Rust

[Frank Dominski]

I know this topic has been beat to death on cast iron tops but I was at HD and saw a product called Krud Kutter for removing rust and to prevent it from returning. Has anyone tried it.
Thanks :confused:

[Carroll Courtney]

I haven't,but always looking for something better.Check it out and report back with the results and what you think.I have heard that evap-o-rust is good for removing but not to prevent it.----Carroll

[Neal Clayton]

best stuff i've found is boeshield. they have it at sears, or you can order it online from various places.

i use it in lieu of wax, and my tools last well past a year between coats, with daily use.

[Howard Miller]

I use Boeshield and here in Florida with recent heavy humidity, my table saw and jointer completely rusted on the top. Cleaned promptly with WD-40, then coated with thick coat of WD-40. I believe only real solution with our weather is use Boeshield and cover with a tarp or large plastic bag.

[george wilson]

WD 40 can leave a bad coating on metal which is very hard to remove. This according to Practical Machinist's forum. Years ago there was a big discussion about WD 40. Boeshield was also not well thought of by the members. I can't recall what the best product recommendation was. It was a non issue for me as my shop is climate controlled,and I don't store stuff outside.

[Howard Miller]

WD 40 can leave a bad coating on metal which is very hard to remove. This according to Practical Machinist's forum. Years ago there was a big discussion about WD 40. Boeshield was also not well thought of by the members. I can't recall what the best product recommendation was. It was a non issue for me as my shop is climate controlled,and I don't store stuff outside.

George,

Good info. The WD-40 is for short term - until this weekend. My plan is to remove the WD-40 and re-coat with Boeshield.

Please try to remember the best product :)- we all could benefit.

Howard

[Tim Livingston]

I put on the boeshield and then wipe it off, let it dry and then use paste wax like Johnsons. I had a leak upstairs from the kids playing it the bath tub and my table saw got soaked. When I found it a couple days later the water was still sitting there beaded up on top of the saw but no rust.

[John Harden]

I put on the boeshield and then wipe it off, let it dry and then use paste wax like Johnsons. I had a leak upstairs from the kids playing it the bath tub and my table saw got soaked. When I found it a couple days later the water was still sitting there beaded up on top of the saw but no rust.

+1 Boeshield is terrific when it comes to protecting against rust and corrosion, but folks need to follow the directions.

Light coat, then wipe it all off. Like you I follow it with a coat of paste wax to provide a slick surface. Boeshield by itself will not leave the slick surface that I want. Put on a thick coat of it or not wipe it off well and you can get a gummy surface.

Regards,

John

[Jason Hanko]

I put on the boeshield and then wipe it off, let it dry and then use paste wax like Johnsons.
This is my method too. I think I may go a lttle overboard with the Johnsons - I put on and buff out a thin coat probably every three weeks whether the tool has had a lot of use or not. Seems to be working so far tho, my shop isnt exactly climate controlled, and no rust yet.

[Adam Strong]

I use Boeshield and here in Florida with recent heavy humidity, my table saw and jointer completely rusted on the top. Cleaned promptly with WD-40, then coated with thick coat of WD-40. I believe only real solution with our weather is use Boeshield and cover with a tarp or large plastic bag.

Howard,
I fully understand the Florida issue. Putting a tarp over it could actually trap moisture and you'll have condensation rusting on your CI. My solution has been paste wax. It works VERY well with my tools in an uninsulated garage shop. I re-apply after a large project when cleaning the shop. Unless the tool is used and wax worn off, there is no need to re-apply. As stated above, the water will bead on the wax and therefore not rust. The trouble here in FL is the underside and internal CI surfaces that need a sealer applied.

[Peter Aeschliman]

I remove rust with WD40 and a scotchbrite pad. Clean it up with mineral spirits, then go over it with the SlipIt sliding compound. Has worked well so far.

I tried boeshield and TopSaver and neither really satisfied me.

I recently ordered some magnetic sheeting that I plan to cut to size for my TS, Planer, Jointer, and Mortiser tables. It was cheap too. It will just be part of my routine to cover my tools before leaving my shop.

I bought mine on ebay from this seller. It's in the mail right now.

http://cgi.ebay.com/10Ft-x-24-x-30mil-Magnetic-Sheet-Roll-Car-Sign-Magnet_W0QQitemZ360211439490QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_ DefaultDomain_0?hash=item53de465f82#ht_3496wt_1109

[Howard Miller]

I put on the boeshield and then wipe it off, let it dry and then use paste wax like Johnsons. I had a leak upstairs from the kids playing it the bath tub and my table saw got soaked. When I found it a couple days later the water was still sitting there beaded up on top of the saw but no rust.

Have not tried this, but I will this weekend. How long do you let the Boeshield dry before the wax is applied?

[Tim Livingston]

Have not tried this, but I will this weekend. How long do you let the Boeshield dry before the wax is applied?

