To pledge or not to pledge?

[denis tuomey]

Whenever I finish a project, the last thing I do to it after the final coat of wipe-on poly is spray it and buff it down with Pledge.

Looking at an entertainment center that I am going to make, the sales clerk said to "Never use Pledge on it" just wipe it down with a damp cloth:confused:. I've never heard of that, am I doing something wrong? The Pledge sure makes it look good, what do you recommend to maintain the finish?

[Kent A Bathurst]

Denis - sorry, but Yikes....please don't take this personally....

Anything but Pledge, et al. For the wipe-on poly, damp cloth outta do the trick, but....

I'd recommend a good quality furniture wax: Antiquax, Behlen Blue Label, Liberon Bison, or Briwax (most people would tell you to only use the Briwax 2000, but I still use the original - the issue with the original is the danger that the toluene solvent will wreck your finish, if it hasn't completely cured). Each brand has its proponents and each has its detractors. Each comes in various colors, so you can use a dk brown on darker wood, neutral/natural on lighter colored wood, etc.

I recently gave an inlaid cherry desktop printer stand to a friend. Briwax over shellac everywhere but the top - top shellac rubbed out to gloss, because I didn't want the printer to go sliding around on the wax.

I know for a certainty that she has a can of Pledge in the pantry. I told her "If you ever get the urge to clean it, just wipe it with a lightly dampen rag and buff with a dry cloth. If you EVER get the urge to use Pledge, please take the printer stand and toss it in the fireplace first - my heart couldn't take it."

[glenn bradley]

From another forum (the guy's math is a little loose but workable); the general breakdown of Pledge:

1. Naphtha, petroleum, light alkylate 5%-10% or (isoparaffinic hydrocarbon solvent)
2. Polydimethylsiloxanes (Silicon oil) 5%-10%
3. Water 70%-85%
4. Butane1% -5%
5. Isobutane1% - 5%

So, I'm thinking not so good for your topcoat in the long run(?).

[Richard Chan]

I Pledge my Ethen Alan bedroom set and after a few week the finish was soft. Soft enough to scrap off with my finger nails. So my 2 cents worth advise is no pledge.

[Scott Holmes]

The only thing in Pledge that makes the furniture shine is the oil left on the surface.

Mineral oil would do the same thing and would last longer; but it never dries.

Skip the Pledge or any canned furniture polish.

[denis tuomey]

WOW! Learned something new, never realized that, thanks to all for your input.

[Kent A Bathurst]

... or any canned furniture polish.

?? not sure I understand this. No Liberon or Briwax, etc.? They come in cans.

[Scott Holmes]

I was talking about aerosol cans... sorry for the confusion.

[Kent A Bathurst]

I was talking about aerosol cans... sorry for the confusion.


OK - I'll recall Vinny + Vito :D

[glenn bradley]

OK - I'll recall Vinny + Vito :D

:D:D:D That one got me :D:D:D

[Howard Acheson]

You have already been rightly warned against using Pledge on your furniture projects. Let me expand that to a prohibition agains any "supermarket" dusting or polishing spray or liquid. Most of these products contain sillicone which is an oil that is left on the surface of the wood. This oil will attract and collect dust causing you to have to re-"polish" periodically. But, most important, sillicone will make it very difficult to ever re-finish your item. Almost all finishes will "fish eye" or not lay down smoothly. Sillicone is very difficult to totally remove.

Was too, is not necessary. It will collect dust and oxidize fairly quickly decreasing the appearance of the item. You will then have to re-wax periodically to restore the appearance. Particularly avoid Original Briwax which contain toluene which will destroy finishes less than a year old. It's a wax intended for restoring old furniture. The toluene is an excellent cleaner of old gunk and dirt but is too aggressive for new finishes. Briwax makes a wax called Briwax 2000 which uses mineral spirits as its solvent just as other waxes use. That product is OK to use.

As suggested, just use a lightly water dampened rag to wipe off any dust. Then a quick buffing with a dry rag will keep your items looking good for years.

[Rob Hermann]

Wow, I just learned a whole bunch. I had no idea that stuff is bad for finished wood. Thanks. Not to really change the subject but along the lines of cleaning furniture/wood stuff. Is Murphys Oil Soap any better?