Wolverine "Recipe book"?

[Greg Ketell]

I have a Wolverine and can easily sharpen things like my roughing gouge, skews, and Thompson tools (that came with a recipe). But does anyone have any "recipes" for sharpening spindle gouges, etc with the Wolverine?

I figure we need "angle of vari-grind" and extension of tool out of vari-grind and we could build a recipe for any tools.

Has anyone done this before? Or have anything like this?

GK

[Jamie Straw]

I'm also learning with the Wolverine. Are you speaking of the VeriGrind 2, or the original VeriGrind? I know that with the VeriGrind 2, all gouges are positioned to have 1-3/4" exposed tip. Have you watched the DVD that comes with the jig? Important to do that, he explains how to set the jig, and the difference between sharpening a spindle gouge and sharpening a bowl gouge, for instance.

As far as I can tell, with spindle gouges, the most important thing is to know what you're trying to develop shape-wise, and watch the tool as you grind. The first part of that sentence is the hardest part for me. :rolleyes:

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Greg,

There are folks out there that have made setup jigs for the Vari-grind.

Basically what they did was work with the Vari-grind until it gets the grind they want on the particular gouge.

They then make a plywood jig that mimicks the distance and touches the grinding wheel in 2 places. Thus you get the distance set exactly every time. They wrote the angle setting of the Vari-grind for that gouge and the name of the gouge on the jig.

The jig looks kinda like a capital "Y".

I hope this makes sense.

Of course, you always have to have the same amount of gouge protruding from the vari-grind. I have a jig for that too.

[Doug Thompson]

Keep it simple, the leg angle on the Vari-Grind sets the wings on a bowl gouge which is very important now spindle gouges don't have wings so the same leg setting can be used. Change the V arm to set the nose angle to about 40 degrees for spindle gouges but never change the Vari-Grind leg angle... keep it simple because it works.

[Jon Finch]

I'll mostly echo what everyone else is saying. I'm new to this too but this is what I do.

Tool projection from the jig doesn't really matter. But pick a value and use it with all your tools. I use 2" which helps to keep the jig away from the wheel when grinding the sides.

If you have a gouge that already has a fingernail (or swept back) profile then guess at a leg angle and adjust the v-arm in or out until the wheel is touching the full bevel at the nose of the gouge. Now rotate the jig so the side grind is against the wheel. Does the wheel touch the full length of the side bevel? Probably not, so adjust the leg until it does. Now swing the tool back so the nose is against the wheel and adjust the v-arm again until the bevel is against the wheel. Swing back over to the side and adjust the leg again if needed. A couple times, back and forth, and you'll be rubbing the bevel at the nose and side. Now mark the jig or write down the leg position or take a picture so you don't have to hunt and peck to find the correct angle next time.

As a general rule the farther down the arm the more side grinding you'll do. And conversely, the further up the arm is the less (i.e. fully 100% up would be like not having the jig at all and just using the v-arm like sharpening a roughing gouge).

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Here's the link to the free downloads from Oneway for the use of their product.

http://oneway.ca/multi-media/wolverine_videos.htm

[Gordon Seto]

Tormek does a much better job in this area. Even if you don't use the Tormek, this chart shows the results of various jig leg angle settings (JS). The principle is the same.
As Jon has pointed out with the same nose angle, the higher the JS setting, the longer the side grind.
http://i118.photobucket.com/albums/o83/gbseto/TormekSVD-185copy.jpg
All the jig will allow you to get a repeatable consistent grind every time with minimal waste of tool steel. You still have to know where to stop and where to grind more.

[Wayne Kuhn]

Tool projection from the vari-gring does not matter. However when roughing out a bowl and multiple sharpening is required it does.
Once I set my v-arm length from the wheel and with a set projection out of the vari-grind I can go back to the grinder and be back to lathe with a sharp tool in less than a minute (or two.)

[Steve Kubien]

I'm with Doug. I have a block glued beside my grinder which sets the extension from the jig and I haven't moved the arm of my vari-grind in about a year. The only thing that changes is the V-arm of the Wolverine. I am really happy with my spindle, detail and bowl gouges with one exception... I am not thrilled with the wings on my 1/2U Thompson gouge. The 3/8"U is exactly how I want it but I am doing something weird with the 1/2". -sigh- Not something I tend to worry about.

Steve

[Bernie Weishapl]

I agree with Doug. I have two vari-grinds. One for spindle gouges and one for bowl gouges.