Circular / Compass Planes

[Michael Faurot]

I've become curious about mechanical metal circular / compass planes, such as the Stanley No. 113. I've not seen any discussions about these planes here, so I'm hoping there are some folks around that regularly use these planes that can answer some questions.

My experience with doing anything involving curves or circles typically involves a change in grain such that at some point I'm dealing with end grain. Assuming a properly honed blade and the plane is set-up properly, how well do these planes actually deal with end grain?

Is the ability to deal with end grain, with a compass plane, a product of certain models working better than others?

I've never used a compass plane, but I have used some molding planes. I'm wondering if compass planes and molding planes share a common trait of working best with well behaved straight grained species?

Is there a general consensus on which model is the best to have, if you're only going to have one? Or to put it another way, which model would be the best one to get first? I'm not going to be building any ships, boats or arks, but I can imagine one being useful for working a curve into a table apron or a round top for a night stand.

From the various pictures I've seen, most images show a compass plane configured for working the inside curve of a circle. Less often do I find pictures showing a compass plane in a configuration for working the outside curve of a a circle. Are most of these planes able to do both tasks equally well?

Using Christopher Schwarz' philosophy of "Coarse, Medium and Fine", where would a compass plane fit into this?

[Sandy Stanford]

I've become curious about mechanical metal circular / compass planes, such as the Stanley No. 113. I've not seen any discussions about these planes here, so I'm hoping there are some folks around that regularly use these planes that can answer some questions.

My experience with doing anything involving curves or circles typically involves a change in grain such that at some point I'm dealing with end grain. Assuming a properly honed blade and the plane is set-up properly, how well do these planes actually deal with end grain?

Is the ability to deal with end grain, with a compass plane, a product of certain models working better than others?

I've never used a compass plane, but I have used some molding planes. I'm wondering if compass planes and molding planes share a common trait of working best with well behaved straight grained species?

Is there a general consensus on which model is the best to have, if you're only going to have one? Or to put it another way, which model would be the best one to get first? I'm not going to be building any ships, boats or arks, but I can imagine one being useful for working a curve into a table apron or a round top for a night stand.

From the various pictures I've seen, most images show a compass plane configured for working the inside curve of a circle. Less often do I find pictures showing a compass plane in a configuration for working the outside curve of a a circle. Are most of these planes able to do both tasks equally well?

Using Christopher Schwarz' philosophy of "Coarse, Medium and Fine", where would a compass plane fit into this?

Curved stock has to be planed in both directions for the reason you noted. A compass plane does not obviate the need to do so. They work great. I have a Record 020 and I think it actually works 'better' for me on the outside radius.

IMO, these are used as finish planes that should be set for a fine cut, to be used after sawing out the curve very accurately.

[Sean Hughto]

I love my 113.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3251/2826283523_af37a3aa77.jpg

It works about as well as any vintage Stanley bench plane on woods - i.e., it is not as finicky as some complex molding planes about the grain.

I've never had occassion to try it on end grain. I would imagine it would work ok - sort of imagine using a 3, 4, or 5 bench plane on end grain.

[Sean Hughto]

Oh, to give you an idea of where I use the thing, take a look at the arched stretcher at the bottom of this cabinet. I bandsawed the curve and the 113 had it smooth and nice a few minutes later:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2758/4183709850_96dafa7a13.jpg

The bead was added next with a 66.

[Callan Campbell]

I have the Stanley #20 and only got it this summer,so I can't speak to using it much yet. Aside from the great posts/pictures others have posted on this thread, see if you can borrow or read on-line the section on Compass planes in a book from Fine Woodworking called "Working with Handplanes". The article in the book is by Hank Gilpin, on Compass Planes. He's known for curves in his work,loves using Compass Planes to get the curves he wants and writes that compass planes are more of a shaping tool than a finishing tool, and compares them to a spokeshave. He also warns that it helps to have a fine sawn line or surface to follow with the plane as it doesn't compensate for a poorly bandsawn line/surface.
I can only add that it seems to go that way for me as well. I had to improve my bandsaw cutting to get what I wanted from my plane.
They're really cool looking too, like nothing else on your hand tool shelves. Always seems to draw attention from people wanting to know "what the heck is that tool"?.

[Jim Koepke]

There is a little that I posted on using a #113 in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=121761

As stated, the plane works best when planing "downhill" on the grain, not into the grain. Same with the end grain. The piece being worked will most likely have to be attacked from at least four different directions.

The pieces of mine made with the #113 came out smooth enough to not require sanding.

For me, round or elliptical work would be a pain without the circle plane.

jim

[Greg Lucas]

While we are on the subject of compass planes... I have a #113 type 1 and according to the type studies, it has a two part screw to attach the cap iron to the iron. I'd love purchase a pair of these but that has been an elusive goal so far. I'd be almost as happy to just see a pic of what it is I'm looking for. Presently, my type one has what looks like a small version of the screw that is used for most other Stanley's. Anyone have a complete type one and is willing to take a few quick pics?