Cigar shave

[Jeff Wittrock]

Hello all,

I am working on a chair where I have quite a few "fared" joints where the slats that make up the back join to the back legs.

So far, I have just been using a rasp to shape these, but wondered how well a cigar spoke shave like the miller falls #1 would work. I have never used one, but I imagine working on a fairly small inside radius is just the kind of situation these were designed for.

I have also been working these inside corners with a small knife, but sadly my skills with the blade still need some work. I can do a decent job, but the surface still needs some work afterwords.

Are there still some small shaves around that can work well on a small inside radius (~1/2" or so)? I've looked at some original Miller Falls #1s on the bay, but they seem to go for a bit of change. Maybe I just need to look around more often.

Thanks,

Jeff

[lowell holmes]

Traditional Woodworker has a cigar shave. I don't have one, but I've thoght about getting one. I do have one of their wooden shaves and I value it. It's a good tool.

I have the Lee Valley rosewood shaves and I use the small one for small radius shaving. It will handle a 1/2" radius.

[Brian Ashton]

I've got the modern version of the Miller falls. Had it for about 6 or so years. It's one of those tools that doesn't see the light of day much but you're happy you have it when that little job comes along. Bit of a learning curve to it and it does an inside radious of about 1 inch.

[Eric Brown]

http://www.woodjoytools.com/page1/page1.html Brass Circular

Their info:

The inside curves in areas such as chair seats and legs present a well known challenge to woodworkers. With its ability to slice wood with a rolling action, this spokeshave excels in shaving these difficult areas. The 5/8” round body and a 2” A2 steel low angle blade allow the woodworker to change the angle of cut in an instant and with exact control. Handsome maple handles compliment a precision machined brass body. The 5/32 “thick blade is 25% thicker than other blades in the market place. The Woodjoy blade depth adjustment system, located at the top of the tool is an exclusive part of our spokeshave product line.

Looks good to me.
Eric

[Mike Brady]

I have a Millers Falls #1 cigar shave. They are nicely made and very effective tools, but it took me a long time to get the sharpening geometry right. The cutter is very difficult to hold while honing and requires a main and back bevel to cut properly. I double stick tape the cutter to a section of dowel and use sandpaper on a granite plate as the sharpening medium.

[Mike Brady]

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee300/finefettle/Augustsale012.jpg

[Jeff Wittrock]

Thanks all for the info and links.

-Jeff

[Ken Martin]

Jeff,
I have a couple of the #1's and like them. They won't fit your 1/2" request but are close at 3/4" with the blade. I found these sharpening instructions on the web they might help

http://www.shavings.net/images/C_ShaveSM.gif

Ken

[harry strasil]

Hdwe stores carry spring steel motor shaft adapters with an open slot for the keyway, you might try sharpeing on of the edges and then inserting a wood handle in one side to make a special shave for your purpose, they come in various sizes starting at 1/4 ID as I recall, you would need to leave one end open to remove shavings.

[Don C Peterson]

I remember a post about a float/shave that someone made from a pencil sharpener.

I can't seem to find the post right now though...

[Don C Peterson]

Here's that post: http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=117150

[harry strasil]

makes me wonder if an end mill would work.

[Eric Brown]

I once saw where some people were using the guts out of rotary pencil grinders like a small round shave. Someday I plan on making one to try.

Eric

[Jeff Wittrock]

Thanks again all for the suggestions.

Don, thanks for the link to that thread with the pencil sharpener. I recalled looking at that some time ago.

I have been playing around with making some very narrow knives to get into tight spots and so far this seems to work best. Last night I started work on something of a miniature draw knife with a very narrow blade and a somewhat rounded bevel on one side. I think this might let me work on tighter corners than a spoke shave.

As a side note, I didn't have any O1 or A2 steel laying around that I could use to make my knives or the draw knife. I did have some cheap, pretty much worthless harbor freight chisels, so I sacrificed these so I could play around. The steel used in these is of unknown lineage, but I was just playing around anyway so didn't worry much about it.

I know less than nothing about how to properly harden or temper steel, but just heated my first attempt at a knife up with a propane torch until it was cherry red and quenched in some used motor oil. At this point I didn't even bother tempering it.

I sharpened it using scary sharp method with wet/dry paper and a piece of granite tile. It sharpened up well. I thought the first time I tried using it on the inside radius that the edge would just roll over, but to my surprise, it is holding up real well. This is just on red oak, but for better or worse this particular oak that I am using is harder to work with than what I am used to seeing.

I'll let you all know how the mini draw knife works out. If it works out O.K. and isn't too ugly, I might even post a picture :).

-Jeff

[Jeff Wittrock]

Well, I finished the little drawknife, and I have to say it has helped me with these inside curves. Probably not as good as a spokeshave, but definitely easier than a one handed knife.

I posted pictures here. (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=127896)

-Jeff