Best DC 1 1/2 to 2 Hp?

[Jerry Olexa]

Great advice from all of you (Chris, John, Jim, et al)in my thread re shop(s) setup/dust control. But really need to know your thoughts on the brands preferred? It'll be non cyclone at his point and will add upgraded bags and a second stage. Looking at Jet, Delta, Penn State (appears Oneida only makes cyclones) and even considering the HF 2HP (value priced) esp if I need 2 units. You guys are the experts and I really respect your opinions more than the mags. Tell me the way to go even if it hurts! (Ouch) Respectfully, Jerry:confused:

[Mike Weaver]

I must have missed your reasoning for passing on a cyclone.
Just curoius!

If a cyclone REALLY won't do, then I'd seriously consider retrofitting a non-cyclone unit with a cartidge filter as outlined on Wynn Environmental's website.

That said, even the HF 2hp unit may get a best buy from me (assuming you seal any leaks that may be present).

Anyway, back to work and that's my $.02. :)

-Mike

[Tyler Howell]

Jerry,

I have a great Jet 1hp 650 CFM, but it is just one machine at a time. Cant say a negative thing about it other than I should have bought a bigger one.

[Jim Becker]

With the exception of the HFT "2hp" unit, 2hp DCs require 240v for operation...if you can support that, you should get a 2hp unit...with a cartridge filter. If you cannot do 240v, but can support a dedicated 120v 20 amp circuit, than the 1.5hp units...with a cartrige filter...will be nice. The HFT unit is servicable, but needs the filter bags replaced before you even turn it on...you can practically drive a truck between the threads. (A friend of mine has one). Be sure you figure that into the cost when making your comparisons.

[John Miliunas]

Jerry, in my old smaller shop, I ran a Bridgewood 2hp DC. I had it ducted through 4" pipe throughout the shop and, even the planer, which was pretty much at the end of the run (numerous bends to get there, no less!) got the chips picked up just fine. I had it piped and dumping into one of those garbage can/seperator type units. Much easier emptying it out that way, as the bags are usuall a PITA to do. The caveats being, it does take more real estate and does take away from the efficiency a bit. On the good side, you don't have garbage going directly through you impellor! If I'm not mistaken, the BW comes with 1 micron bags, though you do need to go through all the seams on the unit to be sure you don't have air leaks. :cool:

[Tom LaRussa]

Looking at Jet, Delta, Penn State ... and even considering the HF 2HP (value priced) esp if I need 2 units.
Jerry,

Basically, you are choosing among a bunch of very similar units -- all 1.5 HP with bag filters. (Note that I include the HF "2HP" unit among the 1.5s because, as Jim says, the physics are simply stacked against pulling 2HP from a standard 15 amp 110 VDC circuit.)

So here's what I think you should do:

[1] Pick from among these units based on impeller diameter. Assuming the RPMs of the motors are the same, a 12" impeller driven by a 1.5HP motor will pull more air than a 10" impeller driven by a 3HP motor. So, the larger the impeller the better. Period.

[2] Plumb with 6" pipe to all your big machines if it's humanly possible to do so. Otherwise you won't get the needed 800 CFM to pick up all those nasty little particles that want to burrow deep into your lungs. Don't fall into the trap of thinking that 4" branches off a 6" main will do.

In general, unless you're running more than one of your big machines at the same time, having a drop in size from the main to the branch just limits your air flow for no reason. In the case of dropping from 6" to 4" you are going from adequate air flow to inadequate air flow.

[3] Whichever unit you buy, order a 300 square foot canister filter from Wynne Environmental at the same time. (Great guy, Mr. Wynne -- often answers the phone himself, and likes to yack with woodworkers.) There are various threads around the web that show how the conversion is done, or you can just make it up as you go along. Personally I did a bit of both, i.e., used knowledge gleaned from the web, added my own wrinkles, & simplified some things a bit.

[4] If you want the filter, (which runs from about $65 to about $89, depending on whether you want fire retardent), to last a long time, you will need some kind of setup to keep big stuff from damaging it, as well as keeping it from getting too caked with small particles. But that's a topic for several more posts, so I'll leave it alone for now.

HTH,

Tom

[Don Abele]

Jerry, 4 years ago I bought the Jet DC-1100. It's a 1 1/2 hp unit. It worked great, but after a couple of years and reading online info, I realized I needed to get rid of those nasty 30 micron bags. When I started doing research into AFF bags, I ran into someone else who was looking for a DC and sold mine to him. I then bought the DC-1200CK. This is the 2 hp unit with the cartridge filter. While I had no complaints about the 1 1/2 hp unit, the 2 hp unit performs much better. The cartridge filter upper and solid plastic lower bags are really why I bought this unit. After the 1st, maybe the 2nd time of emptying that bag into a trash bag, I knew I didn't like that. Being able to just tie the plastic bag off and throw it into the trash is nice. The cartridge filter also works significantly better than those bags. If I remember correctly, it's rated at 5 microns and it has a huge surface area. I'd highly recommend the DC-1200CK unit.

