? about spray lacquer on ornaments

[Brian Effinger]

I am making some last minute ornaments, and I'll be spraying gloss lacquer on them. Some of the ornaments are open grained wood, so I was going to spray on sanding sealer first to fill in the pores and make it smooth. Should I do this before I assemble the individual components of the ornament? And if I do it before assembly, do I sand the sealer on the lathe or off? And one more, if you'll bear with me. What grit sandpaper do I start with?

Thanks for your help, I really appreciate it. Lacquer is new to me.

Brian

[Richard Madison]

Brian,
I usually wipe on one or two coats of sanding sealer on the lathe, and may sand lightly with 320 before spraying the finish coats. Usually spray finish coats off lathe, using a home made turntable that is rotated by hand. Details you asked about may depend upon the shape/style of your ornaments. Could you show us a picture?

[Brian Effinger]

Here are two that I have made. The globe ornament was my first one, and is mahogany and maple. I sprayed on 4 or 5 coats of lacquer, sanded in between some of the coats with 0000 steel wool. This is just a practice piece, but I didn't like the fact that the finish is bumpy on the end grain of the mahogany.

[Richard Madison]

No need to "sand" between lacquer coats for purpose of providing "grip" for the next coat (unlike some varnishes), as each coat melts into the previous layer. However if you have a bumpy surface after building 4 or 5 coats, that is the time to sand it smooth and level with 0000 or maybe 320. Then spray a couple very careful finish coats. It often takes more coats on end grain areas to fill and bridge any open grain. Note this is for ornaments. The process would be somewhat more elaborate if you were going for gallery quality finish on a large piece.

[John Keeton]

Hey, Brian - neat ornaments!!! On the ones I did (no mahogany, but oak, walnut, cherry and maple) I used a couple of coats of shellac on the lathe, buffed between (carefully!!) with 0000, or an abrasive pad. Don't let the steel wool touch itself - IT WILL WRAP AROUND THE ORNAMENT IN A HEARTBEAT!!!!

Then I burnished them with some shavings on the lathe. Sprayed a couple of coats of lacquer, with 0000 between just to knock down any nibs. I ended up with decent grain fill - even on the oak. I could still see some grain - but, not much.

Quick finish.

[Brian Effinger]

Thanks for the tips Richard & John.

I hadn't thought of using shellac. I forgot everything sticks to shellac. And how do you know about the steel wool wrapping around the ornament, John? ;)

[Bernie Weishapl]

I also use shellac on my ornaments while on the lathe and then buff with a synthetic wool. Then spray on lacquer.

[Richard Madison]

Haven't used shellac since I was a cub scout way back in the last century. Bernie, does it work well as a grain filler?

[John Keeton]

And how do you know about the steel wool wrapping around the ornament, John? ;)Uhhhhh...... well, let's just leave at "I'm pretty sure that can happen!!";)

I can do some stupid stuff, but I learn very quickly!

[Jim Underwood]

No need to "sand" between lacquer coats for purpose of providing "grip" for the next coat (unlike some varnishes), as each coat melts into the previous layer.


I would say that generally this is true... but I like insurance. If the lacquer is only a few hours old, it's still curing, so not so much need to scuff between coats.

If you lightly scuff with a 320 or so, it's not going to hurt anything, and I think it does tend to bite in a bit better.

However, if it's a month old, I'd definitely scuff it. I've had lacquer peel back off if it's sprayed over well cured lacquer.

[John Keeton]

However, if it's a month old, I'd definitely scuff it. I've had lacquer peel back off if it's sprayed over well cured lacquer.Jim, I agree with you, and I have often wondered if the lack of adhesion is due more to being handled, oxidation, etc. In any event, I nearly always scuff it - seem to get a better surface by doing that, too.

[Richard Madison]

Jim & John,
If "scuffing" the surface provides better adhesion, it is probably because you are cleaning extraneous material from the surface, not because you are providing mechanical grip.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Haven't used shellac since I was a cub scout way back in the last century. Bernie, does it work well as a grain filler?

Richard not as much as sanding sealer does but what I found is that a couple of coats the lacquer does not soak in spots as much as if you spray bare wood. It gives me a more even coat.

On scuffing. I don't scuff unless the lacquer has cured for say 48 to 72 hrs. I find if I spray coats from 1/2 to 1 hr apart it is not need IMHO. I have never had lacquer peel because I didn't scuff it including spraying it on f..tw...k.

[Richard Madison]

Thanks Bernie.

[Jim Underwood]

I just know from experience having to strip doors and cabinets (for various reasons) that if the coat of lacquer is still "green" (anything prior to 72 hours), that lacquer thinner takes it off a lot easier than if it's been cured for a couple months....

So I'm gonna scuff it, especially if it's an old coat.

[Brian Effinger]

Well, I've put a few coats of the rattle can lacquer on them, and one thing I noticed (other than that smell) was the finish was coming out kind of powdery. I'm wondering if I'm putting on too light of a coat and I should lay it on a little thicker. Or maybe I should knock it back a little with steel wool and then add one more coat.

What do you guys think?

[John Keeton]

Brian, if I spray a light coat, it is a rougher finish. It takes a little practice, but I spray a good wet coat, but stop just short of a run - most of the time!:o Let's just say I am better at it now than the first couple of ornaments!:D

[Brian Effinger]

Thanks for the info John. I'm going down to the shop now to get a little more practice.