L-N 140 or 60 1/2?

[Conrad Fiore]

For general tenon trimming and panel raising, which L-N would you suggest, the 140 skew block or the 60 1/2 block?

[Richard Wolf]

I really like the skew plane, but they both work great.

Richard

[Jeff Willard]

For panel raising, a skew would be superior. If I saw a lot of that in the future, I'd look more to a skew rabbet. Lee Valley makes a pair of them. A 60 1/2 won't work well at all for fielded raised panels. Now that I think about it, it wouldn't work well for tenons, either.

For trimming tenons, I'd use a shoulder plane. Harry has his own opinions on this, and I can't say He's wrong, but I have a shoulder plane. I'm sure He'll chime in.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I've raised a number of panels with my 140. The skew makes it much, much easier than the 60-1/2. If I have any clean-up to do, I use a LN 102.

However, if you're just looking for a block plane, without panel raising, I would opt for the 60-1/2 (but don't rule out the LN 102 or the LV offerings).

[Matt Edwards]

https://ssl.wowpages.com/finetoolj/LN/images/LN601_2R.jpg


I've been contemplating one of these for sometime now, it really looks as tho it could be very handy in many roles.

Matt

[Chuck Tringo]

The skew block is what I have...I went through the same process that you are now and arrived at the skew block for a number of reasons....
1. Both lack adjustable mouth (same)
2. 140 comes in Bronze (which I got), one less thing i have to worry about rusting (like now when all my tools are in damp basement storage for a year while I'm in Iraq ~ all except the new ones I am buying and having shipped out here to hide from SWMBO:D) (+ for 140)
3. 140 has a fence, albeit a small single attachment point one (+ for 140)
4. 60 1/2R cheaper (+ for 60 1/2R)
5. 60 1/2R rabbets both sides, 140 only on one side (+ for 60 1/2R to some people, to me, not so much)
umm, not sure what it adds up to but the plusses for the 140 far outweighed the plusses for the 60 1/2R...and I got it wicked cheap off of fleabay :)

[Jim Koepke]

For general tenon trimming and panel raising, which L-N would you suggest, the 140 skew block or the 60 1/2 block?

Unless you mean the 60-1/2R, there is no comparison between these.

I have a 140 that is still waiting for the blade to be sharpened when some of those round tuits come my way.

The skewed blade is a big plus. That only one side can do the rabbet is a minus.

My suggestion would be to look for an old skew rabbet woody. They are common and cheap, especially along the eastern side of the country. Mine was bought with the idea of getting a few and converting them into panel raisers. Still waiting for the round tuits. Besides, it works so well the way it is, it is a shame to do anything to it other than put it to work.

jim

[harry strasil]

You can show a WWer a better easier way, but you can't force him to use it. I have a shoulder plane somewhere under the cobwebs.

[lowell holmes]

Now Harry,

That just ain't so. I have the 140 and the 60 1/2R planes. Since you posted the piece about your tenon router, I use my 71 1/2 to work tenons. As soon as I get to it, I will make a tenon router similar to your design. Some of us do change our ways.
I also have the LV medium shoulder plane.:)

[harry strasil]

I have a stanley 60 1/2, and 2 140's a stanley and a miller falls, I had to look up which shoulder plane I have, its an old stanley 90, never used it on a shoulder yet, I prefer to saw the shoulders, and congrates. and Merry Christmas.

My Texas daughter wanted a picture to show her 3rd grade class of my driveway this morning.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v81/irnsrgn/other/snow.jpg

and another 8" or so is on its way. LOL

[lowell holmes]

When I came back from my daughter's house last evening, I thought Nebraska had come to visit. The wind was gusting to 20-30 mph and it was in the low 40's. The wind chill factor was brittle. It's sunshing bright today though. I read that they had snow in Dallas yesterday.

[harry strasil]

Wow 40's a real heat wave, -2 winchill now with 30 mph and snow with mist.

[paul cottingham]

What about the lee valley skew rabbit plane?
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=59999&cat=1,41182,41192&ap=1

[Don Dorn]

I'm going against the grain here. For raising panels, I found the Veritas skew didn't work very well - it's great in theory but for some unknown reason, the point of the skew seems to creep just enough to make a mess of your line. Believe it or not - the plane that kept bailing me out of trouble was the LN 60 1/2. It seemed to just know what I needed to do to fix facets on the bevel or repair the line from the skew.

While I love my LV planes - that was one I sent back and have found a Record 778 which I know works well. I am thinking about the LN #10. It's expensive, but it would certainly make short work of taking down a bevel to to the prescribed line.

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Conrad

For raised panels the challenge is (1) planing a smooth cross grain surface, and (2) planing against the top edge of the panel.

Note that the idea plane for a cross grain cut - a low cutting angle - can do damage when running with the grain. The latter may tear out unless you use a common- or better cutting angle. The lowest cutting angle for cross grain is best served by a skew blade. Planes such as the #140-type skew block planes (LN make them for left and right. Veritas have informed us that they are coming out with a set as well. Stanley only made theirs for the right-handed). The other plane I really like here is the Veritas skew rabbet set (you can get away with one side, but both makes life easier). I have used all these planes for raised panels.

Secondly, you can get away without a skew blade for cross grain if the cutting angle is very low. You can even get away without a rabbet-type plane (i.e. blade up to the side of the body). Even an ordinary low angle block plane, such as a #60 1/2, can work just fine ... but you still need to clean up the side edge, and then you need a shoulder plane to do this. Much slower work, but a can do.

For tenons I agree with Harry (and have posted a tutorial on my website detailing this) that a router plane is the better tool. Oh Harry ... you do not have a shoulder plane!! You have a bullnose plane. There is no way this plane is ever going to be suitable for shoulders .... rabbets yes, shoulders no.

Further, a "shoulder plane" gets its name from tenon "shoulders". I'm sure that it would be called a "cheek plane" if used on the cheeks! :) Use the router plane here, alternately, use a low angle rabbet block plane, such as the #140 or #60 1/2R.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Conrad Fiore]

Thank you all for your opinions. I think because I am looking for an edging type plane that can be used as an all around tool and be used bi-directionally, I think that the 60 1/2 rabbet is the way to go for me. Although the 140 skew may give better performance cross grain, that plane cannot be used planing back towards oneself because of the skew angle and I am just not in the market to purchase both left and right hand versions at this time.
Thanks,
Conrad