Be well,

Doc

[Steven Wilson]

When I was looking at upgrading my DC the only non-cyclone units that made sense (good usable CFM and decent filtration) were the Felder RL-125, Felder RL-160, and the JET DC-1200CK; the Jet of course is the least expensive. I ended up with an Oneida 2HP commercial cyclone because it takes up less floor space than the others and had performance sufficient for my requirements.

[Jerry Olexa]

Thanks guys for your recos. I know I'm being a bit dumb sticking to a non cyclone but don't really want to rewire 220V nor invest the extra $ at this time for my "hobby". (see earlier thread). I guess I want to walk/learn before I run. Your ideas have helped w the decision and I will mull over during my trip next week. Thanks much. "Dusty" :)

[Jim Becker]

I know I'm being a bit dumb sticking to a non cyclone but don't really want to rewire 220V nor invest the extra $ at this time for my "hobby".
Makes sense. But do remember you need a dedicated circuit for the DC even under 120v. If you have to pull wire...it's the same labor (and wire usually) regardless of the voltage...

[Dick Parr]

Don't forget Grizzly has a pretty good 2hp DC for a good price.

[Christopher Pine]

Hi all I have a dust collector that I have yet to install. I want to build a small outcropped "closet" or what have you on the exteriro of the shop (Garage) insulate it for noise and pipe into the shop. With this being done I was thinking that it does not really matter that much if I have the smaller micron bags or not, all of the dust is outside the shop. Other than, I may have to clean the closet occassionally. Is this thinking correct?

Chris

[John Miliunas]

Chris, I think your basic concept is right, but there is one other point to remember: If you're conditioning your shop air (cold or heat), you'll be losing a LOT of it when venting outside the shop. Just something to consider... :cool:

[Jim Becker]

With this being done I was thinking that it does not really matter that much if I have the smaller micron bags or not, all of the dust is outside the shop. Other than, I may have to clean the closet occassionally. Is this thinking correct?
As strange as it may sound, the "smaller micron" filter bags actually flow a lot more air than the stock 30 micron bags. There is generally a very noticably increase in performance for the whole system. It's also why the better bags don't appear to "inflate"...they are not trapping enough air to do so. If your bag inflates like the stock ones do...it's restricting air flow.

[Chris Padilla]

Chris, I think your basic concept is right, but there is one other point to remember: If you're conditioning your shop air (cold or heat), you'll be losing a LOT of it when venting outside the shop. Just something to consider... :cool:
I think this depends on how often your DC is running. If you are planing several 100 bd. ft. then I would agree but for the average hobbyist, I don't think the DC is on often enough to remove much conditioned air.

For those with DC systems, estimate how much time they are on during a typical work day. Define your work day however you want.

[John Miliunas]

I think this depends on how often your DC is running. If you are planing several 100 bd. ft. then I would agree but for the average hobbyist, I don't think the DC is on often enough to remove much conditioned air.

For those with DC systems, estimate how much time they are on during a typical work day. Define your work day however you want.

Sorry Chris. With all due respect, I couldn't disagree more! Living in the MidWest, where I *need* to condition throughout the seasons, I already experienced it the *hard way*! When I first put in my DC, I had the main unit on the "other side of the wall", in this case, the garage. It too was insulated, so I figured no big deal. Wrong answer! The very minute I turned it on, it was enough to immediately start drafting back the smoke from my woodburner! BIG time! I've since gone to LP (Hot Dawg), but the same issues remain. I ended up ducting it back into the shop and all is good. :) :cool:

[Chris Padilla]

So it is a matter of where the make-up air comes from. I didn't think it would matter too much but I have been wrong at least 1 or 2 billion times in my life.... ;)

[Tom LaRussa]

Hi all I have a dust collector that I have yet to install. I want to build a small outcropped "closet" or what have you on the exteriro of the shop (Garage) insulate it for noise and pipe into the shop. With this being done I was thinking that it does not really matter that much if I have the smaller micron bags or not, all of the dust is outside the shop. Other than, I may have to clean the closet occassionally. Is this thinking correct?

Chris
Chris,

This is a slightly tangential but related subject. To the extent it is possible, while you are building your outcropping, try to add enough space so that you can switch to a cyclone later if you want. Also, it would be a nice idea to add space for an air compressor -- another big noise maker.