Pen-turning skew?

[James Carmichael]

What's a good skew chisel for pen-turning, something under $50??

[Chris Stolicky]

My go to choices are either my 1/2" or 3/4" Sorby oval skews.

They tend be in that price range, sometime less on sale.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

James,

I use my Robert Larson 3/4" straight skew.

Any skew will work. If you use a rectangular skew, grind the corners round on the short point side so it will slide on the tool rest without catching.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Check out Penn State Industries skews. I still use the 2 I have.

[Thom Sturgill]

Packard Woodworks sells a 'Rolled Edge' skew in various sizes either M1 or M2 steel - I think they are Hamlet tools, but under their brand. No relation - just a satisfied customer.

[Rob Young]

A good sharp one. If you can sharpen the skew and the steel will hold and edge, the exact brand isn't important.

I have two inexpensive ones that came in a set from Harbor Freight (yes Harbor Freight). The steel is pretty good, holds and edge well and hones nicely. Got a little bit lucky as we all know the HF quality control is somewhat lacking.

They are the flat sided type and pretty rough on the edges so they got a little grinding and sanding to ease the edges before I knew that was what I was supposed to do anyway! :)

Since then I've seen and handled some nicer ones and the Sorby brand and Benjamin's Best (PSI) seem nice. The PSI house brand looks like a good deal for the money.

My only remaining complaint is the handle shape on the Harbor Freight (Winsor Design) tools. Gee, wonder what I could do about that...

[Harry Goodwin]

I am in exactly the same case. I have a PSI oval skew that came with set of three tools designated for pen work. I really like all of them for general work and the skew I find easier than any of my tools from others. I have larger skews and they take more practice as before mentioned and more careful control. Not that all skews don't demand more skill than other tools. Harry

[Mark Hix]

my favorite for pens is one from a set I got at woodcraft. I have other, more expensive ones but this one works fine.

[Dave Rudy]

+1 for sharp. That is critical.


There are lots of skews. Brand makes little difference unless you want to move into harder steels than M2. In this case, cheaper is probably better.

3/4 inch is probably best for pens, although some use 1.5 inch without problem.

Until you get the hang of it, I would use a conventional skew. Oval skews are extremely hard to sharpen correctly because they rock on the platform. I far prefer a normal square skew. You can round the back (side) edge on the grinder or buy it that way. If you decide you want to try curved, just grind a curve into it.

I would also practice a fair amount with the tool until you get the hang of it. THere are many good videos out there to help you: Alan Lacer, Alan Batty, Mike Darlow (thorough but dry).

If you just pick up a skew and start using it without some orientation, you're liable to get some catches and maybe get discouraged. It is a fantastic tool once you know how to use it.

One of the main points for me is that you have to start sitting on the bevel, with the cutting edge off the wood, then bring the handle up slowly just until the tool engages. If you go slower, you quickly move from cutting to scraping.

HTH

[Bob Bergstrom]

I make mine from old planner blades. They are great high speed steel and hold an edge very well. Most are of nominal size by the time they are discarded. They don't have much weight, but are awesome for detail work and the long point can get into very small spaces.