I let it sit there for just minutes and then wipe off the fluid and then let it dry good, a day or so but I didn't wipe out the miter slots as well. I left those well coated because I knew I wouldn't get the wax in there as well. Then I coated it with SC Johnson wax and actually buffed it with a power buffer and then re-coated and did it again with the power buffer.

[Ken Shoemaker]

I just recently finished my new 22X24 shop. I had my tools in unheated storage for 1.5 years. Of course the jointer and bandsaw were covered in rust. However, I had placed a piece of hardboard, shiney face down, on the table saw and it was like the day I put it in there. NO CLEANING needed!!!!!

I would suggest, cutting a pattern the size of your tools and covering them if you'll be gone for a extended time or if you have very high humidity. I'd think it would be very easy to manage.

It's just a thought.... Ken

[Mike Black Milford, MI]

I know this topic has been beat to death on cast iron tops but I was at HD and saw a product called Krud Kutter for removing rust and to prevent it from returning. Has anyone tried it.
Thanks :confused:
I too would like to hear from those that have used Krud Kutter. You would think somebody had experience with it.

[Harold Burrell]

I just recently finished my new 22X24 shop. I had my tools in unheated storage for 1.5 years. Of course the jointer and bandsaw were covered in rust. However, I had placed a piece of hardboard, shiney face down, on the table saw and it was like the day I put it in there. NO CLEANING needed!!!!!

I would suggest, cutting a pattern the size of your tools and covering them if you'll be gone for a extended time or if you have very high humidity. I'd think it would be very easy to manage.

It's just a thought.... Ken

Hmmm...that is very interesting...

Thanks for that tip!

[Kyle Iwamoto]

In Hawaii, the rust capital of the Pacific, I also use the Boeshield. I will also agree that covering with a tarp may trap moisture. I cover my TS with a sheet of finsihed plywood. That way I can use it as workbench when not using it as a saw...... Wood won't trap or collect moisture. I cover the other stuff with old blankets, something that breathes.

About Krud Kutter, are you trying to clean your top? I got the Barkeepers friend tip here, and that works awesome to celan your top. I'm surprised no one mentioned it. I know nothing about that, but from the name, it sounds like a cleaner.

[george wilson]

Barkeeper's Friend has oxalic acid in it. I don't think I'd like to put it on cast iron. I think it is really for stainless steel. Anyone?

[Howard Miller]

I have used the Barkeepers in the past and it discolored the TS top. I first mixed with water, then another time mixed it with mineral spirits. Still discoloration with the mineral spirits.

[Myk Rian]

If you think the top is clean, use BKF again. I use it all the time. You have to use it enough to get into the pores.

[Greg Portland]

I had an unheated shop in Oregon for a number of years and the only product that even came close to working was Boeshield. Wax and WD-40 did a horrible job (rust within 24 hrs). Covering the tool surface (cardboard, blankets, wood, etc.) makes a significant improvement as well.

[Frank Dominski]

Living in So. Florida I have tried just about everything. WD 40, Topsaver, Corrosion Block, Boeshield and nothing seems to last very long. I never tried waxing over Boeshield so I will give that a try. I found an old can of Corrosion X and will give that a try. Guess I'll have to be the guinea pig and try Krud Kutter.:eek: Thanks for all the replys.

[Myk Rian]

When I wax my tops, I use a heat gun to melt it into the top, then I buff it.

[Adam Strong]

Living in So. Florida I have tried just about everything. WD 40, Topsaver, Corrosion Block, Boeshield and nothing seems to last very long. I never tried waxing over Boeshield so I will give that a try. I found an old can of Corrosion X and will give that a try. Guess I'll have to be the guinea pig and try Krud Kutter.:eek: Thanks for all the replys.

Surely you have read this before, but DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE WAX. Pick up a can of furniture paste wax, automotive waxes contain silicone which will affect whatever finish you use on the project. Good luck... living in the sunshine state is certainly hard on our CI tools.

[Michael Helms]

I've been forced (due to lack of space) to keep my TS and jointer outdoors under an awning in a very humid environment. My experience with plastic covers is that they trap moisture/condensation as others have said. The cool steel causes condensation even under a cover. Lately I've been draping the tops with old towels under the plastic which is in turn under a plywood panel to hold things down. Seems to limit condensation and rust pretty well. Of course the fences are removed and the TS blade retracted (the blade doesn't enjoy the protection of this scheme and probably should be removed. All the other parts [trunnion, arbor, cutter head, etc.] aren't protected much either).

[Stephen Saar]

Not sure if anyone else uses this, but I've been using Renaissance wax on all my machined surfaces. It makes everything very smooth, and seems to help with glue sticking and rust. You have to apply it every once in a while, but for machines that you use fairly regularly it seems to work fine. If you're going to store your machines for a long time, then I don't know of any solutions that will prevent rust long term, but the magnetic sheets or well surfaced wood seems like a good idea.

-Stephen