I really love my Kreg Jig

[Mike Rees]

Hey gang. I got the Kreg K4 for Christmas. Now, I'm new to woodworking and general carpentry (I've never done a dovetail or a mortise/tenon - probably never will) but boy was using this jig a real charm.

I built out a miter saw stand using the Kreg. Gosh I was assembling things solid and relatively quickly. I've read on a number of sites that the Kreg Pocket Hole w/ their self tapping industrial screws are as strong or stronger then a mortise and tenon. I don't know if thats true or not, but it seems exceptionally stout to me.

This has me rethinking how to make workbench 2.0. Without all the complicated joinery that many of the plans call for, I might be able to get away with something functional, sturdy, and actually DOABLE for me.

Love this jig.

[Peter Quinn]

I've read on a number of sites that the Kreg Pocket Hole w/ their self tapping industrial screws are as strong or stronger then a mortise and tenon.

Glad you like the jig. I'm at this point a bit less enthusiastic than yourself but still like the pocket hole system for many things. I'd qualify it as "Real handy". Not sure a work bench is one of those things. I don't know what the test to decide that the pocket hole screw is stronger than the M&T, but I'd guess its a strange one at least. My independent testing and research concludes that the M&T if reasonably well made will kick the Bleep bleeping bleep bleep out of the pocket hole screw over the long haul under heavy stress in all directions, particularly in a situation like a work bench frame.

Perhaps if Kreg made the "Pocket Lag Jig" and used timberlock Fasten Masters that would be the way to go(and you could completely jig that up on a drill press), but until then, I'm leaning on the side of tradition personally and going with the M&T for heavy work.

[Bruce Wrenn]

There are two types of "pocket holers." Those that own Kreg jigs, and those who wish they owned a Kreg jig. I've had one since 1996. Bought it at the American Woodworker show in King of Prussia PA.

[Tom Hintz]

I was skeptical of the Kreg jig at first but got one because so many of my viewers asked for it. After using it I realized that I need to listen to my viewers more.

The Kreg jig may not be the answer for everything but it sure does come in handy far more than I expected. I am an official Kreg convert.

[Joe Scharle]

Mike, here's a roll-around shop cabinet that's totally Kreg joined; even the drawers. No glue and just turned 2 years old. My personal experiment.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/970/Rolling_Shop_Box.JPG

[Lewis Cobb]

Joe -
How many pocket screws went into that cabinet ? Looks like quite the testimonial, but if you are like me and tend to err on the side of caution with fasteners, about 50% of the weight of the cabinet is screws :D.
Cheers from another pocket hole convert up here in Canada,
Lewis

[Joe Scharle]

Joe -
How many pocket screws went into that cabinet ? Looks like quite the testimonial, but if you are like me and tend to err on the side of caution with fasteners, about 50% of the weight of the cabinet is screws :D.
Cheers from another pocket hole convert up here in Canada,
Lewis

Hey...spent 18 months in Goose Bay, eh!
Actually, no more screws than if I were glueing up. The drawer ends have 4 each, face frame maybe 22, upper and lower web frames have a few, but I know the total was less than 100 (box) of screws. The 2 bottom drawers hold routers and I used 1/2" MDF screwed into the drawer sides. Buy hey, it's addictive. Once I start driving screws I can't stop!!!:D

[Joe Cunningham]

I am mostly a neander (hand tool guy) but I got a Kreg K4 for doing things like dust frames and shop cabinet face frames. It works great. For most of my joinery I do hand-cut dovetails or mortise-tenons with a saw and chisel, so time-wise I saved about 80% on a recent shop project.

Joe, that is a nice cabinet you made. My next shop project is a roller similar to that--did you post up a project thread on SMC by chance?

[Lee Schierer]

LOML talked me into a Kreg jig at a wood show. I was skeptical and it sat on the shelf for a month or more when I got home. I was making a project and needed to fasten something into a cabinet that I had forgotten and was trying to figure out how to do it when I recalled the jig. I tried it it worked as advertised, the part was very secure. Each project after that saw the jig used more and more. Now every dresser project I make uses pocket hole screws somewhere.

Good jig and it makes strong joints. This entire cabinet is assembled with pocket holes in plywood.
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/craft_table2.jpg
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~us71na/craft_table4.jpg

[Dave Wagner]

I got one, and it works great, the small clamp on one with 2 holes. I use it all the time.

[Ben Martin]

I just got done using mine to build shop cabinets, thrilled about it again. BUT, I did just buy a 18V Makit Li-ion drill which made a HUGE difference, I can still feel my shoulder!

And the other thing I was amazed at was the dust collection, not even a speck of dust escaped!

