Converting BS to metal cutting?

[Perry Holbrook]

I need a better saw for cutting metal. I've got a Jet horz/vert saw now, but it is really limited in the vertical position (narrow throat, light weight table, etc) only uses 1/2" blades, and breaks blades too often due to the twist in the blade. I've modified it to take the twist out of the blade, but still not happy.

Anyway, the new metal cutting band saws(Wilton, Delta, etc) are in the $1200 to $1400 range, more than I can justify. So I am looking at converting a wood cutting saw. Grizzly has a 14" 2 speed saw for $400 that runs at 1500 fpm at low speed. If I take the motor off and replace it with a gear reduced ($79-$99 from Surplus Center) and install step pulleys on the motor and reducer ($30) I should be able to deliver the blade speed range I need.

So for less than half price I should have a new metal cutting saw equal to the Wilton, unless I'm missing something.

Any comments.

Perry

[Myk Rian]

Sounds like a plan to me.

[Lee Schierer]

Usually metal cutting saws have all metal wheels, no tires. I think there also may be a relief for the teeth machined into the wheels, but I can't recall from memory. The metal chips are going to work havoc on the tires of a wood cutting saw.

[Perry Holbrook]

Usually metal cutting saws have all metal wheels, no tires. I think there also may be a relief for the teeth machined into the wheels, but I can't recall from memory. The metal chips are going to work havoc on the tires of a wood cutting saw.

Thanks Lee, hadn't considered that. Would you happen to know how they handle that with the saws that have a variable speed drive system that will work for wood and steel?

Perry

[Lee Schierer]

I have no experience with dual use saws so I can't say. I just recall the metal saws we had at work ran much slower and didn't have tires.

[Carroll Courtney]

We also have a metal cutting BS at work that does not have tires,but I think that only applys to the horizontal ones.I have a Powermatic Vert.(PM143)that has tires and able to change speeds.Its only purpose is for cutting metal,but you could cut wood by just changing blades if you don't mine metal shavings mix with your wood.----Carroll

[bob hertle]

DoAll made verticals both ways--tapered flanged wheels, and conventional crowned rubber tired wheels. The 20" we had at work, 3hp, 50-5000 sfpm, had rubber tired wheels with a fair amount of crown. I think the rubber tired wheels are more common. Lot's of machine shops have cut lots of metal on these rubber tired machines.

Your problem with the conversion you describe, is that your final drive will slip. V-belts are not designed or intended to transmit torque at low speed. They are designed to transmit horsepower at relatively high belt speeds. Go to the drive charts for A-section or 4L, even B-section or 5L, in the Browning catalog. You need the step pulleys ahead of the gearbox, and this will give you the high torque capability on the final drive reduction. Options here would be a 3-jawed coupling, or roller chain and sprockets between the gearbox and the saw drive shaft.

Many years ago, I did exactly what you describe, and yeah, it worked--sorta. OK for cutting sheet metal with fine toothed blades, but nothing of substance without slipping the belt.

Regards
Bob

[Dick Brown]

One BIG difference is wood band saws are set up to cut max length of what ever size saw you have from the blade to the back casting so unless you twist the blade to run 1/4 turn from the normal wood cutting configuration, you will be limited to a 90 degree cut of that length. (14", 16", ???) Most metal saws are built to crosscut unlimited length.

[Perry Holbrook]

Bob, I had planned to put the step pulleys on the motor and input shaft of the gear reducer. Thanks for the info on the low speed belt slippage, I'll check out chain sprockets for the output shaft and saw shaft.

Dick, I have a chop saw for cutting stock to length. This saw will be mainly used to cut copper sheet stock in small pieces.

Thanks .

Perry

[Rick Lizek]

Bob, I had planned to put the step pulleys on the motor and input shaft of the gear reducer. Thanks for the info on the low speed belt slippage, I'll check out chain sprockets for the output shaft and saw shaft.

Dick, I have a chop saw for cutting stock to length. This saw will be mainly used to cut copper sheet stock in small pieces.

Thanks .

Perry

Get a shear...
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=613&PARTPG=INLMK3&PMITEM=130-5700
If just cutting straight put a negative hook non-ferrous blade on your table saw, chop saw or radial arm saw. It's a standard blade already on most radial arm or chop saws. For steel you put on a Morse Metal Devil on the same saws and you can do the same thing on ferrous. I cut steel and cast iron all the time. Even have a blade to cut with my Makita 6-1/2 cordless circle saw. Abrasive saws are old hat unless cutting HSS tooling. http://www.evolutionpowertools.co.uk/us/evolution_build.html
Actually you can cut steel, aluminum and wood with this saw.

[Perry Holbrook]

Rick, I've got a shear for straight cuts and a throatless shear for some curved cuts and a chop saw. I need the band saw with a narrow blade for cutting out small pieces out of copper sheets about 20"x20".

Perry

[Rick Lizek]

Rick, I've got a shear for straight cuts and a throatless shear for some curved cuts and a chop saw. I need the band saw with a narrow blade for cutting out small pieces out of copper sheets about 20"x20".

Perry

A standard wood cutting bandsaw will cut copper fine. Steel will need the reduced speed. Metal/wood bandsaws have rubber tires. Three phase motors with a VFD and step pulleys or a jackshaft to get the lower speed for steel is another option. Also a scroll saw will do a nice job for really small curves. I know a marquetry expert who mixes brass with wood in his work using a scroll saw. It's called Boulle... top left pic http://www.silaskopf.com/cabinet2.html
You can also rout non-ferrous metal easily.