How to identify a paring chisel

[Sean Evoy]

Hi Guys,
I'll try to make this question as specific as possible. I would like to get some paring chisels, but finances dictate a Smalser-like approach; find old ones and nurse them back to health. The problem I am having is determining whether a chisel is a paring chisel or just a long firmer. Any pointers to help ID them in the wild or from eBay photos would be really appreciated.

[Leif Hanson]

A true paring (as compared to a bench or firmer) chisel is *very* long and very thin... to the point of being almost flexible. It will never have a "hoop" on the top of the handle as they are not made to ever be struck with a mallet - and should look very much like this:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/prodimg/ws/big/WS-PACHISXX_big.gif

The longer Stanley 720 (same as 750, just longer) chisel isn't really a true paring chisel, though may have been marketed as one. It is too thick, and IIRC has a rawhide end - meaning it is beefy enough to handle a mallet and therefore is really just a long firmer or bench chisel. They are still nice chisels, though.

That's my thoughts on it, anyway...

[Dennis McDonaugh]

Lief pretty much covered it. I'd only add that there are not a lot of straight true paring chisels sold today. There are a few cranked neck paring chises sold and I think they are more versatile since you don't have to worry about the handle getting in the way when you using them.

[Sean Evoy]

Thanks Lief,
The modern paring chisels range from 13 to 15 inches in length. The problem I am having is that some of the older firmers seem to be that long too (like the 720s, but also a lot of the Pextos and Witherbys I see for sale online). To my untrained eye, it appears as though a firmer starts out thin, but becomes thick at the tang or socket end whereas the paring chisels seem to remain consistently thin along the length. I just want to make sure that this is true for older paring chisels as well.

In one of your tutorials, you mentioned that you have a couple of paring chisels that you never touch a mallet to. Did you go the modern chisel route, or did you find/rehab some older chisels?

[Sean Evoy]

Thanks Denis,
It's hard enough locating older paring chisels (maybe they were too delicate to survive or just not that popular around where I live). I'll keep the cranked handle point in mind, but I doubt I can afford to be that choosy.

[Leif Hanson]

I don't know much about the different manufacturer's offerings of paring chisels... I only have the 2 chisels that I think qualify as "paring" chisels - both are very, very old, I'd say between 100 and 150 years. I can't remember which tool maker they are from (or even if they are marked, for that matter), and both were part of a purchase off of ebay and were included with a gaggle of others and rehabbed (no handles).

Neither are very wide, either - I'd love to have more like them that are a bit wider - the one is easily my favorite, it's 3/8" wide or so and is thin for it's full length. Great for dovetails and getting into corners and the like. I don't have near enough chisels for my druthers.. and even fewer quality gouges.


There are three important things about a paring chisel to me:

Length is nice to get better control (it allows you that infinitely small adjustment of your attack angle).

How thick the blade is isn't quite as important as how thin it is at the business end, though I like the 'feel' from the thin blade on mine (you can feel how the end is cutting the wood, and apply more or less pressure to get your desired result). (edit - using paring chisels is a 2-handed affair - you use your second hand to guide the steel and to apply a downward pressure to the blade)

The last, and most important, is simply the bevel angle it is sharpened at, which is the biggest reason you can't take a mallet to it. I've got mine sharpened somewhere between 20 and 25 degrees - it takes a really good steel to hold an edge at that angle. But it cuts wood like butter.


It's actually pretty rare that I *need* to use one - 99 percent of the work I do is just as easily accomplished with a standard bench chisel. Every once in a while, though - it's nice to have. But not a *must* have - not yet (for me) anyway. I need to improve my skills quite a bit before I can claim that!

Leif

[Sean Evoy]

Lief,
That's exactly the info I'm looking for. Thanks. I'm in the same boat as you; I don't "need" paring chisels but that's never stopped me from buying a tool before :-) And besides, it's time I tried my hand at chisel rehabs. Right after I finish that coffin smoother, and redo the Krenov-style jointer in beech or white oak, and finish those marking knives ....

[Alan Turner]

I have a few older paring chisels, but my favorite is a TH Witherby 3/8". I have it sharpened at 20 degrees, and I do not use a microbevel. To me, the value of a paring chisel is that the length allows you to guide the chisel with your left hand at the front, your right hand at the rear, on the handle, and then to supply the power with the large muscles of your hip or mid-section. Using these larger muscles, with both hands giving guidance, permits very fine and accurate cuts. To me, at least, that the blade is thicker at the rear than at the business end is of no moment. I have a 1 1/4 and a 1 1/2" long chsel, which I have sharpened to the 20 degree bevel, which work really well also, when used as paring chisels. I think they are older Bucks Brothers, but cannot recall for sure. IN short, good metal, with length, are the key points. Well, that is one guy's views.
Alan