Smidge of Advice. Support for table saw Extension?

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Ok.. I've taken off the right hand side granite extension off my R4511 and have built an oak frame measuring 27" x 27" that is currently bolted in it's place.

Due to the split rail I'm not getting the support that I'd have hoped for and am concerned that the end will slump once the 3/4" top and router are on it.

What do you think the best way to add support to it would be?

Also, does anyone have any idea where I can get those big holkin' tapered head screws that they use to attach the front rail iron to the top? I'll need a longer one, if not two, to attach the extension to the front of the saw.

Back can be bolts.

I plan on adding a short angle iron section to support the table at the front to the full length of the rail, supported by the rail itself.. Since it's got several mounting points, should not have an issue with that.

DOWN SIDE of having the router extension on the right with this saw? Can no longer swing the door open, I'd think... So I'll have to do a couple quick plug clips on either side to hold it in place.

Anyway... What do you think I should do for support? I'd LIKE to have it adjustable so that I can fine tune it incase it drops at the end and needs brought up beyond my original mounting points.

[Lee Bidwell]

I can't really offer any suggestions other than to say that I'm interested in this too. I've been mulling over the idea of replacing the whole front angle iron and square tube with longer versions to get more rip capacity and make room for a router, but I haven't actually gone looking for the materials yet. Please keep us updated on what you decide to do. Thanks,

Lee

[Chip Lindley]

As for the bolts, ask for flat-head stove bolts at your hardware store. Probably 5/16 x 18. These come with slotted or phillips head.

Or, go fancy-schmancy with flat-head cap screws (tightened with allen wrench) These are hardened with a fine thread, 5/16 x 24.

[Chip Lindley]

Given your circumstances, I see your best option for shoring up your new router extension as building a mobile stand same size as the footprint of the saw. Legs can be added at the outboard end for solid support. Since the motor is on the same side, the saw may be liable to tip on in that direction, even with heavy one-piece fence rails added. Space below the router could be utilized for storage with a drawer unit resting on the frame. Just my .02! Good Luck.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Chip: Thanks.. Those should do just fine.. Q though.. For drilling out the holes, what would you suggest using to countersink the angle iron?

Lee: The angle iron shouldn't be hard to find, at 2.5 x 2.5".. My only concern for that is that I would not drill and countersink the factory holes right and it wouldn't fit on the top.. ;)

Really though, I'd seen one person replace the rails on the front/back and the fence tube already, so it is doable.

For right now though I just wanna use a short section of angle iron to extend things. The tube should support it fine.

[Scott Hildenbrand]

Checkin' to see if anyone else has any advice on this?

Going to attach from the table at an angle down to the side of the saw body.. Right in the way of the door. :)

Ah well.. Once I get a GOOD DC I shouldn't need to open it often at all.