What is Your Favorite Table Top Finish?

[Tony Bilello]

Oy Vey! So many choices.
I am currently using Pre-Cat lacquer for table tops. I am thinking of going to Conversion Varnish or Post-Cat Lacquer for a more durable finish. I have friends also in the business suggesting I go backwards and go back to Nitrocellulose lacquer.
I have 2 suppliers telling me to stick with the Pre-cat, one telling me to go Conversion Varnish and one suggesting I go back to Nitrocellulose. Each choice has it's own merits.
The only arguments in favor of Nitrocellulose is that it is easily repaired and very user friendly. My thoughts are that I would rather use a more durable finish and not concern myself about future repairs.
What is your favorite table top finish and why?
Thanks in advance

[Allan Froehlich]

Personally, I think that System Three mirror coat looks pretty cool, but I never tried it.

I have had very good experiences with General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. After a layer of sealer, it becomes user friendly.

I have had mixed results with PPG automotive clear. When it works, it yields an amazing gloss finish that is exremely durable. Otherwise, it is very sensitive to surface contamination.

[Scott Holmes]

For durability I like phenolic resin varnish on tables Waterlox or Behlen's Rock Hard.... depending on the wood. Phenolic resin varnishes are a bit amber. For a little to no color; and little to no yellowing, I use an alkyd resin varnish Pratt& Lambert #38 is my favorite.

Much more durable than NC lacquer; not as durable as the high end conversion varnishes. I'm not sure about the NEW DIY conversion varnishes that are starting to show up. I suspect much of that is marketing hype.

In my book most water-borne wont cut it.

Pre and post lacquer have about the same durablity as the quality varnishes.

[D.McDonnel "Mac"]

Spray equipment and the skill to use it opens up a lot of options. Even though I have the spray equipment I still fall back to varnish on most projects. About two years ago I bought some very good brushes from Tools for Working Wood. They made brushing on varnish almost a pleasure! I have been using Pratt & Lambert #38 for the last couple of years for everything except table tops where I use something harder like the phenolic rosin varnishes mentioned above. Another option would be ... gasp ... polyurethane varnish. Not my first choice but good for tabletops and high wear areas.

An unfortunate side note: I only had one place I could find P&L #38 locally and I just found out today that they are out of business. Spent hours trying to find it somewhere else locally to no avail. I did find an Olympic brand Alkyd varnish that I will try out on some wood trim tomorrow.

[Jim Becker]

I pretty much stick with Target Coatings USL waterborne, which is now EM6000. I do not have the ability to safely spray solvent based lacquers and have been very, very happy with the water borne products from Target. That said, I sometimes just use shellac. It's also easily repairable and looks grand.

[Scott Holmes]

EM6000 would be an exception to my most water-borne...comment

[Scott Holmes]

Amazing what a good bruch can do, isn't it?

My favorite varnish brush is a 2" wide ox-hair brush ($40) that's seen about 3 years of use... the first 10 times you use them they loose hair; then they're an incredible brush; if you use them and take care of them properly...

TIP: Pre condition your brush not the wood... before using a brush in varnish; dip the brush in MS so it's full of MS in the ferrule, then varnish can't get up in the ferrule. When it's time to clean it; it will clean much easier. I then use a citrus cleaner to cut the MS; then soap and water to finish cleaning. Shake and spin it dry and wrap in a paper towel hold the shape until completely dry (overnight).

[Steve Jenkins]

I use Valspar conversion varnish. It is water clear and doesn't yellow over time. sands great and lays down really nice. I use it for pretty much everything.

[Glen Butler]

Amazing what a good bruch can do, isn't it?

My favorite varnish brush is a 2" wide ox-hair brush ($40) that's seen about 3 years of use... the first 10 times you use them they loose hair; then they're an incredible brush; if you use them and take care of them properly...

TIP: Pre condition your brush not the wood... before using a brush in varnish; dip the brush in MS so it's full of MS in the ferrule, then varnish can't get up in the ferrule. When it's time to clean it; it will clean much easier. I then use a citrus cleaner to cut the MS; then soap and water to finish cleaning. Shake and spin it dry and wrap in a paper towel hold the shape until completely dry (overnight).


What is MS?

[Tony Bilello]

What is MS?

Mineral Spirits



BTW to everyone, thanks for the suggestions.

[Prashun Patel]

I venture that lacquer of any variety is a production fave bkz it sprays on like a champ.

I'd bet in a durability challenge, Waterlox and Behlen's would beat most lacquers.

Personally, I like Waterlox; I think it has excellent durability and clarity. I'm no pro, though, so don't go by me.

But on any kind of table where the feel and life of the wood is desirable - and where there's no artificial colorant to burn thru, I like oil/varnish soaked and wiped off to zero build. Easy to "damage" or I say "antique", but easy to fix.