filling in cracks

[curtis rosche]

for filling in cracks in peices, which is better, a runny 2 part slow drying epoxy, or CA glue? if CA glue is better, where is the cheapest place to get it in large amounts?
also, for cracks, how do you "clean them out" and get the little peices out, before filling them in?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Curtis,

I'm a epoxy guy myself. You can thin epoxy with denatured alcohol and it will pour into thin cracks. I typically mix the expoxy and add crushed instant coffee crystals to it to darken the mix. Then I use popsickel sticks my wife buys at Walmart to spoon it into cracks.

I let it set over night and then turn.

[Dennis Ford]

I prefer epoxy for filling cracks, often mixed with graphite for a black color.

[curtis rosche]

i was gonna use an old coffe bean grinder and grind up some charcoal from a burned log.
another question. i have already rough turned the peice, and where the crack is the edge of it has "broken off" and there are pieces that are in the crack but still attached, what should i do with them?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Curtis I use sanding dust mixed with epoxy to fill cracks. I use a small screwdriver to force the epoxy in the crack. If there are pieces in there that are still attached just leave them. The epoxy will take care of them. If I need thin epoxy I mix DNA with the epoxy till it is the consistancy of milk and pour it in. When I do that the DNA will soak into the wood take some epoxy with it giving it a stronger bond.

[Nathan Hawkes]

Curtis, I'm impatient, so I use CA glue. I usually use the compressor to blow out any debris lodged in the crack. Depending on the location of the crack, and whether or not its going to span the entire thickness of the bowl, I use clear CA to fill a portion of it first. I initially use thin or medium thin to saturate the crack to ensure that it doesn't open up more if the wood moves a lot as it dries. Then, I use accelerator, then medium, then thick, with accelerator in between. I tried epoxy a few times and found even when thinning it out I had trouble with small cracks getting air bubbles trapped inside. If the crack spans the entire rim, I use all black CA after the initial saturating soak with super thin CA. Black is a fair amount more expensive than clear, hence the clear to fill the crack if it is possible. If the crack is really wide, I use wood dust and chips to fill it after the initial soak with thin, leaving just enough room to top it off with black CA glue to hide the chips. I personally use STARBOND CA glue, which is a bit more expensive than some other brands, but I think it works better. All CA is NOT created equal. It seems to have a longer shelf life in the bottle than some other brands that I've used, and is available in big bottles if you use a lot of it. (I do).

[Steve Schlumpf]

Curtis - I have used both CA and 2 part epoxy for cracks and determine which to use by the size of the area to be filled. Big areas get the epoxy and thin cracks get the CA. I have also experimented with all sorts of fillers and they all work - just depends on what color(s) you are after.

Don't worry about anything still in the crack as the CA/epoxy will grab onto it and make it part of the fill. If the edges of the crack are not to your liking - sand, file or dremel to get the profile you want.

One thing to remember, when using thinned anything - make sure you tape up one side of the crack (like the inside of the bowl) so your glue won't just run out the other side. Makes a heck of a mess and take a lot of time to clean up! DAMHIKT!!

[Anthony Anderson]

Epoxy. Make sure it is high quality clear, so it doesn't yellow as it ages.

Good Luck, Bill

[Hilel Salomon]

Curtis,

I use both CA and epoxy depending on the nature of the cracks or holes. If the piece is already marked by spalting or has ambrosia tracks, I use very cheap very finely ground coffee and epoxy. At Walmart, they sell two different brands of hispanic espresso coffee (something like 2 dollars a brick) and one of those lasts several years. If you don't want dark markings, then sawdust and either CA or epoxy will do.
Luck, Hilel.

[curtis rosche]

is there anything else to use to thin the epoxy other than DNA?

[Dave Ogren]

Curtis,

I have only used the thin CA with sanding dust. Works great. I bought a 16 oz. CA and a 4 oz. Debonder delivered from Texas for under $25.00
I can look up the name if you need it. Make sure you also buy the debonder, just in case you get stuck to something.
He has been mentioned on this forum a lot of times.
I turn a lot of bowls from Hickory (more that 60 since July) they have a lot of knot in them, after turning I gue all of the knots in place before they go into the LDD bath.

Good luck,

Dave

[Allen Neighbors]

Curtis, I use regular thin CA (Loctite, from Walmart) for thin cracks, and epoxy for wider cracks and large voids.
BUT FIRST: Before I put on either CA or epoxy, I apply a lacquer wash (65% thinner/35% Lacquer), and spin it dry with an old tee shirt rag. The wash helps to keep the glue from staining the surrounding wood, which leaves ugly markings.
After applying the CA, I use crushed turquoise or powdered cheap coffee to do the filling with. I powder regular grind coffee in a Vita-mix Blender.
Hope this helps, too.

[Denis Puland]

I believe Acetone is an aceptable (Preferred ??? ) thining agent for epoxy.

Denis


is there anything else to use to thin the epoxy other than DNA?