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View Full Version : State-Shaped Acrylics - Recommendations?



Scott Balboa
12-22-2009, 2:06 PM
A couple years ago I recall ordering state-shaped acrylics that were simple and inexpensive, but for the life of me I can't remember who I went through! It was at another job so I don't have a way of looking back...

All I can remember is that they were clear acrylic, approximately 1/4"-1/2" thick, simple in design (no beveling of any kind - just straight-cut like you vectored the shape yourself and polished the cut edges), and could weld to an acrylic base for desk-top display.

I have no access to flame polishing acrylic so would prefer to order these pre-fab and just engrave them. Does anyone have a supplier they can recommend or do these ring any bells?

Scott Balboa
12-22-2009, 7:04 PM
:eek: Another post with no replies? I think I'm setting a record around here!

Gary Hair
12-22-2009, 8:10 PM
Scott,
I would make them myself if I needed them in 1/4", even 3/8". I have a site to download the vector files and my laser can easily cut up to 3/8".

Gary

Bob Davis
12-23-2009, 12:07 AM
I'm with Gary. Easy, quick and cheap to cut from 8 or 10mm clear acrylic, no delivery fees, easily scaled up or down, a small error in the engraving (it's happened to me once or twice...) is not a drama. Just easier all round.

Dave Russell Smith
12-23-2009, 12:11 AM
A couple years ago I recall ordering state-shaped acrylics that were simple and inexpensive, but for the life of me I can't remember who I went through! It was at another job so I don't have a way of looking back...

All I can remember is that they were clear acrylic, approximately 1/4"-1/2" thick, simple in design (no beveling of any kind - just straight-cut like you vectored the shape yourself and polished the cut edges), and could weld to an acrylic base for desk-top display.

I have no access to flame polishing acrylic so would prefer to order these pre-fab and just engrave them. Does anyone have a supplier they can recommend or do these ring any bells?

Which state do you need to have ??

James Stokes
12-23-2009, 12:53 AM
jds USED TO SELL them, not sure if they still do or not

Gary and Jessica Houghton
12-23-2009, 3:28 AM
I know PDU has some Texas state acrylics.

Scott Balboa
12-23-2009, 12:34 PM
If I were to vector a state shape...say out of 1/4" cast acrylic, I would have those small ribbed-looking edges where the laser cut it. On our laser it would take a few passes to cut 1/4" without too big a flame. I have no flame polisher so I'm guessing the vectored edges wouldn't be truly FLAT surface, so welding that edge to an acrylic base would be challenging. This is why I'm not thinking about doing it myself. I know with prefab acrylic awards the bottom edge is usually flat, polished, and easy to weld to another flat acrylic piece.

Gary & Jessica: Thank you, I have seen those in the PDU catalog and we are mostly looking for Oregon-shaped.

Jeff Belany
12-23-2009, 2:22 PM
The older Corel (for sure v8) had a section of maps and had all the states. Don't see it in X4. I could get it tomorrow, I have v8 at home.

Jeff

James Stokes
12-23-2009, 3:39 PM
If you want it flat get some wet or dry sand paper start with 400 grit then 600 then 1200 and do a final polish with 4000 grit.

Scott Balboa
12-23-2009, 5:49 PM
Even if I sand, isn't my edge still going to be "hazy", and not clear? 99% of all the acrylics I've engraved have a clear acrylic base with clear top-piece, and if welded with good acrylic solvent they appear to be one solid CLEAR acrylic structure. I guess that's the look I'm preferring over all others.... as I think it is the cleanest, most "executive" look.

James Stokes
12-23-2009, 6:56 PM
If you do the final sanding with 4000 grit paper it will be perfectly clear. I have had to do it mor than once. I have engraved acrylic .125 deep and had to sand it down. Lused to have a customer that used the acrylic piramids I engraved them 3 years in a row and they gave me wrong information all 3 years. The fourth year I refused to do them any more.

Gary Hair
12-23-2009, 8:41 PM
Scott,
The acrylic adhesive will also hide some of the frosted look you get from sanding, you may not need a perfectly polished edge to get a clear finish. The slightly rough edge will also help to eliminate bubbles since they have somewhere to go and it also lets the adhesive wick a little better.

Try it out with a scrap and see what happens, I think you'll be surprised.

Gary

Joe Hayes
12-23-2009, 10:30 PM
Scott - If you don't want to cut them yourself or if you prefer a thicker acrylic than you can cut, I would suggest JBobs in Texas.
www.jbobs.net I had them do a group of IL state shapes and they did a fantastic job. One went to our former Governor who is probably going to jail.:eek: Think he will get to take it with him?:rolleyes:

Bill Gailey
12-24-2009, 3:55 PM
I can cut any shape up to 1/2 inch thick. Let me know if you need them and I will gladly do these for you.

Dan Hintz
12-24-2009, 6:13 PM
Scott,

Even if you don't have a proper flame polisher, nothing says you can't use a micro torch. $20 at Home Depot, stocked in the propane torch aisle. Looks like a hobby torch and will have a small enough flame to not burn the acrylic if you move at a decent pace.

Bob Davis
12-27-2009, 11:26 AM
In my experience the flat bottom that is attached to a base is best without a good finish.
Ive just done about 150 acrylic shapes in 8mm clear that have been attached to 20mm clear acrylic bases. I touched-up each flat attachment area on a 60 grit belt sander to ensure that it was square and had a nice coarse finish. This allows the solvent glue to form a clear bonded area on each piece. The coarse finish draws the solvent completely into the joint using capillary action, whereas a smooth edge leaves plenty of voids and air pockets.

David Takes
12-28-2009, 1:22 AM
Bob,

Don't you get crazing with a coarse finish like that? I personally have been using a UV-curable glue to eliminate the unsightly adhesion that is often achieved with solvent-type adhesives. The UV-curable glues will not work with acrylic substrates that contain UV inhibitors, so it isn't a solution for all materials. I use it any time I can because it produces a nearly invisible bond.

Bob Davis
12-29-2009, 1:25 AM
Hi David,
Been doing it this way for ages and I've never had a problem with crazing. I don't know whether there is more stress in the edge of a laser-cut piece or one that has been abraided, but I suspect it is actually lower in an abraided piece. Seems to be very little heat produced on the sander while a fresh piece out of the laser is still quite warm.
Occasionally I've also used the sander on the flat of a manufacturers piece and the results have always been good.
It's my understanding that any piece of acrylic cut with a laser will have an edge that is slightly out of square due to the beam profile, so squaring the edge will be necessary to avoid the piece leaning one way or the other.
If you've got the necessary gear I suggest you give it a try. I don't think you will be disappointed.
Bob

Scott Balboa
12-29-2009, 2:51 PM
Thank you everyone for your replies... I have lots of great info to go on now as a result. Hope everyone had a Merry Christmas!