Router Table Router... Which Ones?

[Scott Hildenbrand]

So for now I've got my Milwaukee 5615-24 that I got on sale (though NOT as cheap as it has been.. Darnit!) in my router table extension and I LOVE it..

But.. I'm wondering though.. I'd like to keep it as a dedicated hand router and put something with more oomph into the table..

WHAT routers would you suggest for this, without breaking the bank?

Also, a Q comes to mind.. Variable speed.. Is it really that useful? If so, what for?

[Randal Stevenson]

Variable speed, is useful, although if the router doesn't have it, and isn't soft start (electronic issues), you can use a speed switch to slow it down. The larger bits, need to spin slower (panel raising bits and such).

You are going to get all kinds of responses on which router for the table (just do a search on that subject). The real big question is what projects are you going to do, and what have you done? Light stuff, you might just want another one of what your using (same model, etc), or one found as a bargain (deals and discount forum, etc). Heavy duty, you might want the not inexpensive (long term investment) P/C or Milwaukee that people use.

[michael flay]

Milwaukee 5625, I have this in my table and it is all you will ever need.

[glenn bradley]

Go to the store and compare the routers there to your Milwaukee, then get a 5625. Seriously, there are some good routers out there. I have just become enamored with the heavy construction and quality of the Mils in my collection. My other routers have pretty much had the day off for the last couple years.

Raw power not withstanding, decision points might include:



Variable speed -


Many larger bits are meant for the table and also meant for lower speeds.

Height adjustment -


Above the table or below, lift or not; this function should be smooth and convenient, repeatable and reliable.

Bit changes -


You already know how easily the Mil motor drops out of the body with a press of the latch. Routers that twist out or require keys or pins to be aligned are a pain if you remove the motor for bit changes. Motors in lifts and some stock routers allow above the table bit changes so this becomes moot.

Have fun!

[Wayne Cannon]

Factors that matter to me that are not commonly considered include:


A wide opening in the base so large radius bits can be lowered slightly below the top. This also provides space for offset collet wrenches for bit changes without cranking the bit up and down all the time.
The ability to extend the collet significantly beyond the base so you can make cuts in work riding on a sled (e.g., a coping sled) without lifting the bit high in the collet or using a bit extension -- a 3/8" router plate + 1/2" sled requires the collet to extend significantly beyond the router base.

Some routers have built in through-the-base height adjustments, some require router lifts for easy adjustment, and some have shapes that router lifts can't utilize.

My favorite table router is the Porter-Cable 7518 which has a very large base opening and whose collet extends well beyond the base, but has no through-the-base adjustment (requiring a router lift for topside adjustment).

The 3-1/4 HP Triton also works well. It has neither through-the-base adjustment (the 2-1/4 HP Triton does) nor a shape that can be accommodated by router lifts. It does have an easily-removable spring and a nice two-speed adjustment reachable under the table. It's dust collection works great. It's relatively small base opening is unobstructed, so I was able to rout the aluminum open to a larger diameter.

[scott spencer]

Scott - The MW5625 is a beast in the table....I've seen it on sale in as low as $200, but it's rare. It does have above table height adjust, but that's it for convenience features.

My Freud FT1700 is loaded with good above table features. It's 13 amps, which is bigger than the MW5615, but doesn't have the power of a 15 amp. The FT3000 has the same features in a 15 amp.

For bargain 15 amp routers with variable speed, the Hitachi M12V2 and Freud FT2000/FT2200 are often on sale < $150. These are the two with the smaller throat openings, though some mods can be made to widen them...there are all work arounds if you leave the openings "as is".

[Gene Howe]

IIRC I paid about $200 for my PC7518 motor. Soft start, VS, plenty of power. It's in a Jessem lift. I don't lift it out of the table often!:D The whole setup probably weighs over 20 lb.s.

[Michael Drew]

IIRC I paid about $200 for my PC7518 motor. Soft start, VS, plenty of power. It's in a Jessem lift. I don't lift it out of the table often!:D The whole setup probably weighs over 20 lb.s.

Where'd you find the motor for that price? I can't find it anywhere for less that 350 and I might as well buy the whole router at that price.

[Ray Newman]

I have an older PC 7518 for a dedicated router table unit.


Since I have a Wood Peck router lift, the weight and height adjustments are of no concern. I use an inspection mirror to change the speed settings. The “soft start” is a very nice feature.

The Ol' 7518 has never failed me and keeps on tickin'! At the end of the day, I do blow out the 'innards' with compressed air and periodically check the brushes for wear. IMO, and as an old time millwright would say: a bit of preventative maintenance goes a long way....


The unit was a “factory reconditioned” with the same warrantee as a new unit, but at a substantial savings.


As an aside, I also purchased a Grizzly magnetic starter that the router plugs into. The area where I live has power outages, even brief outages. During an outage, I was removing the work from contact with the bit as the power came back on. Good thing that I had a substantial grip on the work! Right then and there I decided that I needed a magnetic starter.

If you don’t want to buy a magnetic starter, Lee Valley has a GFCI that also will cut off power during a power outage.
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=53253&cat=1,240,41065&ap=1