Library Chair & Steps in Process

[Brian Kent]

This is my second chair that folds into steps.

The first was quarter sawn white oak. This one is maple. The only problem with the first was that it was too short, so I went to Kinkos and had the blueprint plans enlarged by 10%. This one is just right, with a seat about 17.5 inches high. I built a couple of the joints a little stronger than the plans.

My next question is the finish. Blond shellac? Amber shellac? Wipe on poly?
I do not want spray lacquer or glossy poly with their plastic shiny look.

It is just shaped for now. I'll sand to 220 or 320 before applying finish.
The steel screws will all be replaced by brass screws over brass decorative washers.
The hinges are also brass.

If I go with shellac, should I begin with BLO and de-waxed shellac, followed by the regular 2# cut of blond or amber?

Thanks for looking.

Brian


The 1st & 2nd picture is in its chair configuration. The 3rd & 4th are with the top folded over into the stair position. Same piece of furniture.

[Jacob Mac]

What an interesting design. I really like the chair. BLO plus shellac would help make the maple look "warmer" and pop the grain.

[Adam Strong]

Looks great! Where did you get the plans you are using? I have been wanting to build a few of these myself.

[Brian Kent]

http://www.woodcraftplans.com//osc/library-step-stool-plans-p-600.html


The full-size plans are very useful. I recommend testing a wooden chair that fits you and measure the height of the seat. Kinko's increased the plan size by 10% for $9 plus tax. Before that the chair was only used as a chair by the 2 shortest women at church.

Brian

[Mike Henderson]

That's a nice looking library/step stool chair. Many of the ones you see are pretty plain - almost primitive. You did a good job building it, Brian. Couple of questions, please:

1. What's the height of the seat in the front (from the floor) on your modified plans? If I recall, a standard height for an adult is about 17".

2. Is there anything that keeps the chair back in position when you're using it as a chair? Or if someone pushes the back forward will it move? Seems like it would be nice to have the back lock some way so that if someone grabs the back to move the chair it can be moved like a chair and not pivot on the hinges.

The only thing I don't like is the pieces of wood on the side of the bottom of the rear legs (or the top step when it's open). Is that required for strength?

I'll have to make one of these one day.

Mike

[Brian Kent]

Mike

1. The "bottom line", I mean the "seat height" is just under 18". The original was just over 16".

2. I thought about adding a hook to secure it, but did not. I have not noticed the problem and just now found it generally slides forward if pushed, and fold over if lifted.

3. Good eye. That little aded piece is an answer to the eternal question, "How can I rescue this project even though the back legs have a grain direction issue causing them to break near the feet 3 times during construction." I was careful for the grain direction for the length of the back piece but not for the end:o

Brian

[Mike Henderson]

Mike
3. Good eye. That little aded piece is an answer to the eternal question, "How can I rescue this project even though the back legs have a grain direction issue causing them to break near the feet 3 times during construction." I was careful for the grain direction for the length of the back piece but not for the end:o

Brian
As an alternative (for next time) maybe you can put in a spline. Use a slot cutter to cut a slot into the end of the wood, then insert your spline. Do that before you cut the final shape.

The spline will be visible, of course, but it might not be as obvious as the piece on the side.

Just a suggestion.

Mike

[Brian Kent]

I didn't notice he problem until the whole side was assembled, then I just keep on multiplying the problem. The spline would have worked and I will pay more attention in the future, not just to the general flow of the grain but to the grain near the ends.

Also, if you respond to 4 more posts tonight you'll be at 4,000 posts!:rolleyes:

[John Keeton]

Brian, I like the design, though I do agree on the structural piece. Personally, I like the amber look that maple gets with BLO, and it will darken as it ages. Some prefer to keep it lighter. I would do BLO, and clear/blond shellac followed by the Arm-R-Seal.

[Brian Kent]

John,

Do I need de-waxed shellac between BLO and clear shellac?

Brian

[John Keeton]

Brian, the Zinsser's "clear" is dewaxed, but the Amber is not - per my understanding. So, if you use the clear, that leaves you open for whatever top coat you choose, or you could finish with shellac.

[Sam Layton]

Brian, your chair/step stool is looking good. That could come in handy in stead of standing on a chair. I'm with John on the Arm-R-Seal.

Sam

[Brian Kent]

Sam, the only way I can reach the heater / AC vents in the office is by standing on the two arms of a chair. This might be safer.

I have bowed to your collective wisdom :rolleyes: and removed the offensive looking braces. The cracked pieces have long been securely glued and the cross bar with dowels and glue effectively braces these pieces.

There is a remaining issue of the crack repair marks, which I don't know how to cover up, except they will probably show less obviously with a warmer shellac than with clear.

Oh yes, the BLO has been applied.

Brian

[John Keeton]

Brian, what about a 1/4" thick decorative gusset covering both pieces? Perhaps with a simple shape to it, but enough to hide the cracks. You could apply inside and outside of the joints on both sides - maybe with a chamfered edge to make it appear more of a decorative enhancement?

[Brian Kent]

John,

I would certainly think that is an excellent idea if I knew what a gusset is. Is it anything like a decorative corsette?

Brian

[Paul Ryan]

Brian,

Nice looking chair. I caught one of your posts a few years ago about the chair and made my own. It was a christmas present for my mother. I really didn't think the seat hight was that big of a problem. I compared it to her dinning room chairs and it is only 1/2" lower. I finished mine with danish oil and wax. That isn't a ton of protection but I loved the way it turned out. I think even though the legs on yours are cracked still look better exposed compared to the patch pieces that were put over them.
Did you drill your dowls oversized? I had a heck of a time with my steps splitting when the dowles were pounded in.

Here are the pictures of my chair. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=126985

[Brian Kent]

Paul, thank you for posting that link to your chair. Very nice. As I noted on your post, on the first chair my drill bit was accidentally oversized. On this one I corrected a mis-measurement by adding additional strips. That provided cross-grain support for the screws and glue.

[John Keeton]

Brian, a gusset is a term that used to be used for the scabbed on pieces that were used to build trusses. They use metal plates now. So, just mill some 1/4" thick stock, wide enough to cover the area, give it an interesting shape to compliment the lines of the piece, chamfer the edges a bit - and, glue and pin it in place. I would span both pieces that come together at that joint to make it look right and give it strength.

[Brian Kent]

OK, now I got it. Only that is what I just removed, except it was 3/8" thick and not exactly ornamental. I think I'll keep going and see how obvious the crack-fillers are after some shellac.

[John Keeton]

Brian, just looked at the pic again - sorry, you are right!! However, I think it was the square, boxy look of the gusset that made it stand out. Either way you go, it still makes a very nice project.

[Paul Saffold]

I like your design better than the one I made several years ago with ash. Mine didn't have curved legs/back thus is not too comfortable to sit in. However it is a favorite perch for our cat and it makes for a good plant stand.

Paul