public profile. You might also try to add a picture or 2 (or 10!!:rolleyes:) to this thread. Thanks! Jim.