[Lewis Cobb]

Hey...spent 18 months in Goose Bay, eh!
Actually, no more screws than if I were glueing up. The drawer ends have 4 each, face frame maybe 22, upper and lower web frames have a few, but I know the total was less than 100 (box) of screws. The 2 bottom drawers hold routers and I used 1/2" MDF screwed into the drawer sides. Buy hey, it's addictive. Once I start driving screws I can't stop!!!:D

Goose Bay :eek: never been there - but I am not that far from the place - I'm in the province of New Brunswick - right next to Nova Scotia.

This thread has inspired me to haul out the kreg jig on the next project I am planning. I just realized I can use it in several places in it .

[Jason White]

Yep, I recently acquired the K3 "master" kit awhile back and it has totally changed how I build things. I assembled all of my shop cabinets using pocket screws and am currently using it for a country pine piece that I'm building. Takes all the worry out of how your joinery will affect workpiece measurements.

I don't think pocket screw joints are appropriate for "period" or "heirloom" furniture pieces meant to last for generations, but certainly good enough for a few pieces in my own house!

You do have to be careful where you put the screws, though. More than once I've forgotten to drill on the side of the board that won't be visible.:o

Jason


Hey gang. I got the Kreg K4 for Christmas. Now, I'm new to woodworking and general carpentry (I've never done a dovetail or a mortise/tenon - probably never will) but boy was using this jig a real charm.

I built out a miter saw stand using the Kreg. Gosh I was assembling things solid and relatively quickly. I've read on a number of sites that the Kreg Pocket Hole w/ their self tapping industrial screws are as strong or stronger then a mortise and tenon. I don't know if thats true or not, but it seems exceptionally stout to me.

This has me rethinking how to make workbench 2.0. Without all the complicated joinery that many of the plans call for, I might be able to get away with something functional, sturdy, and actually DOABLE for me.

Love this jig.

[Mark Garanzini]

I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

[Jim Becker]

The Kreg pocket screw system changed how I build a lot of projects...and I have one of the old cast aluminum ones! It pretty much lives on the front of my miter bench (since I rarely use my miter saw) and is always ready to go. I even have an old corded drill/driver "dedicated" to it.

There will still be some projects that I'll do the M&T, cope/stick and other types of interlocking joinery, but for times when pocket screws and glue will do the job, that's what I'll reach for.

[Jason White]

Did you use fine thread or coarse thread screws?

For hardwood, they recommend fine-thread to help prevent splitting.

Jason


I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

[Lee Schierer]

I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

I've never built doors with my Kreg, but I have seen wood split when I put in a screw close to the end of a piece. I'm not sure how you could overcome that other than to C-clamp the piece with lots of pressure while the screw is being driven in and even that may not work. It takes a bit more time, but I prefer to use lap joints for all my door frames. The lap joint is very strong and pretty easy to make with a TS and tenoning jig.

[Joe Scharle]

I just started using my Kreg and of all things, started with maple cabinet doors. There are fronts to make a front panel to hide jacuzzi tub mechanics, and they to match existing vanity cabinets. Everything was fine until i started screwing them together. The rails and stiles are 2.5" wide and a couple of them cracked when i screwed them together. I am using the proper screws for 3/4 stock and set the drill to the proper depth. I am using 2 screws per joint.

Am i going to close to the edge? And do I really need 2 screws if they are not functional doors?

Any advise.

Since maple is dense, even 'soft' maple is as hard as cherry, you might try drilling a pilot hole into the receiver. I have a 6" 1/8 bit that I used when I experienced the same problem. I knew the wood was very dry and the first screw confirmed my suspicions! I setup for driving the screw, then drill thru the pocket, then drive the screw.

[Mark Garanzini]

Fine, just like it recommended. I think they were just too close to the edges. Here is another quandary.....when i set the collar on the drill bit, should the tip protrude the end of the work piece or not. Because mine didn't. I know they are self drilling, but should the little part of the bit go thru the end?

[John Lucas]

Mark,
I set the drill stop so that tip just penetrates the wood. I also suggest you not use power drill near the end of the screwing. It is easy to go too far fast. When the screw penetrates, I back out drill and hand tighten the rest of the way.

[Scott Loven]

There was a Fine Woodworking Joint test a while back that was very favorable to Pocket hole Joinery. If I recall correctly it really gets down to penetration from one piece of wood into another.
Scott

[Jay Allen]

should the tip protrude the end of the work piece or not. Because mine didn't. I know they are self drilling, but should the little part of the bit go thru the end?

No, according to Kreg's recommendations and the alignment marks that they cast into the K3 system.