Recommendation for new Coping Saw

[Don Morris]

I had a hand me down relic of a coping saw which "gave up the ghost". One of the few metal parts broke...obviously not repairable. Since I've never looked into this, before I just pick up what's available at my local Woodcraft or order whatever I find on the net, is there a brand of coping saws that you guys always "go to"? Or do they all work about the same and it doesn't matter much? Thanks for any input.

[Jeff Willard]

Or do they all work about the same and it doesn't matter much?

It seems that that is the case. Performance is probably tied more to the blade than the frame itself. Unless, maybe, you are looking at one of the adjustable frame type fret saws. All they really have to do is tension a blade. Myself, I have an Eclipse fret saw, and a generic (Buck Bros.?) coping saw that I'm sure came from HD. It doesn't appear to be of particularly high quality, but doesn't seem like it'll fall apart either, unless it gets some serious "help". Either one will do the few simple tasks I ask of them, and none are terribly expensive.

This one looks a little nicer than the one I have...
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=toolshop&Product_Code=MS-COPE.XX&Category_Code=TS

...but functionally, probably identical.

[Michael Faurot]

Christopher Schwarz just did a little article about coping saws that you might find informative. This won't answer your question, but it might help you figure out what to look for:

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Coping+Saws+From+Bricks+To+Fretwork+Frogs.aspx?utm _source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+woodworkingmagazine+%28Woodwo rking+Magazine%29

[Chris S Anderson]

I use a coping saw (buck brothers) for coping crown molding, and an adjustable fret saw (woodcraft) when doing dovetails.

One thing about the adjustabe fret that I learned from a Rob Cosman dvd was its ability to change angles so that you can do very long pieces. Nice trick.

[Robert Rozaieski]

I don't like modern coping saws. The frames can't tension the blades enough for precision work. I prefer a wooden framed turning saw tensioned with cord and toggle. The Grammercy model is supposed to be top notch. I use a vintage one myself but modified the pins to accept the Grammercy bowsaw blades. It is worlds better than any coping saw I've ever used.

Traditional Woodworker also sells a 15" model that may be worth a look.

[Don Morris]

Thanks guys for the input. I'm going to do some checking on items you mentioned. I didn't ever think there was a debate about which way the teeth went. In the Dental technology field, which I taught for a number of years, we always taught newbees (with their new coping saws) to place the blades facing them. This is because you have more control pulling towards you than pushing away from you. This phenomena was tested by physiologists, and least that's what we were told. The reason you carve pushing away is safety.

[David Gendron]

+1 on the Gramercy bow saw(turning saw) I use mine for all kind of work, from scrole work of all size, to delicat wast removal of DT! I have a coping saw but never use it!

[harry strasil]

I prefer to cut on the push stroke which is a no-no with a modern coping saw, so I made a bow saw frame that uses pin type coping saw blades.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/wood/copingsaw.jpg

The handles are just drawknifed and spokeshaved to shape and a 1/4 " hole drilled thru them with a counter bore on the end and Carriage bolts with the threads cut off and a slot and a notch for the pins for attachment. All scrap Walnut.

[Chris S Anderson]

Oh, I like that much more that your cirlce jig! Nice work.

[Graham Hughes (CA)]

Or do they all work about the same and it doesn't matter much?

From personal experience I can testify that there are a large number of absolutely terrible coping saw frames out there that can't maintain blade tension worth a damn. Assuming you avoid these dogs, the blade quality itself will account for a lot of the performance difference, but you'll still have problems with e.g. the blade nuts twisting in use and the like.

Honestly I use the Gramercy bow saw and am quite delighted with it. It's not always as easy to set up as a metal-framed coping saw but it is much easier to tension and generally works considerably better.

[Don Morris]

Well if it's blade quality, like a good blade in a TS, is there a brand of blades for coping saws that I should look at in addition to the type of saw itself?

[Casey Gooding]

I have the one that Jeff recommended. I really like it a lot.

[James Taglienti]

just buy any old coping saw. get a fine tooth blade and a coarse. you're good to go. or you can make a beautiful one like harry.

[Michael Faurot]

Christopher Schwarz has an update, on his blog, concerning coping saws:

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/FatMax+Coping+Saw+Locks+Tight.aspx?utm_source=feed burner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+woodworkingmagazine+%28Woodwo rking+Magazine%29

Sounds like the Stanley FatMax may be a decent choice.

[Richard Magbanua]

I read that this morning. Funny, after all of Stanley's new premium hand plane releases it's their coping saw that gets the best review :rolleyes: