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Bryce Adams
12-18-2009, 7:00 AM
I came into some Christmas money from work and I've decided to buy a LN adjustable mouth block plane. It seems like a versatile approach would be a low angle plane with a couple of blades - one ground at 25 degrees for end grain work and another ground at 35 degrees for more general use.

Other than the inconvenience of swapping blades instead of picking up another plane, is there any compelling reason to buy both low angle and standard angle planes?

Prashun Patel
12-18-2009, 8:32 AM
IMHO, no. I have no use for a standard angle block plane. I have more use for smaller planes/chisel planes/rabbet planes to get into tight spots, but the angle's never been an issue. I rehabbed a standard angle block plane, and almost always find that the low angle or a larger plane fits the situation better.

In fact, I suggest you don't even bother with the 35 deg honed blade.

If you get into low angle bench planes - like smoothers, jacks, and jointers, then the angle plays a much larger role, but for a LA block, the 25 will do for almost anything - or has for me at least.

Rick Erickson
12-18-2009, 9:20 AM
Shawn is right on. Start with the LA and take it from there. My guess is you won't be back to order the other blade. Spend your money on another tool :)

Kent A Bathurst
12-18-2009, 9:35 AM
.....is there any compelling reason to buy both low angle and standard angle planes?

Yeah - here's "compelling" for you :D - get the standard angle adj mouth block and also the rabbet block. The rabbet block is LA (but no adj mouth - NBD, IMO). I've been surprised at how often I grab the rabbet for quick work when I don't want/need to fool with the large shoulder plane.

And this way, you've got twice as many planes, which is where you are heading anyway once you start buying LN, I have found out. Got the first one, then suddenly I had two. So I've got two, then suddenly there were four. And then.......

David Christopher
12-18-2009, 9:38 AM
Shawn, I have a LN 60 1/2 and have never thought of getting another blade. like others have said its done every task that I have ask it to do

Prashun Patel
12-18-2009, 10:22 AM
Got the first one, then suddenly I had two. So I've got two, then suddenly there were four. And then.......

Those are called rabbit planes.

Kent A Bathurst
12-18-2009, 11:32 AM
Those are called rabbit planes.

No kidding!!

I also have rabbit clamps and rabbit Forrest TS blades and rabbit chisels.

I need to get some help.........

Bryce Adams
12-18-2009, 12:49 PM
I currently have a Stanley low angle block plane that works for end grain, but I've had problems with long grain chamfering where the grain changes directions and I get tearout. I was thinking that a setup with a higher cutting angle would help in those changing grain situations.

Prashun Patel
12-18-2009, 1:27 PM
I currently have a Stanley low angle block plane that works for end grain, but I've had problems with long grain chamfering where the grain changes directions and I get tearout. I was thinking that a setup with a higher cutting angle would help in those changing grain situations.

A HIGH angle blade can act like a scraper, and help with tearout, but I usually hear about that with bench planes that have a frog, or where you can get yr effective cutting angle up into the 50deg range.

I get more tearout with my standard angle than with my low angle.

In my short time with planes, I find that blade SHARPNESS accounts for about 90-95% of my success. Are you good in that department?

I assume you've tried taking a lighter cut on the chamfer?

Zach England
12-18-2009, 1:52 PM
Yeah - here's "compelling" for you :D - get the standard angle adj mouth block and also the rabbet block. The rabbet block is LA (but no adj mouth - NBD, IMO). I've been surprised at how often I grab the rabbet for quick work when I don't want/need to fool with the large shoulder plane.

And this way, you've got twice as many planes, which is where you are heading anyway once you start buying LN, I have found out. Got the first one, then suddenly I had two. So I've got two, then suddenly there were four. And then.......

I have both because it allows me to use a toothed blade in one and a standard blade in the other. I have a standard angle LN that is my "regular" block plane and a veritas low angle with a toothed blade that I use for nasty stuff. I will sometimes put a regular blade in the Veritas, too.

Sam Takeuchi
12-18-2009, 2:06 PM
It doesn't have to be a bench plane type to have high angle. Good example is LN and LV low angle planes. It really doesn't matter if there is a frog or large or small. What matters is at what angle blade is presented on the stock.

Sharp blade is a basic requirement in any situation, but it can't really overcome a lot of situation on its own. No matter how sharp blades are, some wood won't behave nicely. Relying on sharp blades on a standard angle bench plane to overcome difficult grain can be frustrating as at the first moment blade becomes anything but freshly sharpened, it'll start causing tear out. On the other hand, high cutting angle can be more tolerating of blade dullness, it'll still cut without tear out even if the blade is somewhat dull. It'll be harder to push, however.

A block plane can be used as an effective small high angle smoother with high angle blade. Hold it like a small wooden plane, you can exert quit a bit of force from behind. I don't know how comfortable it'd be with LN or LV block planes, at least Stanley #60+ low angle block plane lever cap has no wheel to get in the way. Out of all planes I have, my low angle block plane (Stanley #60) is the most nimble and useful plane I have for that reason.

Bryce Adams
12-18-2009, 2:58 PM
A HIGH angle blade can act like a scraper, and help with tearout, but I usually hear about that with bench planes that have a frog, or where you can get yr effective cutting angle up into the 50deg range.

I get more tearout with my standard angle than with my low angle.

In my short time with planes, I find that blade SHARPNESS accounts for about 90-95% of my success. Are you good in that department?

I assume you've tried taking a lighter cut on the chamfer?

I'm getting more proficient at sharpening all the time, but there's always room for improvement. Good point on the lighter cut. I've had good results on a chamfer with a low angle plane when I can go with the grain, but it seems I often find reversing grain direction.

Jim Koepke
12-18-2009, 3:03 PM
I am another vote on the Low Angle block plane. I have five of them and am looking for at least one more. I have two of the standard angle block planes that are seldom used.

The gang of five are two #65 types and three #60 types. Four of them see regular use. The #65-1/2 is set up for shooting end grain. The #65 is set up for general trimming. One of the #60s is set up for a very fine cut and the other for a bit heavier cut. The last #60 is seldom used as it is not as good as the others and sits in a drawer most of the time with the #9-1/2 and the #18.

I am looking for an earlier model of the #60/#60-1/2. I like the size of the #60. The #65 is a bit wider which is wanted for a shooting board plane.

If you have a chance to try the different sizes of the Low Angle Block Planes it could go a long way toward satisfaction of use in the future.

The new LV Veritas Low Angle Blocks really look nice.

For more information on block planes you may want to look at these two threads linked below. Of course, you will not likely need to do any fettling on a new LN or LV plane, but knowledge should never hurt, unless it is too little and becomes dangerous.

Fettling Block planes:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=1246005#post1246005

Block plane short type comparison:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?referrerid=5960&t=123591

jim

Michael O'Sullivan
12-19-2009, 3:03 PM
Here is an area where ebay can be really useful. There are innumerable block planes in good shape available for very little money (i.e. less than $20). You can pick up a few, and set them for different tasks. For example, I keep my LN 60.5 set for very thin shavings for use on end grain. I have a MF 16 set for more "medium" cuts, and a Stanley 9.5 set for rougher work. Plus, they are small. so they take up very little room.

John Keeton
12-19-2009, 4:32 PM
Bryce, you may want to consider the LV low angle block for sale in the Classified forum. It has an extra blade, and the tote and knob accessories, as well. No affiliation, but it looks to be a good deal, and the seller is first rate, having dealt with him before. I have owned that exact same setup, and it functions very well. Just a thought.

Jack Camillo
12-19-2009, 8:24 PM
Bryce, you may want to consider the LV low angle block for sale in the Classified forum. It has an extra blade, and the tote and knob accessories, as well. No affiliation, but it looks to be a good deal, and the seller is first rate, having dealt with him before. I have owned that exact same setup, and it functions very well. Just a thought.

+1
this is a very nice plane. And, you get more for your money.
But if you did the low angle LN block plane (that I also have), I agree that no other blade is necessary