Outfeed table finish?

[Tony Shea]

I have finally decided to make myself an outfeed table for my table saw. I have everything cut and prepared to put together other than the decision for a finish to put on it. I have already made my top and went with birch A1 grade plywood. Just some nice stuff I had by itself off in the corner and decided to use it for this. Due to the quality of the plywood I have no intentions of covering it up with some laminate of any sort for the slickness. Therefore I need to come up with a finish to apply to a plywood top to produce a durable, water-resistant, and slick top that is finely sanded. What are some suggestions to achieve this goal? Finishing is where I really lack in knowledge in woodworking, and unfortunatly is one of the most important steps.

[David Prince]

How about a gym floor type finish with hardwood flooring polyurethane. It will be very durable. Don't put it on too thick, though.

[Mike Cruz]

You will get a million answers to this question. Everybody has their favorite.

Mine, for something like this? You can't get a stronger more durable finish that Poly. Many don't like it for it properties. But for durability, you can't beat it. Poly is a mechanical bond type finsish. Which means that it adheres to the previous layer by gripping to it (as opposed to melting into the previous layer like laquer), so you need to give it a light sanding between coats. When/if you ever need to recoat your outfeed table, just give it a light sanding and reapply. But I can tell you one thing, your outfeed table will take years of use before you would need to do that.

[Tony Shea]

I actually was going to originally go with trusty old poly. It's really the only finish I have much experience with but am not a huge fan of it. I do like the durability of it though. What about a coat of wax on top of the poly to slick it up even more. Has anyone waxed poly before?

[glenn bradley]

Like Mike says; we all have our favorite. My sleds, other jigs that slide and my outfeed top are all 4-6 coats of dewaxed shellac sanded to 400 between coats. I add coats till its nice-n-smooth and then paste wax it. I have been running the sleds several times a week for years (BB ply) and have re-waxed a couple times. Still slick and no wear through.

[Michael Wetzel]

Many don't like it for it properties. But for durability, you can't beat it. Poly is a mechanical bond type finsish. Which means that it adheres to the previous layer by gripping to it (as opposed to melting into the previous layer like laquer), so you need to give it a light sanding between coats.

Not in all cases. Some of the pro gym floor poly I've used allows for a chemical bond as long as the 2nd coat is within 24hours. If you miss the 24 hour period you need to sand it in order to make a mechanical bond. But at over $250 for 5gal I doubt anyone here will buy any :D

[Paul Ryan]

Tony,

I just built and folding out feed table this summer and went through the same delema you are. I decided on the poly because of its durability, glue resistance, and resistance to basically everything else. I put 3 coats on and counldn't be happier. Mine is really smooth and after I waxed it I decided not to again. It almost got to slipery with the wax on it. I couldn't be happier though. If you dont do a laminate, poly is the way to go if you ask me.

[Jason Hanko]

I actually was going to originally go with trusty old poly. It's really the only finish I have much experience with but am not a huge fan of it. I do like the durability of it though. What about a coat of wax on top of the poly to slick it up even more. Has anyone waxed poly before?
Yup - my outfeed table is paste wax over poly. Nice-n-slick.

[Dave Cav]

I usually use either Deft or shellac, depending on what's on hand, for shop fixtures and the like. It dries fast, is reasonably durable, and after being rubbed out with 0000 steel wool and wax, is plenty slick.

[Jason White]

3 or 4 coats of wipe-on poly.



I have finally decided to make myself an outfeed table for my table saw. I have everything cut and prepared to put together other than the decision for a finish to put on it. I have already made my top and went with birch A1 grade plywood. Just some nice stuff I had by itself off in the corner and decided to use it for this. Due to the quality of the plywood I have no intentions of covering it up with some laminate of any sort for the slickness. Therefore I need to come up with a finish to apply to a plywood top to produce a durable, water-resistant, and slick top that is finely sanded. What are some suggestions to achieve this goal? Finishing is where I really lack in knowledge in woodworking, and unfortunatly is one of the most important steps.

[Von Bickley]

My outfeed table has many coats of poly. When it gets messed up, here comes another coat of poly.

[ken gibbs]

My outfeed table has many coats of poly. When it gets messed up, here comes another coat of poly.
I used a good grade of laminate. Purchased a partial sheet of laminate form one our our local cabinet shops that sells partial sheets of scrap at very reasonable prices. When I wax the steel top of my Unisaw, I wax the outfeed table. Never has been a problem, and very slick.

[Larry Fox]

Mine is finished with sawdust, veneer glue smears and whatever finish / solvents I happen to have spilled on it and it has held up great so far. I use mostly shellac for shop made things and it has worked out well so far.

I use mine for a lot more than just an outfeed table so I actually don't want it to be overly slick though.

[Tony Shea]

Thanks for all the replies and opinions. I might go ahead and try some shellac. What better time to try out new finshes for shop furniture? Might as well try something new.

[Howard Acheson]

Let my just warn you that there is no clear finish you can apply that will not show scratches very quickly.

[Tony Shea]

Yeah, I kind of anticipated that scratches will be inevitable no matter what I choose for a finish. But once scratches become unbearable I can always recoat the table. That's just part of shop furniture though.

[Jim Dunn]

My outfeed table has many coats of poly. When it gets messed up, here comes another coat of poly.

This is not a shop. It's an operating room for woodworkers:eek:

My outfeed table has deft on it. I also use it as an extra work surface and glue up area so I felt it needed a good finish to keep the glue sticking to a minimum.

[Karl Brogger]

Melamine gets dinged up/ugly, replace it. Cheap, slippery.

Polished concrete would be kinda cool. An absolute bitch to move though.