The Saw Blade Debate Continues

[Chuck Fischer]

Ok guys, I use a Forrest WWII in my Jet contractor saw, I've been very impressed with it. It’s a thin kerf blade though and I've been thinking that I would like to use a full 1/8 kerf blade because sometimes it’s easier to subtract a 1/8th of an inch on the fly, when doing multiple cuts. Probably not a good practice, but anyway, the point is I've been thinking of getting another blade so I can send the WWII out for sharpening, so I'm wanting some advice. Keep in mind that I'm broke since my daughter was born, so another wwII would probably be out of the question, but if I can't get that quality of a cut from a cheaper blade, then I'll just wait and buy another WWII when I can afford it. The question is, can I use a 1/8th blade and if so what brand would be comparable to the WWII? Oh, I'm also only running on 110V right now... will be moving up to 220 sometime soon.

Chuck

[Donnie Raines]

I am a big Amana fan. The cut is great and the price is right(about 55 bucks). I have a WW2 and like it....but I see no obvious advantage to it over the Amana.

I have many other blades, :D too....I guess I have a fetish for blades...... :D

[Chris Padilla]

I recommend The General from CMT. Google "CMT General" and you should get lots of hits and find a good price...probably half the WWII.

[Jim Becker]

To answer your specific question, you can use a standard kerf blade with no problem on your contactors' style saw. There are very few situations where a thin-kerf blade is going to do anything for you.

That said, I have a Forrest WW-II Thin Kerf "in storage" that never gets used. Contact me privately and I can work out something with you as a second blade...it's easier to have two identical blades than one 'o each.

[Kurt Aebi]

I too am a fan of Amana.

It cuts very well, thumbs included - it butterflied mine with no problem. The blood, etc. cleaned right off and a year later,it is still in the saw and working perfectly. As for the thumb, it has healed fine, lost the movement in the outermost joint, but that thing (nor any other body part) gets near that blade with the saw plugged in at all!

Take care and above all - think safe & then work safe.

[Scott Parks]

I have a $40 Frued thin kerf that I'm very happy with. I've had it in for 3 years.. I do use a stiffener, though.

[Don Abele]

Chuck, picking a blade is like picking your tool color. Lots of choices, most equal performers. Just a matter of picking your color. I personally use Freud blades - I have an 80 tooth miter blade, a 50 tooth combo, and a 24 tooth rip blade. With the exception of a recently noted missing tooth on my miter blade (currently being replaced/sharpened) I've not had any problems what so ever and love them. The teflon coated versions work much better than the plain ones (easier to push stock through). I don't like the thin kerf models so have always stuck with "standard blades." Again, all in your preference, but I agree with Jim - pick one and stick with it so you don't have to adjust your habits when you switch blades (thin/thick).

Be well,

Doc

[Chuck Fischer]

Thanks for the replys guys, this forum is amazing, I figured most people would just say "Asked a million times" and move on... thank you.

I'll probably hold off for a while since I just spent my budget at the chicago show on some whiteside router bits... but at this point I know that I probably can't go wrong with a combo blade from either Freud or Amanna. I have heard a lot of good things about Freud stuff actually. (I hope I am spelling that ok, Im not such a strong speller)

Anyway, thanks again guys,
Chuck

[Steve Clardy]

No WWII's though. [I'm not that old yet.:eek:]
Just purchased two Frued thin's, great out of the box. Probably buy them again.
Steve:)

[Tom LaRussa]

Hi Chuck,

Welcome to log-heaven. (Okay, really bad pun, I know. Sorry.)


I figured most people would just say "Asked a million times" and move on... thank you.
It has been asked a million times, but since we're all absolutely certain we are right about everything we are happy to hash it out once more.

Now, the truth is, if you spend more than $50 for a saw blade you're probably being robbed by one of those companies whose products I've never tried but about which I am nonetheless and expert. :eek:

{{{tee-hee-hee}}}

But seriously, you can put me down as another happy Freud fan. I've got two of the 80 tooth, thin kerf, superfine crosscutting blades, (don't know the exact model number), and use them for just about everything except plastic, (for which I keep an old junker).

They give a cut on rosewood that looks and feels almost burnished, and they really do cost less than $50 -- at the BORG no less!

Tom